Does anyone have a problem getting their rear toe to 0 degrees? My mechanic says my SPC toe bolts are maxed out and I can't get it any lower/closer to 0deg.

Currently I'm running about .1deg toe and -1.9deg camber in the rear. I can't get my toe closer to 0 without running more negative camber.

I'm thinking about replacing my toe bolts since I have a spare set thats brand new. Is it possible that stripped toe bolts could be the problem and putting new ones in will fix it?

Fender to ground is 26.25" in the rear with OEM 19s and 245/40 tire.
SPC rear camber kit w/ toe bolts.

 

Are these the ones you have to wallow out the frame hole? if so, can't you just wallow it out some more? Or am I thinking about "camber" bolts"?

 

Yes, you can just make the hole bigger.

We need more info for his problem tho. Did you drill out the hole or just stick in the bolts? What are your camber settings?

 

He said his rear camber was 1.9 degrees, must be lowered about 1.5-1.75". I'm at 1" lower and I get 1.2 out of mine.

 

Haha I have no idea how I missed that. Wow.

What's wrong with 0.1 toe tho, OP? Im running 0.12 up front and 0.32 out back with no issues.

 

I have the same problem. I have spc camber arms and their toe bolts which were installed correctly. I would be hesitant to elongate the slot further, really the bolts need a more offset cam. I am thinking of getting the slot lockouts and getting kinetix toe arms in the near future. I've seen tire radials on a few occasions.

 

I have .05 in the rear. I would rather not mess with the slot if I was you

 

The slot was made bigger. I'm not going to make it any bigger since that will probably just cause headaches down the road…

And .1 toe is in spec, but I prefer being as close to 0 as possible for tire wear purposes.

Scragglerock do you have really high tread ware or something? .32 toe in the rear seems high

I was considering the SPL lockout kit as well. What exactly would this accomplish?

 

The lockout kit will prevent the accentric bolts from slipping when you install new control arms to do the same job as them. I heard bad things about the kenetix arms, maybe they re-did the bushings recently? If not, I'll have to go with a different brand for toe arms.

 

Well, toe isn't always a bad thing. It can be adjusted for cornering, traction and road crown. Think about it, if your local roads have a lot of turns what is happening every time you go around a bend doing 60+? You're basically creating toe because your rear wheels stay straight as an arrow basically causing them to be dragged thru the turn. Nothing at all wrong with a little toe if you aren't always driving in a straight line.

Setting your alignment is an art, not a science. You have to make a lot of predictions, and set it for static numbers. How your car sits on the rack is not what you get going 55mph.

Edit: Toe arms are completely unnecessary and literally just add another variable into the equation. Those are made for track use when you want complete adjustability. Not to mention your tech will hate you for asking him to deal with them.

 

Unless you go to a performance garage you aren't going to find a Picasso in my experience. Alignments keep me up at night.

 

Correct, however if you know how to talk to them and the things you ask of them tend to make sense, they'll usually be willing to listen. Or at least do what you ask them to.

 

I found a pretty good alignment shop, I always try them out on my sentra. Next time I go in I need to ask them to not correct for the road curvature, I drive more on the highway so my car pulls left

 

is this without a camber kit?

 

Do you think it is worth it to replace my toe bolts since the passenger side one won't turn anymore but the driver side will turn (according to the tech).

This leads me to believe the bolt on the passenger side might be fakakta from a tech not knowing what he was doing.

I know I might sound like I am overreacting but I'm pretty obsessive when it comes to my G.