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2005 6MT sedan - Steering wheel shimmy/vibration

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  #16  
Old 05-06-2005, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by RBull
Ian

Where did the 350evo come from and is that an ok mod on otherwise stock suspension?

Deane
Normal thing to do is to dial-in the right spring-rates first, and then use the anti-swaybar to fine tune.
 
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Old 05-06-2005, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Balzz
Normal thing to do is to dial-in the right spring-rates first, and then use the anti-swaybar to fine tune.

So basically leave it alone unless I am making spring changes first.
 
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Old 05-06-2005, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by RBull
So basically leave it alone unless I am making spring changes first.
Yep, that's right. I actually just had this conversation with a friend of mine who's been racing for years and has been spot-on with advice so far.

Bill: you tune a car to handle with the least roll bar you can handle. You determine a spring rate first. once it is good then you start changing your roll stiffness by changing bar diameter

Shane: gotcha. so, on a street car, it wouldn't be beneficial to upgrade just the roll bars without going to a stiffer spring/damper?

Bill: it really depends. on a street vehicle that has rubber bushings and all kinds of suspension compliance for comfort and usability it is going to be difficult to discern any change from slightly larger bars (if no other change is made)

Shane: right now, I"m really happy with the ride quality...firm, but not bone-jarring. but I find there's a little bit more body roll than I'm used to.

Bill: you are getting the tippy roll from the "comfort" tuned into the shocks. roll bars won't make much, if any, difference unless the shocks are upgraded. it's ill advised to upgrade bars too much on stock shocks. it makes a mis match. the shock wants to go through its natural range of motion and the resistance of the too big bar. ideally, you want the roll bar to only act as a damper in the final reaches of the range of motion. If the shock wants to move 2 inches and the roll bar starts binding at 1 inch then the shock never joined the party. makes for a very harsh setup.
 
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Old 05-06-2005, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Balzz
Yep, that's right. I actually just had this conversation with a friend of mine who's been racing for years and has been spot-on with advice so far.

Bill: you tune a car to handle with the least roll bar you can handle. You determine a spring rate first. once it is good then you start changing your roll stiffness by changing bar diameter

Shane: gotcha. so, on a street car, it wouldn't be beneficial to upgrade just the roll bars without going to a stiffer spring/damper?

Bill: it really depends. on a street vehicle that has rubber bushings and all kinds of suspension compliance for comfort and usability it is going to be difficult to discern any change from slightly larger bars (if no other change is made)

Shane: right now, I"m really happy with the ride quality...firm, but not bone-jarring. but I find there's a little bit more body roll than I'm used to.

Bill: you are getting the tippy roll from the "comfort" tuned into the shocks. roll bars won't make much, if any, difference unless the shocks are upgraded. it's ill advised to upgrade bars too much on stock shocks. it makes a mis match. the shock wants to go through its natural range of motion and the resistance of the too big bar. ideally, you want the roll bar to only act as a damper in the final reaches of the range of motion. If the shock wants to move 2 inches and the roll bar starts binding at 1 inch then the shock never joined the party. makes for a very harsh setup.
Great conversation. Reminds me of the "Wealthy Barber".
I'm pretty much like you Shane, ride now is pretty good, would like to reduce body roll. I could handle a little more stiffness in the ride as a compromise. I don't know if the '05 has a more harsh ride than '04 but I find mine very compliant.
 
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