if i was doing an LS1 swap and had a infinite bank roll id go MOONFACE, but dollars to donuts for what i have planned just going MEGAN.

One other thing... for the end-links don't settle for OEM replacement. I have SPL and have no complaints. Whiteline are quality as well from what I hear.

 

I just had nissan replace my lwr control arm bushings and they found my compression rod bushings were bad.I didnt have any shaking or noise! Just at 80 on the interstate had alittle vibration. They also aligned the frt and rear. Cost me $100 I had extended warranty. It handles great always did!

 

Yep - I've been hearing time and again that Whiteline is where it's at for affordability and Quality with our rides. Seems they found that goldielocks spot.

 

As it happens - they totally let me pay the extra balance and shifted me the remaining parts of that kit... so I got the whole kit and kaboodle!

I've already installed the front lower control arms and sway-bar end links - which turned out to be a LOT easier than I'd expected - and I even attempted the ball joints. But MAN I can NOT figure out that stupid Auto Zone Ball Joint Press thing to save my life! I'm currently doing a bit of research on the ball joint topic now - and it's looking like just taking whole knuckle(s) off and down to the corner shop for a $30 press out/in is the way to go LOL

 

DOES ANY ONE HAVE ANY DIY ON THIS LOWER CONTROL ARM? I JUST HAVE 2 MAIN QUESTIONS. I COULDNT FIND ANY WHERE REALLY

1. IM I GOING TO NEED ANY SPECIAL TOOL TO REPLACE THE WHOLE ARM.?
JUST BAUGHT THE WHOLE THING AND I DONT WANT TO PRESS ANYTHING IN OR OUT AND IT LOOKS LIKE THE BOLT THAT GOES BEHIND THE WHEEL IS PRESSED IN (HOPE NOT)

2. IS IT TRUE THAT THE BOLT THAT GOES THREW THE SHOCK HAS TO BE TIGHNED WHEN WHEELS ARE ON THE FLOOR ? OR IS THAT THE OTHER BOLT GOES THREW THE CHASSIS....

 

I just did this and all I used was:
---
24" Ratcheting Breaker Bar with 1/2" drive (even an 18" would do really)
Torque Wrench
PB Blaster Penetrating Lubricant to prep the bolts for removal
Floor Jack (having two would be useful but not needed, as long you have a:
Jack Stand
A second large 1/2" drive Socket Wrench (not breaker bar size, just big)
The appropriately sized short and deep well sockets
A pair of needle nose pliers for the cotter pins on the LCA balljoint bolts



As to your second question, that relates to having either two jacks, or a jack and a jack stand:

In order to tighten everything up correctly, you have to have the geometry of the control arm assembly in the right position (like it would be on the ground with the cars weight on the tire). In order to do this, you jack up the car and then put a jack stand at it's lowest setting (or second jack just jacked up a little bit) under a point of the sub-frame that's safe to hold the car up. Then using a floor jack, with the new control arm in place with all the bolts and nuts are in/on but not tightened up (still hand loose), put the jack cup under the ball joint in the steering knuckle and jack up the suspension assembly until you're just *barely* lifting the car from the jack stand. At this point you've the full weight of the car at that wheel's location.

This way, you've got the parts all in the same places they would be when the car is sitting on them - from there you can tighten it all up using the torque specifications called for in the FSM... which I think is pictured here in this thread - or you can just reference the free PDFs available for our car here:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/


Hope that answers your questions

 

you're the man bro! thanks!

 

How do you tighten the ball joint bolt? It just keeps spinning

 

If it keeps spinning guess what you need? New ball joints! Haha

 

Damnnn..... really there's no way to clamp down on it it wasn't loose b4.

 

There's a diy for the steering knuckle ball joints on here. It's easy enough, but if you have a friend its super easy cuz you'll need a 3-4 ft breaker bar to pop em out and it helps if a friend holds the wrench and bj press steady while you ratchet. It also helps to have a big pointy punch chisel to line up suspension parts and a giant pry bar to get the cones off the ball joints. I've got the czp ball joints in mine and so far so good after bout 4 months. $45/ea (or $40 if you use your old cones, which I did) from conceptzperformance. I've replaced all these things and ill tell you now that its better to do it all at once. I'm pretty much a front end G35 expert now cuz I tore it apart so many goddamn times.

 

You can try repositioning it so that there's no weight on it when you tighten it. Get a jack under the lca and start working on it in different positions. Worked for me once, but then I replaced them like a couple weeks later.

Getting it all to work together is the hardest part. Just keep messin with it and you'll find an angle where it works.

 

I tried everything it's to the point where I just bolted everything else and now the car feels like it steers it self .... Could that be the ball joint or some epic alignment issues

 

Anytime you mess with front end parts your alignment gets way screwed. I would suggest investing in a lifetime alignment from Evans or firestone or someplace.

You'll most likely get a clunk if that crown nut is loose and I would suggest going to a shop and asking if they can tighten it. May charge you $20, but that's sorta dangerous to drive around with loose suspension parts.

 

true that. well i figured out the problem..... after market lower control arms apparently have little cone shaped shims that go on to the ball joint. the bolt was actually all the way tighten but the hole that goes around the ball joint was just bigger then oem. so i contacted the guy who sold me them and he will send me some new control arms WITH THE DAMN SHIMS and for the mean while. i cut some cone pieces of a coke can. made a cone shape shims and boom no looseness. nice and snug..... obviously its not going to be a permanent thing but until my new shims come in this will do the job..... home this helps any one else that has this kinda issues. thanks alot tho peeps .