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  #1861  
Old 09-27-2011, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
Most likely it's a coated plastic of some kind, but you'd have to send me some pics or provide the material to be sure. Once I have that info I should be able to help you get the right car care product for the job.

Greg @ DI
Here's a picture of the handle. The exterior is all stock. I'm not sure if the handle has a coating or if it is just aluminum or some other metal.

Thanks
 
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  #1862  
Old 09-27-2011, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by g35_white
Do i use this after washing the car or before washing the car? Thanks

Also is the clay reusuable or one-time use?
Originally Posted by g35_white
Hi, i am about to order this clay, but i have a question. Will this work on windshield too or do i need to use something else to remove dots on windshield? Thanks
Sorry for the slow response, as always feel free to e-mail me if you need a faster response. Use a clay bar always after washing and before the polish, sealant, wax, etc.

Clay bars can be used multiple times, but how many times depends on the amount of build ups. I personally prefer to break up the 100g bars in to two pieces and the 200g bars in to four pieces. I use each one once on the paint and then save it for heavily contaminated areas like the bottom side of the front bumper, right behind the wheels, etc. Store it in a container like this DI Accessories Clay Bar Storage Container and spray a little clay lube in it as well so it doesn't dry out. You can use that bar on the glass, wheels, headlights, etc.

Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI
 
  #1863  
Old 09-27-2011, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by drinknother1
Hi, i have another ? For you. This time on ONR wash. I see your site says its good for winter. Does that mean its safe to wash a vehicle with salt buildup on it without scratching or damaging my paint? Like a black truck that is half white. Or just a lightly dirty car. Im looking for an alternative to an auto wash and cheaper than getting a hand wash for a Chicago winter. Also do you dry the car like normal after the ONR wash. Thanks
There is a point where I won't wash with the ONR but it's difficult to quantify. I usually use it on light to medium build ups but a filthy car may require a traditional wash for the safest process. It does work great in the winter and it's safe to use in the winter but if you have a lot of caked up and dried out salt it may be best to not use the ONR. With with some regular care and protection on the surface the ONR is a huge help during the winter months. I fill my bucket with hot water in the house and put a rubber glove on my washing hand for best results.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI
 
  #1864  
Old 09-27-2011, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by V's G
Here's a picture of the handle. The exterior is all stock. I'm not sure if the handle has a coating or if it is just aluminum or some other metal.

Thanks
You can use a sealant on those handles and you should be fine. You can probably use a wax as well but if you see any whitish residue I'd skip it next time.

Greg @ DI
 
  #1865  
Old 09-28-2011, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
There is a point where I won't wash with the ONR but it's difficult to quantify. I usually use it on light to medium build ups but a filthy car may require a traditional wash for the safest process. It does work great in the winter and it's safe to use in the winter but if you have a lot of caked up and dried out salt it may be best to not use the ONR. With with some regular care and protection on the surface the ONR is a huge help during the winter months. I fill my bucket with hot water in the house and put a rubber glove on my washing hand for best results.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI
So i did end up picking some up in my order. Liked what i read about it, especially after reading a winter washing article on your site from lustr detail i believe. So what i plan to try first is go to a "self serve" and blast off all the salt and junk first. I also picked up some grime reaper in my order. My ? Is should i pretreat with the onr at qd ratio or grime reaper? Will grime reaper strip wax? Or do grime reaper for wheels and onr for paint? Also just planned on using the rinse water at self serve not their soap as i heard it strips wax. Love your site btw. Lots of good stuff
 
  #1866  
Old 10-31-2011, 11:38 AM
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hi greg i got a question..
are u familiar with wolfgang product?? i picked up a wolfgang total swirl removal 3.0 and a wolfgang finishing glaze last week.. i try to apply it by hand but when i apply it with mf pad, its really hard for me to take it off from the paint.. it just stick like glue and i have to use my muscle to take it off. so after i do clay and try to apply half of my hood, i gave up and do the sealant..

so why is so hard to wipe it off??
 
  #1867  
Old 11-02-2011, 07:46 PM
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Must have ran over some freshly paved tar...(Thanks for the invisible warning sign Orange County!) got all up in the wheelwell, along the bottom of the sideskirt, and even into the rear wheelwell. Got most of the stuff off the paint (from the visible part of the side skirt, underneath is still caked on) with goo gone and a claybar...but the other stuff doesn't seem to want to come off, even using tarminator. What do you recommend? Thanks!
 
  #1868  
Old 11-02-2011, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by threatcon07
Must have ran over some freshly paved tar...(Thanks for the invisible warning sign Orange County!) got all up in the wheelwell, along the bottom of the sideskirt, and even into the rear wheelwell. Got most of the stuff off the paint (from the visible part of the side skirt, underneath is still caked on) with goo gone and a claybar...but the other stuff doesn't seem to want to come off, even using tarminator. What do you recommend? Thanks!
i read an article about how to remove heavy tar...let me check

EDIT: Try using plastic razor blade after spraying the tar with tarminator and/or an APC (such as P21S TAW) and scrape it off in small chunks after you let the fluid dwell for a little bit.
 

Last edited by DR.D69; 11-02-2011 at 09:38 PM.
  #1869  
Old 11-04-2011, 07:41 PM
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Thanks Dr. D...
I did try tarminator but since its at the bottom of the sideskirt, facing down, a lot of it drips down...I guess I have to hold a towel against it after spraying it down. Doesn't seem to do much honestly. I'm going to go to a local detailer soon and we are going to tackle it together.

Originally Posted by DR.D69
i read an article about how to remove heavy tar...let me check

EDIT: Try using plastic razor blade after spraying the tar with tarminator and/or an APC (such as P21S TAW) and scrape it off in small chunks after you let the fluid dwell for a little bit.
 
  #1870  
Old 11-08-2011, 12:42 AM
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Hi all,

newb here who was reading a little and plan on buying some equipment and product. I bought the Jet Seal 109 and CG Wax. As well as the different colored pads (orange, white, yellow).

I have an 06 OB Sedan that has light swirls and now a car lightly scruffed up my front bumper. From what I'm reading, I will need a compound correct? Also will the compound help with the little scruff? I hope I have the rights pads ordered. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
  #1871  
Old 11-08-2011, 01:29 AM
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/\ so many compounds out there but to start, try the Megs 105/205 combo and you will be good. You should be ok with the pads you have, just get a few extras. You will use the orange an white most of the time. GL and have fun.
 
  #1872  
Old 11-08-2011, 07:57 PM
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so from reading the first post, it wold be as follows:

wash
clay
if necessary apply compound
sealant
optional - wax

Just want to make sure. Too bad I only bought 1 of each pad by accident. Yesterday was a super sale too.

Are there compounds specific to OB?
 
  #1873  
Old 11-11-2011, 11:53 AM
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Thank you guys for your patience and sending in the questions. I bought a house last month and between the nightmare of dealing with the banks, closing, packing, moving (in an October snow storm), cleaning, painting, etc. I haven't been around to provide more timely assistance but I'm back now and I'll be checking the forum every couple of days minimum and as always you can e-mail (see signature) us for the fastest response (usually within 12hrs). I know it may be a bit too late for some of these but I'll get in to answering your questions now!

Greg @ DI
 
  #1874  
Old 11-11-2011, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by drinknother1
So i did end up picking some up in my order. Liked what i read about it, especially after reading a winter washing article on your site from lustr detail i believe. So what i plan to try first is go to a "self serve" and blast off all the salt and junk first. I also picked up some grime reaper in my order. My ? Is should i pretreat with the onr at qd ratio or grime reaper? Will grime reaper strip wax? Or do grime reaper for wheels and onr for paint? Also just planned on using the rinse water at self serve not their soap as i heard it strips wax. Love your site btw. Lots of good stuff
I would use the Grime Reaper before hand to pre-treat difficult build ups. Use the ONR afterward to help clean any residue left behind and for the cleaning process. Many car washes use soaps that strip off sealants and waxes but obviously that could vary locally. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI
 
  #1875  
Old 11-11-2011, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by aldo123
hi greg i got a question..
are u familiar with wolfgang product?? i picked up a wolfgang total swirl removal 3.0 and a wolfgang finishing glaze last week.. i try to apply it by hand but when i apply it with mf pad, its really hard for me to take it off from the paint.. it just stick like glue and i have to use my muscle to take it off. so after i do clay and try to apply half of my hood, i gave up and do the sealant..

so why is so hard to wipe it off??
Usually the stronger the polishing power of the polish the tougher it is to remove. You may be using a bit too much product as well, after working it in thoroughly it should be pretty smooth and clear. Using a CLEAN microfiber towel is also critical and I would use about 2 - 4 towels minimum to remove this polish. If you need a little assistance try misting a little quick detailer on the surface and quickly remove 80% of it with your first microfiber towel, then follow up with a second dry towel for that spotless finish. If you have any questions please let me know!

Greg @ DI
 


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