Timken BM500013. Just a heads up. No one, NO ONE will have this in stock unless it is on their physical shelf to ship to you. Timken will be receiving stock to start shipping to dealers online or storefront August 22 it the estimated date right now. FML.

 

Why not go with OEM? I bought this one and its perfect! Its only $109 shipped, Hub is $156 here. Get it now though because there is only one day left!

 

The Timkins are OEM bearings. Timkin is just a distributor. For a while, they were cheaper than sourcing the bearings from Nissan.

However thanks for that link. That's the cheapest I've seen the Nissans sell for. I just bought one!

4 left!


Gonna hold off on the hub. I might reuse the hub I pull off from the first side I do after I measure runout. If it's good, no use buying a new hub.

 

Ps...since it's 100 degrees out here in MA, I might wait til next Sunday to do one of the bad bearings. If not then I gotta wait til cooler weather. I'm just itching to dig into this. I've psyched myself up and am looking forward!

 

Ok, just to update...I bought one of the bearings getup kid linked.

Same thing as the timken...so I'm 100% certain now the Timkins are redistributed oem bearings...which are made by NTN


So, buy whichever one you can find cheaper as it's the same bearing...

Timken BM500013
OEM Nissan 40210-AL800

Same exact bearing for the front awd bearing. I'm sure the rear is the same deal. Only difference is timken rears are plentiful.

And yes...I still haven't done mine yet. Combination of two vacations and 100 degree heat has made me hold off. Ive been driving an '06 c230 sport the last month...so I'm not in a rush. Too bad the car is slow as *****...but it looks good.

I should do it this sat.....unless I go golfing with my father.

 

this was a 2-3 day project for me, unless you have access to a press.
removal to completion was probably only 2-3 hours per side.
i remember doing mine 4 months ago.

day 1 is to take off the spindle from the car. don't waste your time trying to take the bearing out of it. it's a waste of time. i wasted an hour trying to take the damn thing off and finally gave up. gear puller, slide hammer, swearing... i tried it all.

day 2 is to get the bearing pressed out from the spindle and hub. then install the old hub into the new bearing. nothing wrong with the old hub. make sure you clean it first though.

day 3 was to install everything back.

get one of this to make life easier and not wreck any boot

it's a ball joint separator, safer than the fork.

i had to do the same project twice within 2 weeks since both bearing failed 2 weeks apart. second time around took me maybe close to 1.5 hours

i bought the first bearing off ebay from a NY dealership.
the next one was from rockauto and they had the best pricing.
both parts were completely identical.
oem is overpriced, locally, they wanted $385 for one.

good luck on the install.
word of advise, pb blaster and air tools are your friends.

 

Just to clarify, Timken is a global manufacturer, just like NTN, NSK, SKF. Their bearings are their bearings. Obviously, being competing manufacturers, they will all have identical drop-in designs for eachother, especially for the automotive market.

You will be fine with either brand, so yeah i would just base it off price.

 

I bought one of those. $20...figured it would be worth it.

Question to you. What suspension parts did you unbolt to be able to remove the half-shaft?

Steering link and upper ball-joint are what i planned on undoing. Will this work?

I am planning on pulling the spindle...but i really don't want to.

 

wow man thats intense i am now worried ten times more as i think i have to change the bearings on my X i have a warrenty wonder if they cover that stuff ???

 

If you lower it, they WILL go bad. just a matter of when.

 

Different offset rims can also cause the bearings to go bad prematurely.

 

I read this whole thread but there's something I don't quite understand. I looked at the pictures and it seems you only need to unbolt 4 bolts from the back and the wheel bearing/hub assembly should come right off the knuckle. Is this bearing housing pressed into the knuckle that tight that you would need a shop press to separate it from the knuckle? Maybe just a few bangs with a slide hammer might free it up? Otherwise the challenge I see here is if you decide to only buy the wheel bearing and re-use the hub whereby then you need to separate the hub from the bearing and later on press the hub back into the new bearing. This is an unsual looking bearing because it seems be pressed inside that outer housing (not sure what you call it) with the 4 bolt holes.

 

Its not pressed into the knuckle, its just rusted/seized into the knuckle. There are only four bolts that hold it on but one of the four is blocked by the compression rod which requires you to remove some other parts from the knuckle to get the last bolt off. Ones you remove all the bolts, you may be able to use a sledge to knock it out but I needed to use a air hammer. I wouldn't recommend re-using the hub. It is not worth the time and stress trying to remove it from the other bearing without damaging it. Mine was seized/rusted into the old bearing. Just spend the money and get a new hub.

 

If you lived in a dry climate like TX or AZ, then the bearing might fall out when you unbolt the 4 bolts. But chances are if you live there, you don't need an AWD car. Where AWD is needed, salt and water cause the bearing to seize to the spindle. It might come out with a slide hammer, but i'm not holding my breath. I've done brake work on my car, and it's still relatively rust-free, but we'll see what happens.


The fact that once the bearing is removed, you need to pull and re-press the hub is why i chose to buy a hub and press it into the bearing ahead of time. That way, once i get the old bearing out, i can just kick it aside and install the new one with the new hub. I need to finish this job ASAP, so i don't want to waste time pulling the hub out and repressing it.

When i move onto the other side at a later date (both my front are bad) i'll then have the time to pull the old hub and determine if i want to reuse it, or buy a new one...and then press it into the new bearing ahead of time so it's ready to go.

 

Does anyone sell a hub with wheel bearing already pressed in or you can only buy each component separately?

I didn't know they made an all wheel drive G35. I have an '03 RWD so at first was confused why you had to deal with a spindle.

I've changed some wheel bearings in my Honda before and used the Harbor Freight wheel bearing adapter set which worked great. For the G35, I know you can press the hub into the bearing using that tool (if you don't want to buy or have access to a shop press). Ideally the wheel bearing would first be bolted into place, then you would use the HF tool with the right adapters to press the hub into the bearing. In either case, if you want to re-use the hub, you will have to cut (using a die grinder) or somehow pull the old wheel bearing's inner race off the hub (using some bearing pullers which might not always work). That would save you from having to buy an extra hub. Just adding another potential option to this thread.