Paint and overspray usually came be removed when treated properly. I'd first start by using a clay bar, perhaps a medium grade bar, then following up with an abrasive polish (preferably with a quality buffer) to remove any marring from the clay. If that doesn't do the trick, then you can look into some more aggressive methods, but that's where I'd start.

George

 

Thanks George!

 

here you go it allready started to get a little dusty again but its a lot cleaner then what it was. i use 303 for every thing infact i used 303 cleaner to clean the enginebay

 

Hey George,
Can you please recommend a sealant and wax combination for an athens blue colored G35? I appreciate all the info you've shared with all of us. Take care.

 

hey George,

I haven't had time to read all 45 pages of this thread, but when claying a vehicle like a G35 Sedan, what size bottle of a lubricant should be used? I have never clayed a vehicle, my dads matrix needs a clay BAD! My moms G35 could use one same with my sisters car. I'm guessing I should buy three bars of clay (100 grams). But for lubricant, I don't know how long one bottle would last me. A recommendation would be nice, thanks George.

 

G'dxUP - thanks for sharing, looking good

Athens Blue is a beautiful color when detailed properly. I think something like Jet Seal 109 topped with 50/50 Concourse wax would look great on AB. A great bang for the buck combo would be Poorboy's EX-P (which is our deal of the day today 6.17.08) topped with Natty's Blue Paste Wax.

I typically use around 4 ~ 5 ounce of product to clay a mid sized vehicle. I typically use Poorboy's Spray & Wipe as my clay lube, which is nice because it's offered in gallon sizes to get a better value. When using a clay bar the last thing that you want to do is not use enough clay lube. I find using the product in a smaller 4 oz pump spray bottle maximizes the efficiency more than in a standard trigger spray.

Hope this helps.

George

 

Quick question about polish/pad combinations.

I just polished my GF's car which is a 05 Mazda 3. It has probably only been washed in dollar washes, but it is washed about once a week (Car had never been detailed)

The swirls were pretty bad, but nothing crazy.
I first tried PB 2.5 on white- no results
PB 2.5 on orange - no results.
PB 3.0 on orange - decent results

I assume 3.0 on yellow would take them all out for sure, but I didn't want to cut that deep on a almost new car.
Question being, is it alright to use 3.0 and a yellow? Or should you try and stay away from that aggressive combo and live with so so results

Also, what speed should you apply wax with on a blue pad and a PC?

Sean

Edit: one more question: how many times over can you use the same bar of clay? So far I have used the same bar on three different cars.

 

George, Do you know any pro detailers in south florida. Im looking for a pro in my area. I called a few people and they have no idea about anything i ask them from this thread. All they know is clay and wax,(its very disapointing they call themselves pro's). Also I just had my rear quater panel and door repainted about 2 months ago and im tring to get a uniform appearance. Should i have the detailer clay the new paint as well? thanks for your help

 

Sean,

Regarding the swirl marks. They will always be there until you're ready for an aggressive polish, whether the car has 1 mile on it or 100,000 miles on it. After you correct the paint, you want to really enforce using the proper washing and drying techniques, otherwise your time and efforts spent will be pretty pointless. The PC reaches a point where you may not be able to get the results you're looking for, you could be at or near that point. It simply does not have the power for complete correction capabilities or you'll be spending hours on hours and coat after coat to do so. If SSR 3 with an orange pad was yielding decent results, you could either do more coats with that combination or try the SSR 3 with a yellow pad. I'm assuming you're running the buffer at full speed (6) and applying moderate pressure to the head of the buffer? Keeping your pad fresh will also help keep the bite as much as possible and yield the best possible results. Make sure you aren't using TOO much product either, that can diminish results. Move the buffer no faster than 1" per second and make between 6 ~ 8 passes over a 12" x 12" area (no larger until you are getting the results you're looking for) before stopping the buffer and removing the excess polish. Those are a few quick tips on getting the most out of polishing with a PC.

I'm not sure what part of south Florida you're in but try PM'ing this guy on the board Joyriide1113, he's in the Miami / Kendall area and does great work. He'll know more than just claying and waxing

If you glide your hand over the new paint and it's rough to the touch, then it can benefit from using a clay bar. If he's not in your area, check the listings on Detail University Find a Detailer or Autopia's New Directory.

Hope that helps you find the right detailer.

George

 

Gang, I'll be away from 6/24/08 until 6/30/08, so any questions you may have, please direct them to our support e-mail for fastest response. I apologize for any inconvenience. The trip is detailing related, so hopefully I can come back with some more insight on how to get your car looking it's best!

Thanks for understanding,

George

 

I'm not sure what part of south Florida you're in but try PM'ing this guy on the board Joyriide1113, he's in the Miami / Kendall area and does great work. He'll know more than just claying and waxing

If you glide your hand over the new paint and it's rough to the touch, then it can benefit from using a clay bar. If he's not in your area, check the listings on Detail University Find a Detailer or Autopia's New Directory.

Hope that helps you find the right detailer.

George[/QUOTE]

George, Yes I spoke with Joyriide1113 but he is really far from me. Im located in Delray beach(Palm Beach County). Im on autopia.org but there search feature is not working. Thanks for the help.

 

I love you the right up and love to see someone with great talent and who isnt biased on certain products.. heres what i got

03 laser red

here's order i take in cleaning:
1. wash and dry - use sponge to wash and dry with absorber (meguiars shampoo and condition)
2. clay bar (meguiars) and dry with microfiber
3. sponge or applicator pad for wax (meguiars color x wax) and wipe with microfiber towel

***bought a swirl removal but dont know when to apply it in my cleaning process***

now... what steps and what products should i use and add into this...dont have to be tooo detailed but just general to grasp the idea and what i should consider buying. dont have a orbital... when do i seal /polish/glaze and what to get?

 

George,

Getting ready to place an order. Could you please recommend a glaze for a silver car and also one that is easy to apply and remove by hand.

Thanks.

 

Hi George,

HELP! I was washing my Baby G and I noticed there was some dried on, caked on bird crap near my sunroof towards the front. It's not very big, about the size of a quarter. I use micro-fiber cloth and Zymol car care kit to care for my car. I was rubbing (ever so lightly) but not putting too much pressure on my car to get the residue off. I guess this bird crap has been on my car for at least 1 or 2 days because I was dusting my car off just on Thursday. I park in an uncovered parking area at work, so the sun must've caked it on good.

I have an '05 G Coupe, Diamond Graphite. The last time I waxed it was in March/April '08 and I wash my car every other week. The bird crap residue is still on there and I don't want to ruin my paint. Any suggestions on removing the residue? Thank you.

 

^ Gerry, your best bet is to use claybar to remove it.