Hey George, can I use M105 on the windshield to take off water spot?

Plus I tried very aggressive Meguiar clay bar and Stone Tarminator to get rid of rail dusts, but did not work. So wet-sand is the only way right??

Thanks

 

I actually just went backwards through your posts and used them as advise. took me a while cause the weathers been up and down here. The muliti step polish with my orbital+a hand polish, high end 3m glaze, (we have a collision store supplier near my house) then i cleaned it really well and used the Purple Haze followed by Blue Velvet wax...that took care of it thanks. Its like glass now. I do have one question you probably covered before. I love detailing my car, almost do it everyday. I know this isn't a good thing as I'm causing more harm than good. What i usually end up cleaning is road grime and dust. nothing really stuck to the car. What do you think of those wool or microfiber dusters cause i know they'd get the job done but i would think it an easy way to cause scratches?

 

I'd try polishing with M105 or something similar before trying to wet sand your glass. In the event you go too aggressive, you may not be able to remove the wet sanding marks and might have to replace your windshield. don't consider myself an expert on glass repair though. It's not like correcting paint as glass is much harder.

I'm not a fan of any of the dusters. They can potentially mar the finish over time or when used incorrectly. I prefer using a good quick detailer along with a plush microfiber towel. I find it's safer and doesn't take that much more time to maintain. I'd suggest something like Optimum Instant Detailer, Poorboy's Spray & Wipe or Chemical Guys Synthetic Quick Detailer along with a plush microfiber towel.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

 

Question, What is your recommendation for cleaning/polishing neglected stock exhaust tips.

 

George,

I do not have a PC and I do not know how to use one so it is not very high on my list to buy. I know your recommended detail process is Wash -> clay -> wash -> polish -> 50/50 alcohol-water -> glaze -> seal. As of now I wash -> clay -> wash -> wax. This is because I do not own a PC. Can I polish, glaze and seal by hand? If so what is the best method to use?

Thanks!

 

I'm certainly no expert but I have been down the same road before so I thought I would chime in. My process = wash, clay, wash, paint prep spray, polish, pre-wax cleaner spray, glaze, seal, wax. Polishing by hand will not produce the results you are looking for so what I have done is do the first steps and then have the car professionally polished at a detail shop. After that you can continue your process. I hand-apply the glaze, sealant, and wax. I previously asked George if there was a benefit to using a machine for the last three steps and he said there is not and that he also applies those steps by hand sometimes. Hope that helps.

 

Here's a step by step tutorial on restoring exhaust tips.

+1

As yourdoinitwrong mentioned, there is a very big difference in polishing by hand versus using a quality machine. I personally would opt to skip polishing altogether and save up for a machine. You can go through the rest of the process by hand no problems. I personally only use a machine for polishing and paintwork cleaners, but any of my protection steps usually get applied by hand, sometimes glazes as well, depending on which product I'm using. It really boils down to preference.

I'd suggest after claying the paint to use Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze, then layer a sealant on top of that. The CG glaze works great with sealants since it's acrylic based. Some glazes don't play nicely with sealants and can potentially sacrifice the durability.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

 

Hey George, can I use PlasticX for g35 silver plastic trim to get rid of scratch?

 

Certainly worth a shot. Depending on how deep the scratch is will determine if PlasticX can do the job or not. Start with light pressure and add more if needed, you don't want to rub too hard and actually rub off the painted surface. Let us know how it turns out for you.

 

so i just got side swiped (hit and run) and theres paint from the car who hit me (red paint). there are no dents but im trying to figure what is the best way to get the paint off. a list of products and quick instructions will do fine. thanks again

 

What you'd want to do is clay the area to help remove the paint transfer, then follow up with a fine polish to remove any of the light imperfections. Something like our DI Fine Grade Clay followed by Menzerna Power Finish would do the trick. Be sure to follow up with some protection of a sealant or wax after to protect the area you clay and polish.

Hope this helps.

 

I just bought a lot of stuff from DI.. I hope I can do as much as I can.. considering I don't have a buffer (or money for it just yet)...

random question... can the buffer pads be used without the buffer?

i know it wont be as effective but i gotta start somewhere. just more elbow grease right?

 

Hi George,

When should we replace our polishing pads? I have some white LC pads that are chipping at the bottom.

Thanks!

Jesse

 

What exactly is Banana wax and how is that beneficial since it's got other things in it and not just carnauba? is it mainly for lighter/warmer colored cars?

How do you guys like Lexol compared to the leatherique?

Anything you guys recommend for convertible as far as cleaning and protection?

 

The buffer pads wouldn't work without a buffer unfortunately. It'd be nearly impossible to hold and work the product into the paint. There used to be a palm sized adapter you could get for the 4" pads, we're trying to get them made again to stock.

If you're applying products by hand, just stick with the yellow foam applicator pads and work them in with some elbow grease. I'd suggest the Meguiar's M105 / M205 polishes if you're going to be applying them by hand.

If it's chipping at the base, but the face of the pad that actually touches the paint is clean and in tact, you're probably still good to go. The face of the pad should be like new each time you use it. I recommend using multiple pads during a polishing session to keep the face fresher and more uniform throughout a detail, then when it comes to caring for the pads, they last significantly longer since you aren't saturating the pad with product. I typically use between 3 - 5 pads per coat of polish.

Hope this helps.

No wax has JUST carnauba in it, you wouldn't be able to apply it on your paint if it was. The Dodo Juice Banana Armour is specifically formulated for warmer colored vehicles, however it doesn't mean you couldn't use it on any color. The difference on using a color specific wax is pretty minimal in the grand scheme of things, however I will say, the Dodo waxes are very easy to apply and remove, offer very tight water beading, which makes maintaining your paint easier. I don't think you'll be disappointed if you go that route

Lexol is good for maintaining leather in good condition, but when it comes to restoring or rejuvenating leather, they are in a different league. IMO, the one step of Prestine Clean would out perform the two Lexol steps and costs about the same amount. If you're looking for a new leather care product, Leatherique does not disappoint. Here's a good read on what the capabilities of Leatherique are on neglected leather.

Regarding the convertible top, 303 Convertible Top Cleaner works on both vinyl and canvas tops. I'd recommend misting it onto your top, gently agitating the top with a soft bristle brush, then wash as normal. Once dry, you can protect the top with either 303 High Tech Fabric Guard (if top is canvas) or 303 Aerospace Protectant (if top is vinyl).

Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

George