george, i'll be detailing my car soon... i have mezerna's IP and FIPP, but now ordered the power gloss compound to hopefully have more paint correction (IP on yellow wasnt strong enough so i need to step it up)... so my question is: does it matter which sealant i apply??? i considered getting zaino z-cs clear seal but i'd want to confirm that i will not have any issues bonding if i used mezerna's products to do the paint correction... also, could i top zaino z-cs with natty's blue (i have one that i havent used, so i thought perhaps i could use after allowing enough time for the sealant to cure)??? thanks in advance...

 

thanks for everything and ill get back to you with some photos hopefully soon!!

 

Thanks for the post and kind words.

If you had to go with two polishes by hand, I'd opt for Poorboy's SSR 2.5 as your medium cut polish and follow up with Menzerna Final Polish II or better yet, PO106FF. Those would be the two polishes I'd use to remove swirls and imperfections by hand. Remember, to achieve results, you need to exert a good amount of pressure to break down the abrasive particles. It takes a while to get used to and a lot of time and effort, but if you're patient and have enough energy, you can remove some imperfections. In time, I'd recommend looking into investing in a quality buffer, which will not only improve results, but do it in less time with less energy.

Fine grade clay bar is recommended unless you have excessive contamination or paint over spray.

I'd recommend washing and drying at least every 2 weeks to minimize excessive contamination build up. Full details I recommend at least twice a year (usually Spring and Fall). Usually I'll do a mini-detail to reapply sealants on the off seasons. If you're opting for a wax, I'd recommend re-waxing once a month. The key is to make sure your car has protection year round. Sealants last anywhere from 3 - 6 months, where carnauba waxes are roughly 1 month. Any of the waxes you mentioned will look great on Laser Red. Keep us posted on how things turn out for you!

Check the Find-a-Detailer link that Shane posted and you can also check the regional sections on Autopia.org. Keep in mind, if you use a dealership to do the detail (whether it's their guys or an outsourced one), they are going to tack on a significant amount of money to make it worth their while. The dealership I used to do work for would tack on anywhere from $100 - $200+ on a job and pass it along to the customer.

Good questions. To ensure 100% compatibility, what you want to do is after polishing, wipe the car down with some Isopropyl Alcohol and stilled water (50/50 mix). Use it like you would a quick detailer. This will remove any oils that may be remaining on the paint from polishing and will give the sealant of choice maximum durability. After you allow the sealant you choose to cure for 24 hours, you can top it with any wax of your choice.

If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask. Keep us posted on how things turn out for you.

Looking forward to it!

George

 

Hi George,

I hit some sort of platic airmatress or inflatable pool on the highway a few nights ago. From the high impact, some of the colouring has rubbed onto my clearbra. The clearbra is not damaged at all.

Any suggestions on how to remove this? Claybar perhaps?

 

George,
I just used Menz glaze for the first time. I followed up with Z2 sealant. White car just for reference.

I was hoping for a deeper look, still with the hard candy look of the Z2 that I have grown to really like. What I got was sort of a softer look...still as reflective, but still not deep and it lost the plastic look of the Z2.

Did I do something wrong? Am I just asking too much in keeping the Z2 look but trying to get it deeper by adding a glaze to the mix?

 

George,
I just picked up some jetseal 109 from you. On the bottle it says apply 2 coats. Should it be one right after another for a even layer, or 12 hours after the first one cures???

 

You can try using a clay bar, but I have a feeling that might not do the trick. I'd turn to a chemical polish that's safe to use on plastic. I would probably turn to Klasse All In One from what I have in my detailing arsenal. You could also try something like Meguiar's PlasticX, but that is a mild abrasive and I think it could be removed with a non-abrasive chemical polish.

Certain product combinations don't always end up as planned due to the nearly infinite number of variables. From what you described what you were looking for, "...deeper look, still with the hard candy..." I probably would have recommended topping Z2 with a quality carnauba wax rather than going the glaze route. Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze utilizes kaolin clay as their fillers, which makes it more compatible with sealants, but it's not known for leaving behind a super wet look. Something like Clear Kote Red Moose Glaze, is utilizes more oil based fillers, which can give more of an improvement in appearance, but sealants often have a difficult time bonding to it. A lot of detailing is trial and error along with personal preference. Next time you can try a different glaze perhaps or I'd suggest trying the carnauba route on top.

Ideally, you want to wait for the first coat to fully cure, which usually happens around 24 hours. What I do is apply the second coat after my next wash to ensure it has fully cured and you get a thorough cleaning in.

Hope this helps.

George

 

George, I am already a user of FMJ. Is there any wax that I can put on top of it that will look good done by hand? I haven't invested in a PC yet but probably will in the future, just not now. I have an IP for reference.

 

Any wax should be applied via hand. The key benefit to owning a PC (or comparable buffer) is to polish away imperfections. I find that using a buffer to apply a wax simply wastes product and makes the removal of it harder.

P21S Concours Carnauba Wax is a great choice for lighter colored vehicles. Another great option is Poorboy's Natty's Red Paste Wax. If you're looking for something more high end, one of the waxes I have coming in by the end of the month is specific for light pearl and metallic paint. I believe it goes for around $90, not 100% sure off the top of my head.

P21S is a popular option over FMJ, with proven results.

George

 

thanks George. would i apply the wax the same way as I apply the FMJ?

 

Yep, P21S comes with an applicator pad, Natty's does not. Thinner coats the better. I'd recommend removing the coat after every panel or so instead of applying it to the entire car then removing. If you're reapplying FMJ, for maximum results, let it cure for 24 hours before topping it with a wax.

George

 

After letting the FMJ cure for 24 hrs, when I go back to put on wax, is it okay to go over the car with QD before I add some wax on it? The car is garage kept but im sure some dust will accumulate within 24hrs.

 

Yep perfectly fine!

 

Before I place my order, is P21S okay to use on my clear bra? I have Plexus already and usually just apply some plexus then FMJ on top of it.

 

Yep, if you're putting it over the FMJ, no problems what so ever. It can go on top as well, but probably best over the sealant.

George