Did lowering your G35 sedan screw up alignment (or anything else)?
#1
Did lowering your G35 sedan screw up alignment (or anything else)?
Hello.
I'm considering buying eibach springs that lower my 2005 sedan by 1.1" . FYI, I'll also put Bilstein sport shocks on.
I'm concerned that this will mess up the alignment and massively decrease camber. To those that have lowered their sedan an inch or so, what problems did you run into?
Any reviews / opinions on the above set up would be appreciated too. I'm stock other than a hotchkis front sway.
thanks
I'm considering buying eibach springs that lower my 2005 sedan by 1.1" . FYI, I'll also put Bilstein sport shocks on.
I'm concerned that this will mess up the alignment and massively decrease camber. To those that have lowered their sedan an inch or so, what problems did you run into?
Any reviews / opinions on the above set up would be appreciated too. I'm stock other than a hotchkis front sway.
thanks
#3
#4
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short it (10-05-2011)
#6
Since there is no front camber adjustment from the factory, you will most likely be slightly out of spec. I dont recall exactly what my specs were when I was lowered 1" but I believe it was around -1.1 to -1.3 degree's. It's very close to spec so as long as you get a good alignment and keep your TOE setting in spec you will be fine.
#8
Depends on how much "in spec" you want to be. You will very likely be able to correct your toe with stock adjustments and maybe just a bit of extra camber. But as many people will testify, camber does not eat up tires nearly as much as people have said in the past, out of spec toe will though.
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short it (10-06-2011)
#9
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G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
Oh the pain!!
I dropped my sedan on H Techs a couple of years ago and amid the comments I'd be fine, the best I could get up front on stock a arms was -1.5 camber and ate through tires,
Fast forward to today, I'm dropped 3" on Tanabe coils and have been for a year but I also have the SPL front A Arms, Stillen rear camber arms, and SPC toe bolts. My advice is if you're going to drop AT ALL get the aftermarket suspension pieces. Some will tell you thay can get back into spec w/o them but if you can't get ready to replace tires quickly. A set of front and rear camber adjusters might cost $600 or more but if you plan to keep your car for a while, the expense is well worth not having to replace your tires every 15K miles.
Like I said above I'm dropped significantly and here's a shot of my rear tire. -.7 camber, .08 toe, and 2 mm clearance from sidewall to fender. Alignment w/in factory specs and I couldn't be happier. I'll get more than 30K miles out of the Hankooks and that's driving them hard.![Big Grin](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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That's the good news, now the bad. I have had to replace both lower front control arms at around 70K miles, I need to replace the front driver's side ball joint (will do both sides at the same time), and my rear diff bushing has torn and is leaking fluid. The LCA's and diff bushing are pretty normal for the amount of miles I have (97K currently), but I'm convinced the ball joint issue is a direct result of driving so low. I'm going to buy these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Megan...0#ht_500wt_956 which are specifically designed for lowered vehicles. They utilize different angles than the stock balljoints to keep the geometry of a lowered suspension correct.
OP I HTH, if you have any other questions feel free to shoot me a PM.
I dropped my sedan on H Techs a couple of years ago and amid the comments I'd be fine, the best I could get up front on stock a arms was -1.5 camber and ate through tires,
Fast forward to today, I'm dropped 3" on Tanabe coils and have been for a year but I also have the SPL front A Arms, Stillen rear camber arms, and SPC toe bolts. My advice is if you're going to drop AT ALL get the aftermarket suspension pieces. Some will tell you thay can get back into spec w/o them but if you can't get ready to replace tires quickly. A set of front and rear camber adjusters might cost $600 or more but if you plan to keep your car for a while, the expense is well worth not having to replace your tires every 15K miles.
Like I said above I'm dropped significantly and here's a shot of my rear tire. -.7 camber, .08 toe, and 2 mm clearance from sidewall to fender. Alignment w/in factory specs and I couldn't be happier. I'll get more than 30K miles out of the Hankooks and that's driving them hard.
![Big Grin](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![](http://www.slickpic.com/photo/share/M0NLLhYNz0lUmj/800/p/332966.jpg)
![](http://www.slickpic.com/photo/share/5ATNMzYTDG2zDk/800/p/332967.jpg)
That's the good news, now the bad. I have had to replace both lower front control arms at around 70K miles, I need to replace the front driver's side ball joint (will do both sides at the same time), and my rear diff bushing has torn and is leaking fluid. The LCA's and diff bushing are pretty normal for the amount of miles I have (97K currently), but I'm convinced the ball joint issue is a direct result of driving so low. I'm going to buy these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Megan...0#ht_500wt_956 which are specifically designed for lowered vehicles. They utilize different angles than the stock balljoints to keep the geometry of a lowered suspension correct.
OP I HTH, if you have any other questions feel free to shoot me a PM.
![Biggthumpup](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
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short it (10-06-2011)
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