Oh, also, is something like this:
http://www.ultimateautoaccessories.c...JellyBlade.jpg

OK to use, followed by a waffle weave cloth, to dry your car after a wash? Thanks!

 

Yes you can spot treat with the M105 and follow up with the M205 on the entire car. As long as you finish with the same polish it should provide a uniform finish. Yes the polishing steps will remove the micromarring, that's why it's important to polish after claying. A sealant like Blackfire Wet Diamond should protect between 4 - 6 months depending on a lot of factors (garaged, miles driven, weather, how you wash, etc...).

You want to avoid using a water blade, they will add deeper scratches over time and will diminish the durability of your sealant. You want to avoid friction on your paint and that's all the water blades do. If you perform the sheeting technique before drying your car, there isn't much water to soak up with your waffle weave towel. Sheeting technique is using free flowing water from a hose from the top of your car down which will help sheet the water right off your paint. You can effectively remove about 80% or more of the water depending on your technique and what type of protection you have on your paint.

Hope this helps.

 

Sorry, I know I'm spamming this board. last question--what is good to get bird poop off my car? I used quick detailer and rubbed on my old black G35, and it left very visible marring afterwards (I thought it was more poop, but was actually scratching). Also, when I did get bird poop off, there was always a visible outline of where it was on the black car. Wondering what I could use to get it off easily and quickly...

 

Sorry, THIS is the last question (I hope). How much of all this stuff do I need? I got the 8oz version of everything you mentioned, 3 white pads, 1 orange pad, and a regular pad and I'm already up to $85 almost...nearly the price of a professional detail. The main reason I'm getting this stuff is to get out the larger scratches (with the 105 compound) and finish off. After that, hopefully I won't have many deeper scratches in there again so I probably will just do a hand polishing with 205 1ce a year or so.

OH, also, any suggestion as to what kind of clay bar I need to get? And can I use Meguiar's quick detailer as the lube (already have that).

 

I have wheels with an anodized lip. Can you recommend some good product/equipment to give them a mirror shine and remove light scratches?

Thanks

 

A good QD is fine to remove bird droppings, ideally you want to use one that contains more cleaning agents instead of gloss enhancers. Poorboy's Spray & Wipe is a good option for that. Chances are the crap etched your paint and you are going to need to polish it to successfully remove the remains, this you could use the M105 / M205 combo...

A typical coat of polish will use around 2 oz of product on a car like the G. So you'll get a few uses out of each 8 oz bottle. Get the finest clay bar you can, our Ultra Fine Clay would be idea on soft Infiniti paint.

Keep us posted how things turn out for you.

Removing scratches on wheel finishes is very difficult to do without professionally refinishing them. You also have to be careful what is used on anodized finishes. I'd recommend just protecting them with some Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant, which has some mild cleaners and will add protection and some gloss to your wheels, making maintaining them easier in the future.

 

Thank You for you time and advice. I'll be ordering some shortly.

 

Hey George,
So I am about ready to order. I wanted to confirm one last time what I will need to do a full detail of my car. Here is what I have in my cart now (please let me know if that's enough...or if I can omit something to save some money...or if I need to add something. I got 3 white pads and 1 of everything else):

Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 - 8 oz
DI Accessories Polishing Pal
THREE Lake Country White Polishing Pad - 4 inch
DI Accessories Foam Applicator Pad
Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger - 16 oz
Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 - 8 oz
Lake Country Orange Light Cutting Pad - 4 inch
DI Accessories Ultra Fine Clay Bar - 100 g
Lake Country Blue Fine Finishing Pad - 4 inch


I added the blue pad you did not mention before so that I can apply the sealant by hand. Also, when I am applying things by hand, should I be moving in a circular motion?

Also, can I use all the above mentioned products on the chrome trims on the Infiniti? Or are these only made for the paint? If so, what do I use for the trim?

I am a bit nervous about doing this myself but really looking forward to hopefully making my car look close to new.

 

Anytime, let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

Looks like you have what you need for your paint after the washing and drying phase. I think you mentioned before you already had a clay bar lubricant correct? Other than microfiber towels to remove product, you have a great start on your paint.

I wouldn't use the polishes on the chrome trim, I typically use a non-abrasive all in one product, such as Klasse All In One or Dodo Juice Need 4 Speed. This will clean and protect the trim in one step without worrying about wearing down the chrome coating. The Blackfire Wet Diamond is ok to use on the trim, but it won't do anything to clean it up.

Take your time, read some how-to's and work in small areas and you'll be fine. It'll take a while but the results should be worth it. Remember start with light pressure and add more as needed. Monitor your results with a good light source for optimal results and to make sure you aren't damaging the paint.

Keep us posted how things turn out.

 

Hey George,

Thanks again for all your help. I will order tonight. Coming back from vacation on Monday so hopefully I will try to do it some time next week (although I don't have much of a garage so I may have to wait for a cooler, less sunny day (I shouldn't polish in the heat, right?)

When I polish by hand with the m105 compound, especially around the bigger scratched areas, how much pressure should I start with and what should be the max? Also, do I polish in a circular motion or back and forth in a line(this question also applies towards applying the sealant)? How about with the m205?

Finally, when I apply the sealant, do I use the microfiber towels to remove excess immediately after spreading it thin? And do I wipe with the towels firmly or lightly just to get a little bit off? Sorry for all the noob questions. Just don't want to ruin my car :X

 

You're going to need some pressure to get results, but start light and add more as needed. You are going to want some decent lighting to monitor your results, either dual halogen lights or one of the Brinkmann hand held lights.

Assuming that your paint is properly prepped, it shouldn't matter which direction you polish in. If you have contamination on your pad or dirt on your paint, then you can add imperfections in the direction you are working the polish. Typically when you polish you want to work in multiple directions to simulate a random orbital buffer. This will ensure that you are leveling the clear coat from various angles yielding maximum results. This applies to either polish you use. You'll want to wait until it's between 50 - 70 degrees for optimal performance.

You'll want to apply the sealant as thin as possible and use as little pressure to remove it using the microfiber towels.

Keep us posted how it comes out.

 

Hmm...I can't get this to work at all. I put some of the m105 compound on the orange pad after claying the bumper and tried to get out some imperfections and really don't see almost any difference at all. It's pretty dissappointing. I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong--I tried to apply a lot of pressure and it still didn't help much. Any advice? I wish I had friends that have done this before and could help in person haha.

 

are you using a rotary ? m105 is not gonna remove more than light swirls if using by hand but when using a rotary its amazing .

 

Nope...hand. I am considering giving up and getting the car professionally detailed. I already spent $100 on all this stuff...maybe I can return the stuff I didn't use. Probably will only get back like $40 though . I'm too noob to use a rotary buffer. And at this point, I am almost too discouraged to bother :P. I spent forever claying the car only to realize I can't do much with it. I also drove it since I gave up so I'd have to rewash/reclay if I decided to do anything myself anyway.

 

I had a mobile detailer come out and detail my car and after looking at pictures of detailers on this board, he had no idea what he was doing.

I have a ton of this stuff going on (not my car, taken from detaildan thread)


and the detailer told me that its from factory and it could never be removed. Okay, then when I went out to see the finished results, he had all this white wax stuck in rockchip spots on my hood. My car looks worse than it did before on hood, but other spots look cleaner. I only paid him 75bux so I guess I just got a really bad deal on wash. He did use the rotary on it.