Brakes: Solid Face vs Slotted vs X-Drilled
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Brakes: Solid Face vs Slotted vs X-Drilled
Opinions on each. Advantages : Disadvantages; Pros : Cons...what have you.
I'm looking to possibly getting a BBK done. I'm delegating between StopTech and Project Mu.
Opinions on what would be good for my kind of driving. I use the car as my daily ride to and from wherever. I also engage in trackdays, circuit type...maybe I'll dab in some auto-x.
I'm looking to possibly getting a BBK done. I'm delegating between StopTech and Project Mu.
Opinions on what would be good for my kind of driving. I use the car as my daily ride to and from wherever. I also engage in trackdays, circuit type...maybe I'll dab in some auto-x.
Last edited by 636Racer; 08-05-2005 at 02:23 AM.
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I believe the operating temperature is going to be determined by the brake pads and not the rotors! I would go with either, both are good kits. I know the project mu line offers a large selection of brake pad choices. You may want to go that route since you have have your Project Mu NS or BFORCE pads isntalled for daily driving and switch to a different pad on track days. If I remember correctly you want to avoid cross drilled rotors if you autoX since they build up alot of heat and can crack/warp. I believe slotted is the way to go for track cars. I would PM Afropuff, I think he is fairly knowledgeable on the subject and has done alot of research.
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Originally Posted by Stoptech
DRILLED VS SLOTTED ROTORS
For many years most racing rotors were drilled. There were two reasons - the holes gave the "fireband" boundary layer of gasses and particulate matter someplace to go and the edges of the holes gave the pad a better "bite".
Unfortunately the drilled holes also reduced the thermal capacity of the discs and served as very effective "stress raisers" significantly decreasing disc life. Improvements in friction materials have pretty much made the drilled rotor a thing of the past in racing. Most racing rotors currently feature a series of tangential slots or channels that serve the same purpose without the attendant disadvantages.
For many years most racing rotors were drilled. There were two reasons - the holes gave the "fireband" boundary layer of gasses and particulate matter someplace to go and the edges of the holes gave the pad a better "bite".
Unfortunately the drilled holes also reduced the thermal capacity of the discs and served as very effective "stress raisers" significantly decreasing disc life. Improvements in friction materials have pretty much made the drilled rotor a thing of the past in racing. Most racing rotors currently feature a series of tangential slots or channels that serve the same purpose without the attendant disadvantages.
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Currently, I'm on my second set of pads, using Hawk HP+ on all 4 corners and I'm using ATE Super Blue brake fluid. I'll be getting braided lines soon. I'm deciding whether to go Kevlar or Stainless Steel. btw, my car is an 04 MT6 .Sorry, I forgot to include my car in case of inquiring minds. If I do decide to keep the Brembo Calipers, I'll probably go with stoptech aero slotted rotors and project mu sintered pads or hawk blue pads on track days, and swap them out for HPS for street. The current setup isnt good enough, It still need a bit more stopping power; I could be overdriving them as I am getting faster, diminishing about 7/10 a second, every track day I attend. I dont want to find out that I am overdriving them and get a cracked rotor in event. Till then, a BBK is in question. Thanks for everyone's input.
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