General suspension q&a
#1
11-13-2012 | 10:51 PM
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General suspension q&a
Ok let me start by saying I'm completely new to owning a car. I've always owned trucks. Lowered and 4x4. But I decided a year ago I wanted a nice car. So I bought a 04 35 coupe. The guy before me lowered it and I believe all he did was put new lowering coil overs on it, never corrected the negative camber. I've always worked on my own vehicles and Ive got a lot of knowledge on vehicles but something I've never done/learned is camber and toe alignment etc. I wanna fix the negative camber my car has but not 100% sure how to or what parts are good being that all the trucks I've lowered we're easy and don't really have camber issues with big rims. I just need general help/direction on how to go about fixing my car so it rides better and get more life out of my tires. Any advise can help. Thank
#2
11-13-2012 | 10:56 PM
#5
11-15-2012 | 02:27 PM
You should get your car on an alignment rack if you haven't already done so to figure out a) how far (if at all) out of spec you are, and b) if you even need to buy anything aftermarket to correct it. It may just need a toe adjustment depending on how low the car is. The G35 coupes run natural negative camber in the -1 to -1.5 degree range if I remember right and camber won't really destroy your tires, toe will. It may cause slightly uneven wear over a long enough period of time, but this is usually minimal if your toe is in spec.
Also for measuring how low you are, compare your fender measurements to the list below:
Grab a tape measure and measure from the ground to the center of the wheel arch and compare to:
From the Factory Service Manual (ie FSM)
Wheelarch Height (Unladen = full tank of gas, spare tire, jack etc in stock locations)
With 17"
Front: 691 mm (27.20 in)
Rear: 702 mm (27.64 in)
With 18"
Front: 694 mm (27.32 in)
Rear: 710 mm (27.95 in)
With 19"
Front: 699 mm (27.52 in)
Rear: 710 mm (27.95 in)
These measurements are from the ground to the high point of the arch (centered on the wheel hub).
From the Factory Service Manual (ie FSM)
Wheelarch Height (Unladen = full tank of gas, spare tire, jack etc in stock locations)
With 17"
Front: 691 mm (27.20 in)
Rear: 702 mm (27.64 in)
With 18"
Front: 694 mm (27.32 in)
Rear: 710 mm (27.95 in)
With 19"
Front: 699 mm (27.52 in)
Rear: 710 mm (27.95 in)
These measurements are from the ground to the high point of the arch (centered on the wheel hub).
#6
11-15-2012 | 05:39 PM
#7
11-19-2012 | 11:06 AM
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Nothing wrong with SPC parts, they tend to be a little less expensive than the SPL stuff but they're fine. I have a mix of SPC and SPL parts on my car, and at some point I'll get around to upgrading the SPC stuff, but there's been no problems with any of it. The SPL stuff is just incredibly beefy and awesome.
You should get your car on an alignment rack if you haven't already done so to figure out a) how far (if at all) out of spec you are, and b) if you even need to buy anything aftermarket to correct it. It may just need a toe adjustment depending on how low the car is. The G35 coupes run natural negative camber in the -1 to -1.5 degree range if I remember right and camber won't really destroy your tires, toe will. It may cause slightly uneven wear over a long enough period of time, but this is usually minimal if your toe is in spec.
Also for measuring how low you are, compare your fender measurements to the list below:
You should get your car on an alignment rack if you haven't already done so to figure out a) how far (if at all) out of spec you are, and b) if you even need to buy anything aftermarket to correct it. It may just need a toe adjustment depending on how low the car is. The G35 coupes run natural negative camber in the -1 to -1.5 degree range if I remember right and camber won't really destroy your tires, toe will. It may cause slightly uneven wear over a long enough period of time, but this is usually minimal if your toe is in spec.
Also for measuring how low you are, compare your fender measurements to the list below:
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#8
11-19-2012 | 12:59 PM
So your next step would be to take it to an alignment shop (for a check-up, any place will do) and see what your current specs are at. If the shop can get your toe back in spec as is let them, if not you'll know you need to look into an aftermarket kit to correct toe (and camber if you want but base that decision on the results of an alignment machine, imo). You'll be amazed how much of a difference correct toe makes in the ride quality if it's bad right now. I know you originally mentioned camber and I'm intentionally not focusing on that. If you want to keep your tires toe is your first priority.
Post up the results of the alignment machine too if you want a hand. I'm pretty sure the factory / OEM recommended specs are in a sticky post around here somewhere too.
Post up the results of the alignment machine too if you want a hand. I'm pretty sure the factory / OEM recommended specs are in a sticky post around here somewhere too.
#9
11-19-2012 | 08:16 PM
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#10
11-25-2012 | 05:46 PM
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#13
11-26-2012 | 11:33 PM
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Okay so I have tried several times to get the picture to upload. For some reason I can't get it to work thru photobucket. If any of you wanna see it I'll definitely send you a email with the picture. Just email me at kellyneighoff@gmail.com thanks
Last edited by Kng35; 12-02-2012 at 10:54 PM.
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