Hey George,

I have been reading through most of the posts but wanted to get your opinion on detail products that would be suited for my 2003 G35 sedan which is Emerald Mist in color (green metallic). What would be good products to use for this color (i.e. sealant, glaze, wax). I appreciate your assistance and all the help you provide on this forum and I look forward to placing a large order with your site soon.

- Shawn

 

Thanks Asad, can't wait to see your results, looking forward to it!

Shawn, thanks for the post. The first thing I'd recommend is investing in some quality washing and drying products and tools. Improper washing and drying is where most imperfections stem from. By learning the proper techniques, you can minimize the amount of swirls and imperfections added to your paint and keeping your paint looking deeper and wetter, much longer. A good starting point to take a look at would be our washing and drying starter kit.

If you've never used a clay bar on your vehicle, I'd recommend it. Using a clay bar will remove embedded contamination that doesn't come off during a normal wash. By the time your done using a clay bar on your paint, it will feel as smooth as glass and your surface will be properly prepped for polishing, your glaze, sealant and wax. Lately, I've been using the Chemical Guys Fine Grade Clay along with Chemical Guys Synthetic Quick Detailer as my clay bar and lube combo.

Depending on the condition of your paint, polishing is the next step. Polishing will remove imperfections such as swirls, scratches, oxidation, water spots, and more. This is where you achieve the best possible finish for your vehicle. Removing as many imperfections as you possible can is how you make your metallic flakes really pop and gives a very deep and wet looking finish. Polishing is best done with a quality buffer, such as the Porter Cable 7424 or better yet, the Flex XC 3401 VRG. Choosing the proper polish and pad combo is important in achieving the best results, but this all depends on the current condition of your paint. When polishing, you want to invest in a good light source that reveals imperfections. I'd recommend a pair of dual 500W halogen lamps which can be picked up at Sears for around $30. If you need a hand selecting a buffer and polishes, please let me know.

After polishing away as many imperfections then you'd tackle the glaze, sealant and wax steps as you mentioned. For your color paint I'd consider the following:

Glaze - Chemical Guys EZ-Creme Glaze - If you're laying a sealant on top of a glaze, I turn to the CG glaze as I feel sealants bond the best to it. If you were skipping a sealant and just topping with a wax, I would recommend a different glaze.

Sealant - Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109 or M-Seal - If you opt for the CG glaze mentioned above, the CG sealants work very well in combination with their glaze. No point in messing with the synergy and both sealants are excellent options for your color paint.

Wax - This is where deciding can get difficult. I usually break this down by budget as most of the waxes we offer will look outstanding on a properly prepped vehicle, but some will certainly excel more than others. Bang for the buck, until the end of the month, you won't beat Poorboy's Natty's Red for $14.99. P21S Concours Carnauba wax always looked good on metallic colored paint such as Emerald Mist. Another option is our latest addition of waxes, the Dodo Juice line. You could pick up a sample pot of Dodo Juice Supernatural for $29.99 to see what you think before investing a good amount of cash for the full sized jar.

This should give you a good starting point for your new detailing setup. If you have any questions on anything or would like some suggestions for interior care, wheel and tire care, microfiber or anything else, please do not hesitate to ask.

Be sure to keep us posted on what you end up going with and how things turn out for you.

Regards,

George

 

You're the man George. I have been reading a lot about this and am quite the novice so here's my revised game plan with some further interrogation for you. Being that I am such a novice when it comes to detailing I feel I will probably go with the Porter Cable 7424 buffer. If I can get good at this and decide to start a business on the side then maybe it will be beneficial for me to upgrade to the Flex but until then PC appears satisfactory. I have purchasde quite a lot in the microfiber product department (waffle weave towels, multi-purpose towels, etc.) but still am going to pick up a couple grit guards from you guys as well as some more microfiber, ulti-mit, sheepskin mits, wheel & wheel well brushes. Anything I am missing in regards to tools?

Also, I wanted to get your perspective on the use of foam guns (foam cannons I have seen them called some places). Are they really beneficial?

In terms of the polishes I think after all the reading the way to go is the Menzerna line of polishes. I am thinking the IP with an orange light cutting pad if the paint is worse than I can tell and the PO1066f and white pad for the finishing polish. From there what is your interpretation between the 2 CG sealants you mentioned? Will I notice much difference between the M-Seal and the JetSeal? If not, I will probably go with the M-Seal since I'm already approaching $350 or so. For the sealant would you recommend using the blue pad on the PC for application?

If I skip the sealant and go straight to wax what glaze would you recommend in that case? Alternatively, if I skipped the glaze and did a sealant before the wax what sealant would you recommend? I am still somewhat unsure on what the whole benefits of using a sealant vs. a glaze, vice-versa, or using both before the wax. I am basically just wanting a LOT of depth, gloss and for the paint to really pop.

Since you mentioned wheels and tires what products do you recommend for that area? I was thinking of doing the CG line on that as well but unsure what you think is best. Also I get a lot of brake dust on my front wheels so I assume it would be best for me to use the CG wheel sealant after cleaning up the wheels??

For wax I will go with Natty's Red or P21S. I have talked to a lot of guys that think Natty's Red is the best thing since sliced bread for the price. Anything I have missed? I greatly appreciate your attention to all the questions and I apologize for the bombardment of questions I have thrown in your direction. A great mind is a terrible thing to waste though. Thanks again George.

 

Shawn,

Good questions. Investing in a PC or Flex will big a big step in achieving high quality results. If you can go with the Flex at first, I'd recommend it. The time it saves and the improved results pays for the difference within a few uses. If you go with the PC, I'd strongly encourage you to invest in the 4" PC pad kit. Using smaller pads on a PC will help you break polishes down faster and more effectively than with larger pads. This will result in more imperfections removed and with the smaller pads you gain more control, which allows you to get in tighter areas and closer to trim, emblems, etc.

Your list of tools and accessories looks solid. Foam guns and foam cannons are similar. A foam gun attaches to your hose, such as the Gilmour Foamaster II. Foam cannons hook up to pressure washers and produce a thicker layer of foam. The benefit of either is that you can pre-soak your entire vehicle with shampoo, allowing for the surfactants to start helping release contamination without the need of touching your paint with any wash mitt / tool. Basically, it's another preventative measure to minimize adding swirls and other imperfections to your paint. You'd still use the two bucket wash method along with quality wash mitts, so it's an added step to the process. It also can add some fun to the washing process.

The polishes you selected (IP / PO106FF) is a great combo. It will be able to handle removing many imperfections as well as finish down the paint to a very deep wet gloss.

Between the two sealants, Jet Seal 109 seems to give off a little sharper and crisper reflections. In terms of durability, they are pretty similar and both go on and off without much effort. I don't think you'll be disappointed with either one. Blue pad is nice for sealants or you can simply hand apply the sealant if you're sick of using the buffer after your polishing steps.

I find I get the absolute wettest depth and gloss when I skip the sealant, use a pre-wax cleaner (glaze) after polishing and top it with a carnauba wax. The problem with this is that the durability of the protection is expected to last roughly around a month compared to 3 - 6 months when you utilize a sealant. In order to keep your paint properly protected, it's recommended to reapply a coat of wax at least once a month. If you only plan on detailing your vehicle once a season, then a sealant is the way to go. Putting a coat of wax can be done simply after a regular maintenance wash and normally doesn't take much longer than 40 minutes to apply and remove completely.

If you're looking at P21S, then consider the P21S Paintwork Cleanser. I usually try to pair up the wax with the paintwork cleaner as sometimes there is synergy between the two. So if you opted for a Dodo Juice Wax, I'd suggest the Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite glaze. If you opt for Natty's Red, then consider ClearKote Red Moose Glaze. ClearKote RMG offers a very deep and wet looking finish under any carnauba wax, you can't go wrong with it. However, RMG does not play well with sealants, so I only recommend it if you're only going to put on a wax on top.

For wheel and tire care, this is the combination I've been using with great success. I've been turning to P21S Gel Wheel Cleaner as it's safe for virtually any wheel finish. The gel based formula allows it to penetrate verticle surfaces, and the best part about the P21S wheel cleaner is that you can let it dwell for up to two hours. Agitate the wheels with a brush, sponge or mitt and brake dust wipes away effortlessly. We should have the EZ Detail Brush in soon, which is perfect for cleaning the inner barrels of your wheels. We just got in Chemical Guys Sticky Gel Wheel Cleaner, which I haven't personally used yet, but have heard that it's a great alternative to P21S and gets you more bang for your buck since it recommends you dilute it.

For protecting your wheels I turn to Poorboy's Wheel Sealant. This product goes on easy and removes easy. It leaves your wheels super slick with a nice gloss. Maintaining your wheels will be noticeably easier and I typically only use soap and water and a dedicated wash mitt once you've got your wheels protected. I save wheel cleaners for neglected wheels.

For your tires, it's important to properly prep them before applying any dressing. I use P21S Total Auto Wash or Poorboy's APC Bio-Degreaser to prep the tires. For a tire dressing, I enjoy using either Poorboy's Bold 'n Bright for a matte finish to medium gloss or Blackfire Long Lasting Tire Gel for a medium to heavy gloss finish.

I think that answers your questions. If anything else comes up, please do not hesitate to ask. I'm really looking forward to hearing about your results. I can tell you took the time to research a lot and I'm sure everything will pay off with your first detail!

Cheers,

George

 

Very informative as always George. Thanks for all the information and suggestions. Now just gotta raise a few more funds and finalize my choices with this new knowledge. I appreciate your help very much.

- Shawn

 

George,

I have a couple of fairly simple question but searched and did not find what I was looking for. First off I just purchased a 2008 g35 and have been reading on some posts that infiniti coats their leather with something so it is almost useless to condition the leather. Is this true? Second, I have had cars with leather in the past and they inevitably crack in a fairly short amount of time. I imagine my new G will be no exception. The question I have is how often should I clean and/or condition the leather. One important thing to mention is that I live in Houston which consistently gets triple digit temperature in the summer and has temps into the 80s well into november and sometimes even december. Thanks in advance

oldskool

 

Good questions oldskool. Yes, most new leather is coated leather, which means that some of the deeper penetrating conditioners are just not needed in the beginning of the leathers life. Over time, as the coating begins to wear and open up its pores, then you can treat the leather with a deeper conditioning product. For new leather, I suggest Poorboy's Leather Stuff. It's a great 1 step product that gently cleans, lightly conditions, UV protects and has a pleasant leather scent to it. It's perfect for coated leather and will not leave your seats feeling slippery or shiny. I'd recommend reapplying Leather Stuff every couple months. For regular dust and grime, I typically just wipe down the seats with a microfiber towel.

The other big thing to prevent cracks and creases besides lack of care, is to be conscious of how you get in and out of the seat. You want to avoid sitting on the bolster and try to step up directly into the middle of the seat.

If you have any other questions on anything, let me know.

George

 

George,

Which quick detailer would you recommend to remove water spots and dirt in general without stripping the wax and/or sealant? My car frequently get water spots from the sprinklers and there is not way to avoid it because they're all around. It would be an added plus if the quick detailer can add some form of gloss or protection as well.

Thanks

 

If you're looking for more of an all in one solution of a quick detailer with cleaners as well as a gloss enhancer + protection, then consider Chemical Guy's ONE. This is one of the most complete 1 step products I've come in contact with and it does a great job. I simply mist the product onto a panel or into a towel, spread it with a microfiber towel. It will form a haze because of the protective properties in it, and once it hazes over, then take a clean microfiber towel and buff to a streak free finish. Poorboy's Spray & Wipe is a great cleaning quick detailer, but doesn't offer any protective characteristics or gloss enhancers.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

 

Does anyone know how to fix my inside door handle? It is chipped and I was wondering if there was interior paint or i could just get another panel? I know there is i'm just wondering where to get it and how to do it! Here are pictures of my door:





Thanks!

 

^^ I'd suggest taking it to Infiniti for replacement under warranty.

Also wondering if anyone has any tips on buffing out/blending a small scuff on the dashboard (black) - right on the upper glove box. The scuff is not that noticeable and you can't feel it (only visible under certain lighting conditions). Regular armor all doesn't seem to have any effect on it.

 

I'd also go with reidr96's recommendation on getting the part replaced under warranty or simply ordering a new one. I'm not too familiar with painting interior trim unfortunately.

I usually use some elbow grease with a good APC and microfiber towel. If you need to agitate it some more, I use a medium bristled brush while working in the APC. Sometimes heating up the surface can help reshape vinyl, but be careful as you could potentially make things worse using a heat gun / hair dryer. I'd consult a professional before attempting vinyl repair.

George

 

Need another hand please sir. I've really enjoyed your advice - which is dead on - as well as the menzerna products + pads & towels you've suggested. I'm running into a problem lately that I can't seem to correct. I've been using a handwash company due to our drought in the Southeast. In the past I let them use their towels for the washes but do not have it wiped down afterward. Lately, I take my own mits in for the guys to use.

I've noticed what I can best describe as 'clouding' in the finish. I call it that because that what they look like on white paint. I went through the routine of 106ff & fpII with alky wipes in between & have removed minor swirls with a nice gloss. The 'clouds' tho still remain .... what can I do ?

 

Normally, I'd recommend a chemical polish to rid of oxidation on paint, however, if you're saying that some 106 or FPII didn't remove the cloudiness, I'm not sure if a non-abrasive chemical cleaner will do any better. It's good that you're bringing your own mitts to the wash, but perhaps it's the shampoo or cleaning solution they are using on your paint that is causing the cloudiness to appear. If you have some Klasse AIO or something equivalent around, I'd give that a shot to see if it helps clear things up. Another option is to use a more aggressive polish than either of the two you've mentioned. In the grand scheme of things, they are probably only a 3 out of 10 in terms of aggressiveness. What color pads have you tried?

Hopefully we can figure out the issue on your paint and get things cleared up for you.

George

 

Hi George what a wealth of information you've been. I've read just about every post since you first introduced yourself. With so many combinations for products to use and colors of cars I wanted to ask your opinion on what my research has provided thus far. First I purchased the Detailed Image wash kit, AP303, P21S and PB wheel sealant. Now I'm ready for the investment of the rest of the products for my black 04 G35.The car was just purchased used and there is a need to rid the swirls and light scrathes.
PC7424 kit
Clay Bar = CG fine grade
Polish = PO106FF do I need a finishing polish?
Glaze = CG EZ creme
Sealant = ? do I need?
Wax = PB Natty Blue or CG 50/50?
Leather = PB leather stuff
Am I missing anything? Oh, one more issue. What can you suggest to rid the tiny (pin head size) chips in the paint? Probably from small rocks. In advance thanks for you've done. Not sure my wife appreciates all the time I now spend on my car but it's a great feeling of pride when you do it right.