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  #796  
Old 11-22-2008, 04:14 PM
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Hi George

I am new to this and after reading reviews of different products I have bought these products and I am planning to do the following

Step 1 - Wash
Step 2 - clay
Step 3 - Klasse AIO
Step 4 - Klasse SG ( 4 layers)
Step 5 - P21S concourse paste wax ( 3 layers)

My question is,
Can I use Klasse AIO, Klasse SG and p212 wax on glass windows, windshield, trim and headlamp/tail lights?

Thanks
 
  #797  
Old 11-23-2008, 07:55 PM
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Quick question, should I have the removable counter weight screwed on my 7424 when using the 4'' pads?

Thanks
 
  #798  
Old 11-23-2008, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by yourdoinitwrong
I have finally gotten done using all the products I purchased from Detailed Image on my Twilight Blue 04 Coupe. Being almost 5 years old with 65k on it, the paint is not perfect but the products George recommended made a huge difference and the car looks as good as it possibly can. Following is what I did.

1 - Menzerna Intensive Polish
2 - Menzerna PO106ff
(Trip to Jimmy Buff-It's to have them use a rotary for some deeper scratches)
3 - Chemical Guys EZ Creme Acrylic Glaze
4 - Chemical Guys Jetseal 109 (2 coats)
5 - Natty's Red

Before buying the G I didn't even know it was possible to use so many different chemicals on a car! However, since I really love my car I wanted it to look as good as possible so I went for it. This was definitely a LOT of work, at least to me, but it was definitely worth it. I just wanted to say thanks to George for taking the time to thoroughly and patiently answer my questions and recommend the right products. He could have just told me to buy all the most expensive things they sell to make some more money but he was honest and advised me on products that worked great but didn't put me any further in the poor house than I already am. In fact, I was so impressed that I have ordered some things from DI for the dealership I work at to clean and shine up our Corvettes. I know I should put some pics up here but I don't know how get the photos on here that are large enough to see. Anyhow, thanks George!
Thanks for taking the time to post up about your experience, greatly appreciated! The best thing about the process you just performed, chances are if you maintain your vehicle properly, you won't have to do that entire process again for another 6 months to a year. Maintaining the vehicle should be a breeze now with Natty's and Jet Seal protecting the paint. Make sure you are using a shampoo that does not strip off protection and you follow proper washing and drying techniques so that you don't add swirls and other imperfections. Sounds like a successful first detail, glad you were pleased with the outcome. If there's anything else I can give you a hand with, please do not hesitate to ask. Thanks again for your support!

Originally Posted by achanna
Hi George

I am new to this and after reading reviews of different products I have bought these products and I am planning to do the following

Step 1 - Wash
Step 2 - clay
Step 3 - Klasse AIO
Step 4 - Klasse SG ( 4 layers)
Step 5 - P21S concourse paste wax ( 3 layers)

My question is,
Can I use Klasse AIO, Klasse SG and p212 wax on glass windows, windshield, trim and headlamp/tail lights?

Thanks
Good question achanna, thanks for the post. A lot of detailers enjoy sealing their glass as it will help bead water off as you are driving. I personally use just the AIO on the glass as it cleans and protects in 1 step. It's good to use on headlights as well, but I'd avoid putting it on trim as it could stain. I don't see much added benefit of adding the sealant and wax on top, other than maybe a tad more durability with the sealant added, but the extra work isn't worth it IMO.

Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by Karma
Quick question, should I have the removable counter weight screwed on my 7424 when using the 4'' pads?

Thanks
I would leave it on there to help cut down vibration.

George
 
  #799  
Old 11-24-2008, 03:19 PM
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Hi. I would like to know your experience and recommendations as to removing concrete splatter from a car. I recently was able to remove a considerable (it looked almost irrepairable) amount of splatter with hydrochloric acid used to remove concrete and grout from tiles, after obviously trying it in an inconspicuous area. The affected areas were the rear quarter panel, glass, trunk, wheel, taillamp and roof. Thankfully, I was able to do it without damaging or scratching the paint, even though I had to do some thorogh scrubbing in some areas. Afterwards I did a thorough descratching, cleaning, polishing and waxing which was also long overdue.
 
  #800  
Old 11-25-2008, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Doc_Yizz
Hi. I would like to know your experience and recommendations as to removing concrete splatter from a car. I recently was able to remove a considerable (it looked almost irrepairable) amount of splatter with hydrochloric acid used to remove concrete and grout from tiles, after obviously trying it in an inconspicuous area. The affected areas were the rear quarter panel, glass, trunk, wheel, taillamp and roof. Thankfully, I was able to do it without damaging or scratching the paint, even though I had to do some thorogh scrubbing in some areas. Afterwards I did a thorough descratching, cleaning, polishing and waxing which was also long overdue.
Honestly, I've never had to remove concrete from a car before. I'll try to dig up some info and get back to you.

Sounds like you tackled the problem properly though. First remove the concrete from the paint, then I'd clay bar to ensure there are no remains of the concrete, polish to remove any imperfections from the scrubbing and removing the concrete, re-protect with a sealant and or wax.

How does the car look now? Any remains or permanent damage to the car?

George
 
  #801  
Old 11-26-2008, 03:54 PM
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I still have to remove several specks of concrete, but I'm sure they will come out without problems since they're very small, which is the reason I didn't see them the first time. I honestly thought that the paint would get scratched beyond repair or that some paint would be removed along with the concrete, but thankfully, none of those happened. Of course, if that had been the case, the contractor responsible for the damage would have to fork out the price of a new paint job.....
 
  #802  
Old 12-03-2008, 12:14 PM
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Hello George,

I just ordered the advanced PC kit - quick question about the polishing process I will be using.

So I know we do a test panel first and start with the least aggressive product first - here is my order:

Start with a white pad using PO106ff. If that doesn't work, then bump up using an orange pad. If that doesn't work, then orange pad using SIP P083. I'm assuming after that combo, the marks will be gone. So, do I finish with a finsihing polish (PO106ff)? Is there something that I am missing or that you recommend?

Thanks!
 
  #803  
Old 12-03-2008, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Doc_Yizz
I still have to remove several specks of concrete, but I'm sure they will come out without problems since they're very small, which is the reason I didn't see them the first time. I honestly thought that the paint would get scratched beyond repair or that some paint would be removed along with the concrete, but thankfully, none of those happened. Of course, if that had been the case, the contractor responsible for the damage would have to fork out the price of a new paint job.....
If there are just specks remaining, I'd imagine using a clay bar would help completely rid them from your vehicle. Since you're removing concrete, I'd recommend cutting a bar up into very fine pieces and throw each piece away after use since rubbing concrete onto paint would be sure to add some micro-marring. You probably want to repolish the areas you clayed to ensure any imperfections added are removed. Be sure to reprotect the paint after polishing.

Originally Posted by lmulion03
Hello George,

I just ordered the advanced PC kit - quick question about the polishing process I will be using.

So I know we do a test panel first and start with the least aggressive product first - here is my order:

Start with a white pad using PO106ff. If that doesn't work, then bump up using an orange pad. If that doesn't work, then orange pad using SIP P083. I'm assuming after that combo, the marks will be gone. So, do I finish with a finsihing polish (PO106ff)? Is there something that I am missing or that you recommend?

Thanks!
Personally, I'm not a fan of using PO106FF on an orange pad, so I'd go 106FF white to SIP orange if you wanted to make a jump. The reason for not using 106FF with an orange pad is that it's easy to add micro-marring or hazing without realizing it because some of the oils in the 106FF could temporarily hide them until they fully evaporate. If you do go with SIP and orange combo, you'd want to follow up with PO106FF and white to ensure you remove any hazing / micro-marring and to achieve the maximum depth and gloss. To take things even further, after 106FF white, you could try 106FF black to burnish the paint to an even higher finish. Test it in a small area first and see if you notice any better results.

You'll be pleased with the outcome of that combination. Keep us posted on how things turn out.

Regards,

George
 
  #804  
Old 12-04-2008, 04:50 PM
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Flex vs PC

Hi George,

Thanks for the response - quick question regarding the flex polisher you sell. I've been reading and have come down to two conclusions - it has more correcting ability power and is faster comparing to the PC. So, I'm a newbie and have never polished before. I was going to practice on some junk yard parts. WOuld you recommend the flex over the pc for a beginner? Also, I know for the PC there are settings - for instance, set it to 3 to apply the polish and then increase to 5 or 6 to work it in. Is there something similar on the Flex?

Thanks again.
 
  #805  
Old 12-04-2008, 04:58 PM
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Yes, the settings on the flex are the sme as a PC. If you have the money get the flex. It is almost impossible to damage paint with either. The flex will save you hours on a full day detail.
 
  #806  
Old 12-06-2008, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by lmulion03
Hi George,

Thanks for the response - quick question regarding the flex polisher you sell. I've been reading and have come down to two conclusions - it has more correcting ability power and is faster comparing to the PC. So, I'm a newbie and have never polished before. I was going to practice on some junk yard parts. WOuld you recommend the flex over the pc for a beginner? Also, I know for the PC there are settings - for instance, set it to 3 to apply the polish and then increase to 5 or 6 to work it in. Is there something similar on the Flex?

Thanks again.
loudog2 hit the nail on the head below. Using the Flex is very similar to using a PC in terms of what speeds you run the buffer at, how much pressure is applied and the polishing pattern used. The Flex at roughly speed setting 4 is slightly more powerful than the PC at full speed. The Flex operates at 6,600 OPM's while generating 330 RPM's, where the PC at speed 6 operates at 6,000 OPMs and does not have forced rotation mode like the Flex.

Picking up a Flex is just as easy as picking up a PC, both are paint safe, the Flex just has a lot more power and potential for faster and more effective paint correction. The variable speed trigger on the Flex is a great feature because you can set it at speed 5, spread it at a low speed by not applying as much pressure on the trigger, then kick it up to full speed with a firmer squeeze of the trigger. You can also lock in a speed by using the speed lock button. I personally enjoy the ergonomics of the Flex over the PC, however the only downside of the Flex is you cannot use smaller pads (yet).

If the Flex is within your budget, it's the smarter move. The time and energy saved even with your first full detail pays for the difference in price, not to mention the better results you'll have.

If you have any other questions on either unit, please do not hesitate to ask.

Enjoy the rest of your weekend.

George
 
  #807  
Old 12-09-2008, 10:41 PM
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Do you need to use a pre wax cleaner after polishing with 106ff?
 
  #808  
Old 12-10-2008, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by indef35
Do you need to use a pre wax cleaner after polishing with 106ff?
It certainly could help avoid any bonding issues with sealants and waxes with the oils that may be left behind with the 106FF. Other common alternatives are to re-wash with a stripping shampoo, wipe down with Isopropyl Alcohol and distilled water, prepsol, or using an AIO product.

Hope this helps,

George
 
  #809  
Old 12-10-2008, 08:23 PM
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thanks george
 
  #810  
Old 12-11-2008, 02:29 AM
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My girlfriend gave me this milwaukee polisher that was laying around in her storage for a while, Is this something similiar to the porter cable? can i use the pads you offer? what would i need -see link below for product detail-

http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/weba...192198_192137#
 


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