my g is already rusting
Originally Posted by picus112
Hey guys; the reason it isn't covered is because it's a chip. Any car with a chip will rust in a couple days exposed to the elements. It's a bummer, but at least our hoods are aluminum and won't rust. OK, how to take care of it.
1) Clean the area really well with alcohol and water. Regular rubbing alcohol mixed 50/50 with water in a spray bottle, spray, wipe, repeat. Make sure to really soak the chip.
2) This is optional. Get a rust pen from Canadian Tire. It's a pen with glass tips at the end that act like sandpaper. Put it in the chip and spin it to get most of the rust. I would personally do this if the rust seems substantial.
3) Also, get a rust converter from CT. I showed Bill this at the meet; and Edmond in person, it's a neat product. Just lather the area with it (wear gloves, it's gross), let sit for about 10 min, repeat 2-3 times, and the leftover rust turns to primer.
4) Get a primer pen (CT again), it's a ball point pen that spits out primer. Fill the chip.
5) Wait 4 hours.
6) Fill chip with touchup, repeat until level (wait 4 hours in between coats).
7) Success.
1) Clean the area really well with alcohol and water. Regular rubbing alcohol mixed 50/50 with water in a spray bottle, spray, wipe, repeat. Make sure to really soak the chip.
2) This is optional. Get a rust pen from Canadian Tire. It's a pen with glass tips at the end that act like sandpaper. Put it in the chip and spin it to get most of the rust. I would personally do this if the rust seems substantial.
3) Also, get a rust converter from CT. I showed Bill this at the meet; and Edmond in person, it's a neat product. Just lather the area with it (wear gloves, it's gross), let sit for about 10 min, repeat 2-3 times, and the leftover rust turns to primer.
4) Get a primer pen (CT again), it's a ball point pen that spits out primer. Fill the chip.
5) Wait 4 hours.
6) Fill chip with touchup, repeat until level (wait 4 hours in between coats).
7) Success.
Originally Posted by Balzz
Whoa...what's it called? What section of CT would I find it in? This would rock to clean up the surface rust in the RX7.
As for rust in general - cars are metal, they will rust. With modern paints and aluminum and plastic parts rust is becoming less and less an issue, but since we're all in Canada we know firsthand what a pain it still can be. I take my car in and have Krowne to the bottom every year, and obviously I try to be aware of chips in spots that aren't obvious. On our cars this is door jambs, wheel well lips, bottoms of fenders, roof lip, gas cap. Fender/door chips are fairly obvious, and hood chips won't rust.
Just give it a once over every few weeks and fill any chips you see with primer, of if you're lazy just fill them with touchup paint. Keeping the metal from being exposed to the elements is the key.
Last edited by Picus; Jun 14, 2006 at 02:49 PM.
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Originally Posted by picus112
Hrm, the bottle is downstairs, I forget the name. It's in the paint section near all the touchups/sandpaper. It says "Rust Converter" right on it, small bottle (8-10oz) - there will be three or four varieties, all with the same effectiveness. You can buy larger amounts for bigger jobs. I'd say you use about one ounce per 4x4 inch area or so. You really do need to soak the rust and let it sit for a bit. It won't hurt the paint.
As for rust in general - cars are metal, they will rust. With modern paints and aluminum and plastic parts rust is becoming less and less an issue, but since we're all in Canada we know firsthand what a pain it still can be. I take my car in and have Krowne to the bottom every year, and obviously I try to be aware of chips in spots that aren't obvious. On our cars this is door jambs, wheel well lips, bottoms of fenders, roof lip, gas cap. Fender/door chips are fairly obvious, and hood chips won't rust.
Just give it a once over every few weeks and fill any chips you see with primer, of if you're lazy just fill them with touchup paint. Keeping the metal from being exposed to the elements is the key.
As for rust in general - cars are metal, they will rust. With modern paints and aluminum and plastic parts rust is becoming less and less an issue, but since we're all in Canada we know firsthand what a pain it still can be. I take my car in and have Krowne to the bottom every year, and obviously I try to be aware of chips in spots that aren't obvious. On our cars this is door jambs, wheel well lips, bottoms of fenders, roof lip, gas cap. Fender/door chips are fairly obvious, and hood chips won't rust.
Just give it a once over every few weeks and fill any chips you see with primer, of if you're lazy just fill them with touchup paint. Keeping the metal from being exposed to the elements is the key.
The rust converter is a liquid so it will run a little.
Perhaps you can dab an old rag and wipe the chip out. Do it a few times to ensure the chip is saturated with the solution.
Your chip is in a tough spot. I have one on the edge of my spoiler( how that got there I do not know), luckily it didn't chip through to the metal.
Read the instructions carefully!!!
Good Luck with the fix up.
B.
Perhaps you can dab an old rag and wipe the chip out. Do it a few times to ensure the chip is saturated with the solution.
Your chip is in a tough spot. I have one on the edge of my spoiler( how that got there I do not know), luckily it didn't chip through to the metal.
Read the instructions carefully!!!
Good Luck with the fix up.
B.
The coverter is safe on paint, so if it runs that's not a huge issue. Like Bill mentioned it's kind of a viscous liquid; try putting some on a q-tip then dabbing it in the chip. You'll have to repeat a few times (let it sit 5-10 min each time), the rust will turn a grey-ish brown color as it turns to primer.
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Wow, I am so glad to see so many of you have the same problem as mine. I posted my b!tching over 6 months ago and called my G a rust bucket and some a-hole members here called me a G basher. My rust is all along the inner trunk lid. It appears they did a poor job on the primmer before painting.
I have not gone back to the dealer yet and from the way you guys talk, guess I will get very little help from them as well.
I have not gone back to the dealer yet and from the way you guys talk, guess I will get very little help from them as well.
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Originally Posted by elau
Wow, I am so glad to see so many of you have the same problem as mine. I posted my b!tching over 6 months ago and called my G a rust bucket and some a-hole members here called me a G basher. My rust is all along the inner trunk lid. It appears they did a poor job on the primmer before painting.
I have not gone back to the dealer yet and from the way you guys talk, guess I will get very little help from them as well.
I have not gone back to the dealer yet and from the way you guys talk, guess I will get very little help from them as well.
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ok.. went out and bought the goods at crappy tire.
prep pen - $8.49
rust converter - $8.49
primer pen - $9.99
pics below for reference... and yes... the rust converter bottle had leaked... in fact they didn't have a single bottle that hadn't exploded in some funny fashion. by the remaining shape of the bottle... i start to really wonder how safe this is on the paint
prep pen - $8.49
rust converter - $8.49
primer pen - $9.99
pics below for reference... and yes... the rust converter bottle had leaked... in fact they didn't have a single bottle that hadn't exploded in some funny fashion. by the remaining shape of the bottle... i start to really wonder how safe this is on the paint
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raging success
just want to say that i tried out the directions offered by picus/kevin... and i must say that i am extremely pleased with the results.
i washed the car tonight and then swiped the rust areas with some rubbing alcohol. immediately u could see some of it come off onto the q-tips. i then used the prep-pen (or sanding magical doo-da)... this is what really did the trick. i used light pressure and a gentle sweeping motion and all the rust came off with little effect to the surrounding paint. that stick really does it's job. i then applied some of the rust-neutralizer (but i honestly don't believe i had to).... followed it up with some primer... and tomorrow morning i'll fill in the area with touch up paint. should look good as new.
i highly recommend the prep-pen as it really does seem to do an excellent job. thanks again to all that helped me out in this situation. may the rust now R.I.P.
i washed the car tonight and then swiped the rust areas with some rubbing alcohol. immediately u could see some of it come off onto the q-tips. i then used the prep-pen (or sanding magical doo-da)... this is what really did the trick. i used light pressure and a gentle sweeping motion and all the rust came off with little effect to the surrounding paint. that stick really does it's job. i then applied some of the rust-neutralizer (but i honestly don't believe i had to).... followed it up with some primer... and tomorrow morning i'll fill in the area with touch up paint. should look good as new.
i highly recommend the prep-pen as it really does seem to do an excellent job. thanks again to all that helped me out in this situation. may the rust now R.I.P.
