My last attempt was SIP w/ yellow + 106ff w/ white & fpII with blue. Passenger side of hood came out a lot better than drivers side.

 

Hi George. I'm thinking about picking up some products for my IP G. I'm looking to get:

CG's EZ Creme Glaze
CG's Jet Seal 109
Concours P21S Wax

Can all of this will be applied by hand(the wax for sure)? I'll of course have washed and clayed my car. Do your recommend anything else to help my car shine?

Thanks and take care

 

Thanks for the post and kind words

It looks like you've done a good amount of research already and you'll notice some huge improvements in your level of detail next time around.

You'll enjoy the PC kit, it's an essential tool to any serious detailer. I would recommend looking at the 4" pad kit to go along with it. It comes in handy in tight spaces as well as being able to offer you some more cut on stubborn paint imperfections.

PO106FF would act as your finishing polish, it finishes down finer than just about every other polish we have to offer. I would recommend investing in a medium cut polish to use before the PO106FF. 106 will remove light imperfections, but it's by no means a strong polish. For medium or deeper imperfections, it won't put a dent in them with the Porter Cable. I'd suggest partnering it up with something like Menzerna Intensive Polish or better yet Super Intensive Polish. I'd suggest using 106 with a white polishing pad and either Intensive Polish with an orange light cutting pad.

You don't necessarily need a sealant after the glaze and before the wax as long as you realize that most waxes last anywhere from 4 - 8 weeks. You want to reapply another coat before the previous coat of protection wears off. By using the sealant, you're looking between 3 - 6 months, so even if you slip up on your wax application, your paint still has some protection. If you're going to go with the CG EZ-Creme Glaze (good choice), I'd pair it up with one of the CG sealants, either M-Seal or Jet Seal 109.

Any type of deeper imperfection, rock chips, scratches, etc. basically would require a touch up. If you take your time, apply the paint thin, let it cure, wet sand it down, polish out the wetsanding marks, it can come out pretty decent. The problem most people have when they perform touch ups is they never wet sand it even to the level of the paint. I'd suggest finishing as fine as possible, with 2500 grit or finer.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask! Can't wait to hear about your first full detail experience!

Try to monitor what is bringing back the hazing. It could be some sort of chemical (or combination of) they are using at the hand wash causing your paint to cloud. Pretty soon you may be bringing them everything they use. Keep me posted.

Thanks for the post. That combination of products can all be applied by hand and should look very sharp on IP.

After washing and claying your car, you could opt to polish your paint. This is the step that will remove surface imperfections, such as swirls, light scratches, water spots, and more. This step is what really brings out the maximum depth and gloss in the paint. Luckily on IP, the color can help mask these imperfections compared to say a jet black color. You could consider throwing in a light polish such as Menzerna PO106FF for some added depth and gloss and to rid some of those light imperfections. If you're going for a full correction, I'd highly recommend investing in a quality buffer, however, for a finishing polish you can get some decent results by hand (although very tedious).

If you have any other questions on anything, be sure to let us know.

Keep us posted on how everything turns out, I'd love to see some pics.

George

 

Thanks George! How difficult is the jetseal to apply by hand compared to say wax? The polish is a great idea but that's too much elbow grease for me haha! I might get a flex later on though... I plan to put 2 coats of glaze, 2 coats of seal, and then top off with 2 coats of wax allowing time to cure for each product. Is this correct?

Thanks again George!

 

Jet Seal is very easy to work with, especially if you apply it thinly, which is how it should be applied. The multiple coats of glaze would not require any cure time, simply apply them one on top of another. You can also put on your first coat of Jet Seal after the glaze. Once the first coat of sealant is applied, it'd be best to wait 24 hours before applying the second coat. Before you apply your first coat of wax, you should wait 24 hours for the 2nd coat of sealant to cure. Waxes usually don't require the entire 24 hours, but I simply apply the second coat the next time you wash your vehicle for simplicity. I'd give it at least 12 hours though before applying the second coat for optimal results.

If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask. Keep us posted on how everything turns out!

Cheers,

George

 

Just placed an order with you George! Thanks for all the help!

Take care

 

Here's a crappy pic from the other night when I finished the first detail phase. I still need to do the wheels, mufflers and interior.

PO106FF
FMJ
Natty's Red

 

Thanks! We greatly appreciate your support!

Tim, can't wait to see the finished job!

George

 

George, as the others have said, thank you for all of the information you have put out there for us. I know we have all learned quite a bit. I will give you my scenario here and see what you would recommend for me. I recently purchased a 2004 Twilight Blue G35 Coupe. The paint is in good shape with only light swirls in it. So far I have used a paint cleaner and then a clay bar to remove all the surface contaminants. From what I understand my next step will be a polish. Due to the money I have spent on other things on the car I will be doing this by hand because I don't have the funds to purchase a buffer and all the pads and things that I would need even though I understand this would give me the best results. I have spent considerable time on your site looking at the different polishes but I still am not sure of the best one for me. What would you recommend that I use that can be applied by hand, for light swirls? After I do that step I would like to wax the car. I am aware of the glazes and sealants as well but I'm trying to keep this affordable and something that I can complete in a decent amount of time. So after the polish that you recommend for me what hand applied wax would you recommend that I can get for $40 or less? I know that if I had a larger budget and more time there is a lot more that I could do but that is not in the cards right now unfortunately. So to recap, I am looking for recommendations for a hand-applied polish and wax on a reasonable budget. Thanks for your help with this.

 

Thanks for the kind words and thorough explanation of your goals and objectives. If I had to spend $40 on a polish and wax combo, I'd go with the following:

Finishing Polish - PO106FF (which is currently on sale this month for $21.99)
Poorboy's Natty's Red Paste Wax - Best wax I've used for under $25 and will look great on Twilight Blue.

With your 10% off code, you'd be looking at $41.78 before shipping.

You can polish by hand, but please have realistic expectations. You certainly will not remove all the imperfections, but you should remove some and increase the depth and gloss in the paint. I typically do not recommend applying anything more aggressive than a finishing polish by hand because it's often difficult to properly break down larger abrasives found in compounds or even some medium cutting polishes without a buffer. I think that combo should look stunning on your paint. Be sure to keep us posted on how things turn out and your thoughts on the products you end up using.

If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

Regards,

George

 

Thank you for the quick reply! I just submitted my order and I will let you know how it turns out after I get everything but I'm sure your recommendations will be spot-on for what I'm wanting to accomplish.

 

Looking forward to it! Thanks for your support

George

 

Just a quick question George. Can I use CG Extreme VRP for leather?

Thanks and take care!

 

The Chemical Guys website states that V.R.P. is safe to use on leather. I'd use as thin of a coat as possible to maintain that matte finish but also add protection.

Have a great weekend.

George

 

I have gotten much farther into this detailing thing than I thought I would, but since I have made it this far I guess I will go all the way. Quick recap of what I've done.....

1) Paint cleaner
2) Clay bar
3) Mild polish
4) Menzerna PO106FF

I also have the Natty Red that I purchased from you that I have yet to use. I broke down and bought a random orbital after an ill-fated attempt at doing this by hand. What I want to do next is glaze the car, then use a sealant, followed by the Natty Red. My car is Twilight Blue and there are still a few swirls after polishing. What are your recommendations for the glaze and sealant? Thanks.