You'll likely need at least rear camber kit with toe bolts. Go with SPC or SPL brand and make sure it includes the elongated toe bolts. SPC is probably around $140ish I'd guess, SPL is more.

You also may need a front camber kit to get fully back in spec, but again going with SPC or SPL is at least a few hundred bucks. For fronts it may pay off to get it aligned first and then see how close they can get it to spec before buying the front kit since it's so much more expensive. Make sure they get toe in spec and then match camber as close to spec as possible.

 

I was taking off my non adjustable endlinks from the front Hotchkis sway bar and the nuts are seized. They are so hard, even using wd40 and a longer pipe for leverage, it won't budge. I got the front passenger bottom nut off, but the top nut will not come off, you can't use anything like an allen head to hold and go the opposite way. The driver said is completely stuck, top and bottom, even with use of the allen head on bottom bolt.

Any advice especially for the top nuts that all you can use is a wrench?

 

have you tried an impact gun? I would avoid using WD40 and switch to PB Blaster or Kroil. WD just doesn't have what it takes. Give it 24hours spraying it a few time over that period. Should come off easy.

 

Should I look to get Akebonos or Brembos?

 

Both should be priced around the same. Just remember you need brackets for the akebono. I believe Z1 makes a good, affordable set.

 

For what purpose? Looks? Track?

If you want performance go with brembos. If you want more of looks go with akebonos since they will be newer and not need to be redone to look good

 

No access to impact gun, but I'll have to go to someone for it, will get PB.

 

Try the PB blaster first. If that does not work, take an impact to it.

 

I am looking at buying the 350z s or h techs and spring mount mod for my coupe. If I am running wheels that are poking a small amount, and I like the look of the extra camber camber induced by the drop, would the camber kits be necessary? Simply do camber kits only allow for excessive adjustment to camber to return to the OE specs or do they also allow the toe to be adjusted the necessary amount?

 

Camber kits give you adjustability. If you are okay with the drop induced camber, an alignment shop can get both sides even by using the eccentric bolts. As far as toe goes, you can buy aftermarket bolts to get your toe back to spec. Remember, Toe kills tires 20x more than camber does. Install the springs and then wait a week or two for them to settle. You should look into swift springs as they are miles ahead of the competition.

 

I'm thinking of installing revised z springs and shocks. Will I need a camber kit for that even though they are oem Nissan parts? My tires are still fairly new and I don't wanna run them into the ground. Also, what kind of wheel offset do I need to clear a bbk?

 

I'm on Z springs (3/4" drop) and still needed a camber kit f & r. The rear arms alone were good enough to get the rear into spec so I didn't need the toe bolts. I thought I would be fine with that mild drop and ended up chewing through fairly new front tires in about 8 months. The SPC kits from our vendors are pretty well priced, just do some comparison shopping for the best deal.

Wheel spoke design has more to do with BBK clearance than offset alone. Some offer a template that you can cut out and use to determine if your wheels will clear.

 

Perfect! Thanks DEMO, that helped a ton! Also about swift springs, what's the difference compared to other aftermarket springs?

 

They are the lightest springs you can buy, which helps a lot. The other thing is they are designed around the OEM strut and are also true to rate. I went from eibach to swift and the difference was unbelievable. They are also linear and not progressive like the Teins.

 

How many pistons are the front and rear brakes on the 03-04 non-brembo coupe? If I'm not mistaken the rears should be bigger, correct? I could be wrong, but the fronts definitely look bigger than the rears on my car.