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#796
Hi George
I am new to this and after reading reviews of different products I have bought these products and I am planning to do the following
Step 1 - Wash
Step 2 - clay
Step 3 - Klasse AIO
Step 4 - Klasse SG ( 4 layers)
Step 5 - P21S concourse paste wax ( 3 layers)
My question is,
Can I use Klasse AIO, Klasse SG and p212 wax on glass windows, windshield, trim and headlamp/tail lights?
Thanks
I am new to this and after reading reviews of different products I have bought these products and I am planning to do the following
Step 1 - Wash
Step 2 - clay
Step 3 - Klasse AIO
Step 4 - Klasse SG ( 4 layers)
Step 5 - P21S concourse paste wax ( 3 layers)
My question is,
Can I use Klasse AIO, Klasse SG and p212 wax on glass windows, windshield, trim and headlamp/tail lights?
Thanks
#798
Originally Posted by yourdoinitwrong
I have finally gotten done using all the products I purchased from Detailed Image on my Twilight Blue 04 Coupe. Being almost 5 years old with 65k on it, the paint is not perfect but the products George recommended made a huge difference and the car looks as good as it possibly can. Following is what I did.
1 - Menzerna Intensive Polish
2 - Menzerna PO106ff
(Trip to Jimmy Buff-It's to have them use a rotary for some deeper scratches)
3 - Chemical Guys EZ Creme Acrylic Glaze
4 - Chemical Guys Jetseal 109 (2 coats)
5 - Natty's Red
Before buying the G I didn't even know it was possible to use so many different chemicals on a car! However, since I really love my car I wanted it to look as good as possible so I went for it. This was definitely a LOT of work, at least to me, but it was definitely worth it. I just wanted to say thanks to George for taking the time to thoroughly and patiently answer my questions and recommend the right products. He could have just told me to buy all the most expensive things they sell to make some more money but he was honest and advised me on products that worked great but didn't put me any further in the poor house than I already am. In fact, I was so impressed that I have ordered some things from DI for the dealership I work at to clean and shine up our Corvettes. I know I should put some pics up here but I don't know how get the photos on here that are large enough to see. Anyhow, thanks George!
1 - Menzerna Intensive Polish
2 - Menzerna PO106ff
(Trip to Jimmy Buff-It's to have them use a rotary for some deeper scratches)
3 - Chemical Guys EZ Creme Acrylic Glaze
4 - Chemical Guys Jetseal 109 (2 coats)
5 - Natty's Red
Before buying the G I didn't even know it was possible to use so many different chemicals on a car! However, since I really love my car I wanted it to look as good as possible so I went for it. This was definitely a LOT of work, at least to me, but it was definitely worth it. I just wanted to say thanks to George for taking the time to thoroughly and patiently answer my questions and recommend the right products. He could have just told me to buy all the most expensive things they sell to make some more money but he was honest and advised me on products that worked great but didn't put me any further in the poor house than I already am. In fact, I was so impressed that I have ordered some things from DI for the dealership I work at to clean and shine up our Corvettes. I know I should put some pics up here but I don't know how get the photos on here that are large enough to see. Anyhow, thanks George!
Originally Posted by achanna
Hi George
I am new to this and after reading reviews of different products I have bought these products and I am planning to do the following
Step 1 - Wash
Step 2 - clay
Step 3 - Klasse AIO
Step 4 - Klasse SG ( 4 layers)
Step 5 - P21S concourse paste wax ( 3 layers)
My question is,
Can I use Klasse AIO, Klasse SG and p212 wax on glass windows, windshield, trim and headlamp/tail lights?
Thanks
I am new to this and after reading reviews of different products I have bought these products and I am planning to do the following
Step 1 - Wash
Step 2 - clay
Step 3 - Klasse AIO
Step 4 - Klasse SG ( 4 layers)
Step 5 - P21S concourse paste wax ( 3 layers)
My question is,
Can I use Klasse AIO, Klasse SG and p212 wax on glass windows, windshield, trim and headlamp/tail lights?
Thanks
Hope this helps.
Originally Posted by Karma
Quick question, should I have the removable counter weight screwed on my 7424 when using the 4'' pads?
Thanks
Thanks
George
#799
Hi. I would like to know your experience and recommendations as to removing concrete splatter from a car. I recently was able to remove a considerable (it looked almost irrepairable) amount of splatter with hydrochloric acid used to remove concrete and grout from tiles, after obviously trying it in an inconspicuous area. The affected areas were the rear quarter panel, glass, trunk, wheel, taillamp and roof. Thankfully, I was able to do it without damaging or scratching the paint, even though I had to do some thorogh scrubbing in some areas. Afterwards I did a thorough descratching, cleaning, polishing and waxing which was also long overdue.
#800
Originally Posted by Doc_Yizz
Hi. I would like to know your experience and recommendations as to removing concrete splatter from a car. I recently was able to remove a considerable (it looked almost irrepairable) amount of splatter with hydrochloric acid used to remove concrete and grout from tiles, after obviously trying it in an inconspicuous area. The affected areas were the rear quarter panel, glass, trunk, wheel, taillamp and roof. Thankfully, I was able to do it without damaging or scratching the paint, even though I had to do some thorogh scrubbing in some areas. Afterwards I did a thorough descratching, cleaning, polishing and waxing which was also long overdue.
Sounds like you tackled the problem properly though. First remove the concrete from the paint, then I'd clay bar to ensure there are no remains of the concrete, polish to remove any imperfections from the scrubbing and removing the concrete, re-protect with a sealant and or wax.
How does the car look now? Any remains or permanent damage to the car?
George
#801
I still have to remove several specks of concrete, but I'm sure they will come out without problems since they're very small, which is the reason I didn't see them the first time. I honestly thought that the paint would get scratched beyond repair or that some paint would be removed along with the concrete, but thankfully, none of those happened. Of course, if that had been the case, the contractor responsible for the damage would have to fork out the price of a new paint job.....
#802
Hello George,
I just ordered the advanced PC kit - quick question about the polishing process I will be using.
So I know we do a test panel first and start with the least aggressive product first - here is my order:
Start with a white pad using PO106ff. If that doesn't work, then bump up using an orange pad. If that doesn't work, then orange pad using SIP P083. I'm assuming after that combo, the marks will be gone. So, do I finish with a finsihing polish (PO106ff)? Is there something that I am missing or that you recommend?
Thanks!
I just ordered the advanced PC kit - quick question about the polishing process I will be using.
So I know we do a test panel first and start with the least aggressive product first - here is my order:
Start with a white pad using PO106ff. If that doesn't work, then bump up using an orange pad. If that doesn't work, then orange pad using SIP P083. I'm assuming after that combo, the marks will be gone. So, do I finish with a finsihing polish (PO106ff)? Is there something that I am missing or that you recommend?
Thanks!
#803
Originally Posted by Doc_Yizz
I still have to remove several specks of concrete, but I'm sure they will come out without problems since they're very small, which is the reason I didn't see them the first time. I honestly thought that the paint would get scratched beyond repair or that some paint would be removed along with the concrete, but thankfully, none of those happened. Of course, if that had been the case, the contractor responsible for the damage would have to fork out the price of a new paint job.....
Originally Posted by lmulion03
Hello George,
I just ordered the advanced PC kit - quick question about the polishing process I will be using.
So I know we do a test panel first and start with the least aggressive product first - here is my order:
Start with a white pad using PO106ff. If that doesn't work, then bump up using an orange pad. If that doesn't work, then orange pad using SIP P083. I'm assuming after that combo, the marks will be gone. So, do I finish with a finsihing polish (PO106ff)? Is there something that I am missing or that you recommend?
Thanks!
I just ordered the advanced PC kit - quick question about the polishing process I will be using.
So I know we do a test panel first and start with the least aggressive product first - here is my order:
Start with a white pad using PO106ff. If that doesn't work, then bump up using an orange pad. If that doesn't work, then orange pad using SIP P083. I'm assuming after that combo, the marks will be gone. So, do I finish with a finsihing polish (PO106ff)? Is there something that I am missing or that you recommend?
Thanks!
You'll be pleased with the outcome of that combination. Keep us posted on how things turn out.
Regards,
George
#804
Flex vs PC
Hi George,
Thanks for the response - quick question regarding the flex polisher you sell. I've been reading and have come down to two conclusions - it has more correcting ability power and is faster comparing to the PC. So, I'm a newbie and have never polished before. I was going to practice on some junk yard parts. WOuld you recommend the flex over the pc for a beginner? Also, I know for the PC there are settings - for instance, set it to 3 to apply the polish and then increase to 5 or 6 to work it in. Is there something similar on the Flex?
Thanks again.
Thanks for the response - quick question regarding the flex polisher you sell. I've been reading and have come down to two conclusions - it has more correcting ability power and is faster comparing to the PC. So, I'm a newbie and have never polished before. I was going to practice on some junk yard parts. WOuld you recommend the flex over the pc for a beginner? Also, I know for the PC there are settings - for instance, set it to 3 to apply the polish and then increase to 5 or 6 to work it in. Is there something similar on the Flex?
Thanks again.
#805
#806
Originally Posted by lmulion03
Hi George,
Thanks for the response - quick question regarding the flex polisher you sell. I've been reading and have come down to two conclusions - it has more correcting ability power and is faster comparing to the PC. So, I'm a newbie and have never polished before. I was going to practice on some junk yard parts. WOuld you recommend the flex over the pc for a beginner? Also, I know for the PC there are settings - for instance, set it to 3 to apply the polish and then increase to 5 or 6 to work it in. Is there something similar on the Flex?
Thanks again.
Thanks for the response - quick question regarding the flex polisher you sell. I've been reading and have come down to two conclusions - it has more correcting ability power and is faster comparing to the PC. So, I'm a newbie and have never polished before. I was going to practice on some junk yard parts. WOuld you recommend the flex over the pc for a beginner? Also, I know for the PC there are settings - for instance, set it to 3 to apply the polish and then increase to 5 or 6 to work it in. Is there something similar on the Flex?
Thanks again.
Picking up a Flex is just as easy as picking up a PC, both are paint safe, the Flex just has a lot more power and potential for faster and more effective paint correction. The variable speed trigger on the Flex is a great feature because you can set it at speed 5, spread it at a low speed by not applying as much pressure on the trigger, then kick it up to full speed with a firmer squeeze of the trigger. You can also lock in a speed by using the speed lock button. I personally enjoy the ergonomics of the Flex over the PC, however the only downside of the Flex is you cannot use smaller pads (yet).
If the Flex is within your budget, it's the smarter move. The time and energy saved even with your first full detail pays for the difference in price, not to mention the better results you'll have.
If you have any other questions on either unit, please do not hesitate to ask.
Enjoy the rest of your weekend.
George
#808
Originally Posted by indef35
Do you need to use a pre wax cleaner after polishing with 106ff?
Hope this helps,
George
#810
My girlfriend gave me this milwaukee polisher that was laying around in her storage for a while, Is this something similiar to the porter cable? can i use the pads you offer? what would i need -see link below for product detail-
http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/weba...192198_192137#
http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/weba...192198_192137#