2005 g35 sedan abs vdc and slip lights come on the dash and the abs pump makes a buzzing constant sound. I have to unplug the abs pump from the relay to get the noise to stop, then plug it back in. The problem only happens on hot days and this is the second time it happened to me. I'm assuming since temp seems to be related here so it must be the solder points in the relay. Does this sound about right to anyone?

I usually like to try to fix it myself before I buy new parts, so thats where this post comes in.
I assume soldering the points in the relay is going to be to difficult and I probably don't have a good enough soldering iron anyway. I haven't seen anyone taking apart their relays and fixing them people just buy new ones I guess.

This seems like a common problem as alot of results on google about the same problem over all different types of nissan/ infiniti cars.

So should I buy a brand new relay for 160? or get the used one off ebay for 60 and potentially have the same problem again.

Does anyone know what the actual cause is? should I maybe try bleeding my brakes? and how would I go about activating the ABS to bleed the ABS pump?

 

Sounds like you have might have two problems, first something is triggering the abs pump (troubleshoot VSS circuitry, probably an intermittent short), next troubleshoot the pump and solenoid system itself. It can stay locked on if there's an air bubble in the assembly that's tricking it into thinking it needs actuation.

Bleed the entire system DO NOT USE A VAC PUMP, DO IT MANUALLY!!

OR

The motor can just randomly die and behave wonky because of a design that allows brake fluid to contaminate the control module (black plastic part mounted on the abs pump motor/solenoid block). Oil contaminates the module, causes it to turn on the abs motor, motor runs (even with vehicle turned off) eventually overheats and fries the motor.

You can follow the steps in the fsm to separate the module and see if it's all oiled up inside.

 

Thanks for the quick response. So don't use vacuum bleeders can I use my motive pressure bleeder? I'm guessing the answer is no since pressure and vacuum are similar but my pressure bleeder only goes to 15 psi

 

Permanent damage to the brake master cylinder can occur from using a power bleeder, you can still do it solo with a piece of wood cut to length to wedge up against the seat or something. Just use a towel to protect the seat.

 

Ok I have never heard of that. can anyone else confirm motive power brake bleeder is going to potentially damage my master cylinder?

How exactly does the damage occur?

Pumping up the brake pedal builds way more pressure inside the brake system than the motive power bleeder. it's only 15psi.
Do you know how the power brake bleeder works? I just don't see how damage could occur and I'm very familiar with how brake master cylinders work. I've used my power brake bleeder on multiple cars and never an issue.
If permanent damage can occur, that sounds like a chance that it won't occur. What is the variable that determines permanent damage? If you don't have an answer I'm sorry I can't respect your opinion if you don't know the way the damage would actually occur.

 

Many people have made the mistake, it's noted in bold print in the FSM not to use them, this isn't opinion. I personally haven't seen the damage nor have I used a vacuum assist bleeder on my vehicle but I suspect there isn't much (or any) of a retainer for the o-ring on the pump piston and it gets sucked off the end of the shaft or somehow dislodged. Purely speculation at this point.

EDIT: I just re-read your post, not familliar with Motiv but if it's a cap-replacement type PRESSURE bleeder it -might- not cause damage. The FSM specifically calls out VACUUM bleeders.

 

yea thats what I have the cap replacement type pressure bleeder motive power brake bleeder with the cap that fits imports. I never had a problem with it I'm going to use it to flush my brakes again.

I'm curious which FSM you have I couldn't find the don't use vacuum bleeders thing in my manual. I remember hearing that the ABS could get messed up from vacuum bleeders because they are powerful enough to activate the ABS valves even with the power off. I did bleed the brakes on my g35 once when I first got it two years ago with my pressure bleeder and it fixed a similar problem to the one i'm having now if not the exact same issue minus the abs pump locking up. So I'm going to try to use it again wish me luck lol

 

Ok my apologies, it's perfectly safe to use a vacuum bleeder on the brake system, it's the CLUTCH master cylinder you can't use the vac bleeder for...

 

so two years later and my car still does this.. and now it actually died like you were talking about! can you tell me more about why it dies?

 

I don't know the actual cause, but I have a way to reset the error, at least temporarily. I found a video on YouTube that showed this.

When all the lights come on and the pump keeps running after the key is shut off, pull the battery cable. Let it sit for a while. Reconnect the battery. My pump was still running after turning off the engine. The pump came on right after reconnecting the battery. That was after disconnecting the battery for nearly an hour.

The solution that worked for me was a video from someone on YouTube. They said to disconnect the battery, wait, reconnect the battery (hopefully pump is stopped). The lights will likely still be on. Get in the car and start it up. Turn the wheel to a hard left turn - all the way. Drive around in a circle a time or two. Per this person, this resets the ABS and traction control. Sure enough, the problem cleared after driving around a circle or two. The second time I had this issue, I couldn't get the electric pump to stop, even after the battery was disconnected. I tried again. I reconnect the battery, the pump was still running, I backed up the car and turned around in a tight circle a few times. I kept having the problem. I turned straight, then in a tight left circle again. I hit the VDC light and slip lights went out. Eventually the pump sound stopped. I pushed the VDC Off light and the VDC Off function worked properly.

Between the fuel gauge issue and now this, I've just about had enough of this car, and I've only had it a few months.

It's not a permanent fix and I have no idea what caused it, but it does seem to be a temporary fix when you're in a bind and you don't want to burn up your pump.

 

Thanks for the reply.. quite interesting although my stalling problem ended up being one of the cam sensors. and the ABS pump thing I am pretty sure is just dirty fluid. I'm unable to remember where I heard this but , it is certainly dirty fluid. Someone told me the abs pump somehow gets contaminated with engine oil vapors. This would make sense if the abs is connected to the engine vacuum maybe, but who knows. The fluid sure gets dirty though and the abs pump area never gets flushed because the abs valves are closed while you are doing a brake flush. I guess it just depends on how good of a shop you take it to. Or if you want to buy a abs scan tool, which I do not. I just do a really good brake flush and then drive the car hard and activate the abs a few times, then flush the brakes some more.

I always just unplugged the power to the abs pump it's the plug right next to the abs pump closest to the fender. I made sure to do a really long brake flush with the power bleeder. Bleeding brakes is really an art. I've seen mechanics do it wrong, and charge people for it. I only recently have figured out the art of bleeding brakes. I think alot of people have dirty fluid in there brake system.

But yea thinking about your circle trick I think I've heard about that before but seems a bit sketchy unless the problem happened in an area where I could make a few circles.. which is like no where around where I live in california. I'm curious about the abs system it's so mysterious. I wish I just had the scan tool that has all the abs functions. Technically you are supposed to use the scan tool to bleed the abs as a maintenance item. If your pump freezes up and starts making noise I feel like it's going to burn out if I didn't unplug it right away.

I was a bit frustrated with my G during all this drama. But Im glad I fixed it. I have the fuel gauge problem too. I'm pretty sure everyone does, I just keep my tank full as much as I can. kind of annoying but I'm ready for the apocalypse with my full tank of gas. If you are not sure about the health of your brake fluid it's probably a good idea to do some real good brake flushes..