I may have sourced incompatible parts let me know what you think. I have Eibach pro kit springs for G35 coupe (1 inch drop) and Bilstein B8s for the 350z/g35 coupe (says compatible with both). when i offer up the spring on the B8s the threads for the top nut barely sticks up past the spring meaning the spring will have to be compressed a lot to be able to fit. is this normal? im at work right now but can post a picture later if needed.

here are the part numbers:

Eibach 6365.140

Bilstein 24-101561

Bilstein 24-101578

Bilstein 24-101585

will these work?

 

I did something similar when I installed my Tein springs with a set of Koni yellows. Long story short I had installed the lower spring seat upside-down on the Konis so that the spring was sitting much higher on the strut than it should.

 

the spring seats arent removeable on the bilsteins so unfortunately that is not the issue. Im hoping the shock body isnt too short for the springs i have

 

Just to verify, you do NOT have a spring compressor on the springs when trying to test fit right? Because the springs typically need to be compressed over 1" just to dismount them from the strut assembly. If you have uncompressed springs and want to put them on new struts you need to compress like 3".

Helps to use two sets of spring compressors if that's the case. You won't he able to pick the furthest coils on the spring so one set is to compress as much as you can from the middle-ish then hook up the second set on further coils and use them to shrink it down to size properly.

 

o thank god haha youve put my mind at ease, yes the springs are uncompressed. Ive heard horror stories about spring compressors ill let someone who knows what theyre doing assemble them for me, have new everything rubber seat the top hat thingys and bolts gonna be sick, once everythings in ill post some pics

 

The fronts are struts, just have someone with a big shop spring compressor mount them on your struts. Rears are shocks and separate springs. Put the rear on jackstands, take the service Jack and put it under the spring bucket, remove the bolt, lower the spring bucket. There is very little tension on the spring bucket, I've pushed them back up by hand with difficulty without a service Jack bit it's a pain so just use the jack, helps a ton taking pressure off the bolt so you can get it out.

The top rubber perch might fall out so just he aware it's a separate piece. Usually it sticks on the spring pretty good and comes out with it.

Your alignment will be way off so it doesn't matter how you reinstall the toe bolt.

 

ya im gonna try and tackle everything myself except for mounting the spring to the strut, ill take a look at multiple you tube vids before diving in. UPS is failing the top strut mounts were supposed to show up Friday. I have adjustable arms as well so alignment was gonna be needed anyway. Thanks for the info though

 

Yeah just make sure on your arms that you take the radius rod (the forward one that people like to call a traction bar) and make it the exact same length of the OEM one, be sure to tell the alignment guy to NOT adjust that bar.

Then just eyeball your alignment from the rear of the car to try to get your toe not completely out or it can be difficult to actually drive down to the alignment shop

 

hey thanks for the advice man, ill let them know. my first modified car was an S13 and i physically measured from center bolt hole to center bolt hole on adjustable arms and it was driveable to the shop. just never did the actual springs/struts myself