is wheel wax on sale by chance :P

 

^want to keep them new wheels Purty! Very NICE!

 

^ yea but i have a couple of things i need to do.. front lip, drop, OEM emblemless grille, wheel wax, dynamat my trunk, get my topspeed exhaust fixed by a muffler shop so it hangs right and maybe put an extra resonator/muffler in to quiet it a bit

 

George .... do waxes such as p21 or 50/50 need to be 'broken down' when applying, similar to polishes ?
Just wondering if there is any benefit to it.

 

I just have a quick question. I just washed clayed washed my car and started to polish the hood with, Porter Cable 7424 and a green ccs pad with Menzerna intensive polish. I worked it in several passes and there is still slight swirl marks.
My question is should i opt for a orange pad or another polish thanks lmk rob

 

Everything will be back in rotation tomorrow as Buffer Week is ending.

Nope, no benefit to applying pressure to waxes. Basically looking for very thin applications that usually requires as little pressure as possible.

Rob, if there was improvement with the IP/Green combo, then you could try the orange pad for slightly faster results. Sometimes it takes multiple applications to get the desired results you are looking for. If there was little to no improvement with the combo, then consider moving up to a more aggressive polish and pad combo, such as Power Gloss and orange or yellow pad.

Hope this helps.

George

 

I have a black G35 obviously. I have done everything from washing it in the shade, to towel drying it, to driving it 80 mph to get the water off, I always seem to get a water spot in a random place. any help?

 

It sounds like you may want to look into a water purification system if you have problems with water spots. Sometimes a quick wipe down with a microfiber towel and a quick detailer solution will help remove any mineral deposits left behind. One of the best water purification options is the CRSpotless system. If you have any other questions, let me know.

George

 

i use lexol but my leather seats are wrinkled like a ****! anything i can use to fix this problem?

 

Sometimes laying a damp cloth over the wrinkled areas and keeping it there as the sun creates a sauna effect on your leather can reduce the visibility of cracks, creases, etc. Heat is the key.

George

 

ok so im trying to find on what pad and or pads to use for my car.... is there a website that might help me break down each pad to decide what to go with and speed reccomendations( i read the how to on detailed image.com and it says to go with pad of choise)? or just suggestions? products i have...The PC starter kit, 106ff polish, CG EZ cream glaze, Jet seal, and CG 50/50...........the car has its fair share of swirls and the hood was freshly painted and has some wet sand marks.......



anthony

 

Anthony,

Here is the Lake Country Pad layout:

• Yellow - Most cut (Compound/Aggressive Polish).
• Orange - Moderate cut (Aggressive Polish).
• White - Light cut (Finish polish).
• Black - Very light cut (Glazes/Waxes)
• Blue - No cut (Waxes/Sealants).

 

i just recently purchased a pc7424, menzerna sip, po106ff, klasse aio and klasse hgsg. and i have a couple of questions.

i have a black g35 with some hollowing and i was planning on using this method: please correct me if im wrong or i should add stuff.

CG citrus wash - to strip whats on
claybar
then i'll be using pc7424 with lake country orange pad for the SIP
then po106ff with lake country white pad,
klasse aio with lake country white pad,
and finally klasse HGSG with lake country black pad or should i use blue? (or by hand) not sure which one yet..

my question is, would i need to wait after i finished using sip to apply po106ff? and is it necessary to apply AIO after po106 or should i just go straight to the HGSG?

 

Anthony,

For the products you mentioned, I'd go with the following.

PO106FF - White polishing pad
CG EZ Cream Glaze - Black finishing pad
Jet Seal - Blue fine finishing pad
CG 50/50 - hand applied with foam applicator pad

The PO106FF and white pad combo may not be aggressive enough for deeper swirls and certainly not wet sanding marks. You'll probably want to pick up a more aggressive polish, such as Super Intensive Polish or regular Intensive Polish to get those marks out. Depending on what grit they finished wet sanding with, perhaps even Power Gloss Compound too.

I'd use an orange pad with either Intensive Polish and a yellow pad if you need to go as aggressive as Power Gloss.


Your process looks great, you'll be extremely pleased with your results. When I apply a sealant or wax with a buffer, I always opt for the softest pad, which would be the blue pad. The black pad would work as well, but if I had a choice, I'd use the blue pad.

There's no wait time between polishing stages, you can go right from SIP to using PO106FF. The only time you need to wait is when you're layering a sealant for multiple coats, you're layering a wax for multiple coats, or your putting a wax on top of a sealant. Basically when you put down a protective layer, you should allow that coat to cure before applying another coat on top of it.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

 

QUOTE=Detailed Image]Anthony,

For the products you mentioned, I'd go with the following.

PO106FF - White polishing pad
CG EZ Cream Glaze - Black finishing pad
Jet Seal - Blue fine finishing pad
CG 50/50 - hand applied with foam applicator pad

The PO106FF and white pad combo may not be aggressive enough for deeper swirls and certainly not wet sanding marks. You'll probably want to pick up a more aggressive polish, such as Super Intensive Polish or regular Intensive Polish to get those marks out. Depending on what grit they finished wet sanding with, perhaps even Power Gloss Compound too.

I'd use an orange pad with either Intensive Polish and a yellow pad if you need to go as aggressive as Power Gloss.




Your process looks great, you'll be extremely pleased with your results. When I apply a sealant or wax with a buffer, I always opt for the softest pad, which would be the blue pad. The black pad would work as well, but if I had a choice, I'd use the blue pad.

There's no wait time between polishing stages, you can go right from SIP to using PO106FF. The only time you need to wait is when you're layering a sealant for multiple coats, you're layering a wax for multiple coats, or your putting a wax on top of a sealant. Basically when you put down a protective layer, you should allow that coat to cure before applying another coat on top of it.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George[/QUOTE]


Thanks for the quick reply! I must say on, on top of the great prices, your excellent customer service(all aspects, billing and reccomendations) is really what pushed me to buy from detailed image.... now if this tropical storm will leave and give me a day of no rain i can try out the products