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I just dont think its a fair fight. But I like to be proven wrong.
I think the first thing that needs to be figured out is what the OP in!tends on doing with the car to begin with and what kind of budget he has.
when you start talking about real performance, the problem is spring rate is related to ride height, and shock valving is related to spring rates, so adjustable height coilovers do you no good, unless you have run the shocks on a shock dyno and know what preselected settings to use with which set of springs, or a professional driver that can give accurate feedback about the shock settings. And even then what you would be doing is swapping springs and bumpstops when you want to change your ride height.Originally Posted by livinglegend
ehhh idk about that. I agree that with a quality set of springs and shocks you can achieve great performance and ride quality, but I have never ever seen at a track day (and I attend many) a spring/shock combination that offers what you can achieve with a good quality coilover setup. And i'm not talking BC or Megan... And realistically if you're going to spend the cash for the best of the best spring/shocks then why not just spend the money on coilovers anyway and get the full adjustability too? I just dont think its a fair fight. But I like to be proven wrong.
I think the first thing that needs to be figured out is what the OP in!tends on doing with the car to begin with and what kind of budget he has.
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gary c
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You're going to need a camber kit regardless of how low you go, our G35s don't come with adjustable suspensions. You have choices, install the camber kit or spend $$ to buy new tires....and often. SPL makes the a-arms with the most adjustability, then you'll need to find a alignment shop that knows how to adjust them correctly. (another challange) My alignment shop that I once considered to be the very best even installed my tow bolts in the wrong hole! Originally Posted by mynameisname
But would I still need a camber kit if I only wanted to lower about 2"-3"?
Gary
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I agree. What I meant about going for the adjustability aspect was just as a perk. I love having the adjustability because when im driving 2+ hours do a track day, I can dial back the damping for a soft semi-OE ride to the track, and when I get there I can dial it back up. When I take it to shows and meets I can lower the car to achieve the "look" I want, but at the same time when i'm at the track I have the option to raise it back up to a functional height. Originally Posted by totopo
when you start talking about real performance, the problem is spring rate is related to ride height, and shock valving is related to spring rates, so adjustable height coilovers do you no good, unless you have run the shocks on a shock dyno and know what preselected settings to use with which set of springs, or a professional driver that can give accurate feedback about the shock settings. And even then what you would be doing is swapping springs and bumpstops when you want to change your ride height.
That said, I think something needs to be said about the difference between real track-ready performance oriented coilovers and the coilovers you buy to slam and be "stanced". Sure a good spring/shock combo will compete with the average stance/BC coilovers but put them up against a track-minded setup such as Endless Zeal super-functions? I just find it a little hard to believe.
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You drive the car to the track? What if something major breaks... how do you get home lol. And from everything else I have collected here you have to make a choice. Pure blissful performance or low and for looks?
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a lot of people drive their car to the track. I do, but mine is basically stock. unless you start messing with the engine, which is usually the last thing people do for a track car, new cars are pretty reliable, and very few people have an issue.Originally Posted by Urbanengineer
You drive the car to the track? What if something major breaks... how do you get home lol. And from everything else I have collected here you have to make a choice. Pure blissful performance or low and for looks?
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ItsA..Gthing
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Both have their pros and cons...
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I hope and pray. Originally Posted by Urbanengineer
You drive the car to the track? What if something major breaks... how do you get home lol. And from everything else I have collected here you have to make a choice. Pure blissful performance or low and for looks?

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Yea everyone I know that has perf'd out high-strung engines will trailer their car to the track, or at least have one at the ready. In fact, last weekend at powercruise here in Mn a good friend of mine who I convoyed up with drove his *very modified 788whp 7m supra to the track. took the abuse all weekend but about halfway home the oil pump pulley failed and stopped the engine dead. (oil pump is timing driven). Those things just happen sometimes and you have to plan for it. I rather enjoy having a mostly stock engine for the simple fact that I can thrash it around for a couple days without having to worry about it too much. Change out all the fluids when I get home and wait for the next time. Originally Posted by totopo
a lot of people drive their car to the track. I do, but mine is basically stock. unless you start messing with the engine, which is usually the last thing people do for a track car, new cars are pretty reliable, and very few people have an issue.
And as far as breaking anything else or crashing, I dont drift or autoX the G. I have an Rx7 for beating to hell and back. The G mostly resides on the road course. Occasionally the drag strip, but a fairly stock G is not at all impressive in a straight line so I usually dont bother.
Anywho that got kinda off topic. OP, what do you intend on doing with the car? just a daily that you want to slam? track days? How much do you want to spend?
My car is a daily and I probably won't be doing too much modding, let alone tracking. I want to lower mostly for aesthetics however I don't want to lose ride comfort nor do I want less performance than stock. I have reconsidered and I think 1"-2" should be enough to get rid of that huge fender gap. I'm also getting stock 19" rays to replace my stock 18". I get new hankook tires for $35 each so I don't know if a camber kit would be worth it if I just stay 1" below stock height.
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ItsA..Gthing
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My Eibach Pro-kit springs are coming off this Thursday and will be for sale...500 miles on them 1.1 drop front and 1.0 drop rearOriginally Posted by mynameisname
My car is a daily and I probably won't be doing too much modding, let alone tracking. I want to lower mostly for aesthetics however I don't want to lose ride comfort nor do I want less performance than stock. I have reconsidered and I think 1"-2" should be enough to get rid of that huge fender gap. I'm also getting stock 19" rays to replace my stock 18". I get new hankook tires for $35 each so I don't know if a camber kit would be worth it if I just stay 1" below stock height.


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If you buy cheap tires a camber kit is really more of a luxury for street application. A lot of people just drop their cars and leave the camber as is. Especially if they go with wide aftermarket wheel. Yea its going to eat up your tires faster, but its not like you're gonna be replacing tires every month. I've had a lot of decently cambered cars and I never had a problem getting a set of tires to last an entire year. And thats driving fairly hard also. But I buy used tires so if I have to replace them in 2 or 3 months its a moot point. If you have hook ups then its even cheaper. I have access to a tire changer/balancer when I need it so All I have to do is source decent used tires. Probably spend less on tires in 5 years than most people do buying one single set of new tires.
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ItsA..Gthing
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Toe is ever so important...This adjustability is more important..(Toe Bolts) then camber...IMO
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Rear camber kit with toe bolts costs only $150, if you figure that extension of tire life into all the new tires you'd save money quickly if you drive your car a decent amount. It's stupid to be cheap about something when it doesn't cost that much to get right and ends up losing you money overall rather quickly...Originally Posted by livinglegend
If you buy cheap tires a camber kit is really more of a luxury for street application. A lot of people just drop their cars and leave the camber as is. Especially if they go with wide aftermarket wheel. Yea its going to eat up your tires faster, but its not like you're gonna be replacing tires every month. I've had a lot of decently cambered cars and I never had a problem getting a set of tires to last an entire year. And thats driving fairly hard also. But I buy used tires so if I have to replace them in 2 or 3 months its a moot point. If you have hook ups then its even cheaper. I have access to a tire changer/balancer when I need it so All I have to do is source decent used tires. Probably spend less on tires in 5 years than most people do buying one single set of new tires.
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$150? I was basing my logic off of the $1000+ pricetag GaryC put on camber kit/install. $150 is cheap, as long as OP can install them himself. And perform and alignment.
All I'm saying is used tires are a cheap alternative. Its not "cheaping out" its just using my resources. I Spend ~$50 on tires a year for the rear. Install and balance them myself, and drive the car. I could even make those last another year if I flipped them on the wheel but I prefer to just burn them off at the end of the year...
All I'm saying is used tires are a cheap alternative. Its not "cheaping out" its just using my resources. I Spend ~$50 on tires a year for the rear. Install and balance them myself, and drive the car. I could even make those last another year if I flipped them on the wheel but I prefer to just burn them off at the end of the year...




