Sorry to hear about your situation. It's tough to say what may have caused it, it could be a variety of things. Perhaps there was previous clear coat damage and polish it just revealed it.

If your car is gray, honestly what I'd do is before is when it comes close to turning it in, put a coat of glaze on the paint, something like Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze or Clear Kote Red Moose Glaze. Then top that with a wax. Then try to get the car somewhat dusty / dirty so the paint looks shiny but it's covered in a light layer of grime. I doubt they'd even be able to spot it without a thorough wash and meticulous inspection. The glaze will help mask the imperfection and they will think the car is in great shape b/c of the shine it has.

That's probably your best bet, if the dealership does see it, then perhaps go back to the detailer and see what he can do.

Keep us posted on how things turn out.

 

I have an '07 G 35 Dark Blue. My garage seems to be a habitat for gekos and other critters that I have yet to see. They leave their droppings on the car and they are VERY diffucult to remove. I have clay barred the spots, tried Maguire Light scratch removal polish but i cannot
get the residue off of the paint. Any ideas as to how to remove the spots? The surface is very smooth but the spots remain.

 

Hey George,

A quick question about applying sealant and wax to fresh paint.

I just had my car fixed up at the body shop. What is the proper time to wait until I seal the paint? I asked the owner and he said that if the sealer was petroleum based, wait 6-8 weeks. I use Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze on my car.

I'm not sure if its petroleum based or not. Also he said that it was ok to wax right away. I use P21S.

Any input?

 

If the residue / imperfections still remain, you'll want to continue to keep going more and more aggressive with the polishing. Are you using a buffer or applying it by hand? Chances are if the Meg's scratch remover didn't work by hand you'll have to step up to a buffer for your next attempt. Continue with the path of using the least aggressive approach and only work up to more aggressive options if the combination fails are removing the spots.

Typically you want to wait around 90 days before using a sealant or wax. Either option, regardless if it's petroleum based (which Klasse isn't it's acrylic), acrylic, polymer or carnauba based, there should be a wait time of around 90 days. I'm surprised he said you could wax it right away. Usually what I recommend if you do get some body work done is to wash it as normal, but use a glaze instead until the paint has fully cured. If you seal the paint prior to it being fully cured, you can see some random imperfections begin to form.

The wait time does vary on the body shops technique and process. For example, if they were able to bake the piece prior to installing it on your car, there are some new techniques that have very low cure times. The shop should know best, but his info doesn't seem to line up...

Hope this helps.

George

 

I'll try the buffer approach. Thanks!

 

Hi George,

First off, thank you for being available as a vendor/advisor for g35driver members.

I am just about ready to place an order via your website, but would like to confirm your opinion.

Which of the following would you recommend for a Diamond Graphite G35?

Sealant: Jetseal 109 or Blackfire Wet Diamond?
Wax: Dodo Blue Velvet or Dodo Supernatural?

Thanks a lot in advance George!

 

Hey George,

How well do Leatherique Prestine Clean and Rejuvenator rank among the leather cleaners/restorers?

What's the best way to use them? By hand? With a towel? Use any heat?

Thanks so much!

 

Sounds good, keep us posted on how things turn out for you.

I'd go with the Blackfire Wet Diamond and either of the waxes won't disappoint. Blue Velvet is less expensive and has more of a traditional paste wax feel to it. Supernatural is a semi-soft wax which has a different feel to it. Personally, I'd go with the Blue Velvet and save a little $, I really enjoy Supernatural on red hues. I think you may see a tiny more depth and gloss out of the SN on Diamond Graphite, but not enough to justify the cost difference.

Be sure to keep us posted on how everything turns out once you get a chance to use everything. What are you planning on doing prior to applying the sealant and wax?

IMO the Leatherique products are probably the best leather restoration products out there. Now for regular maintenance for you'll want something else, but for the deepest cleaning, Leatherique is tough to beat. I'd recommend following this Leatherique guide for optimal results. For regular upkeep, consider either Optimum Protectant Plus or Poorboy's Leather Stuff for UV protection and mild cleaning and conditioning properties. Leather Stuff has a great leather scent to it.

Let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with.

All the best,

George

 

Great! Thanks for the input George!

Prior to the sealant and wax, I'll do a wash and clay.
I won't be doing any polish or glaze though.

Speaking of wash, I just ran out my bottle and will be getting the Maxi Suds II from your website as well.

As for the clay bar, I plan to use up the Zaino clay bar that I've bought from 2 year ago. Do clay bars degrade?

Thanks kindly once again!

 

Thanks for the super detailed reply, George. What's wrong with using Leatherique for regular maintenance? Too strong?

 

Sounds good, Maxi Suds II is a great maintenance shampoo. I've had great luck with the new CG Glossworkz shampoo too, you use less product so your bottle stretches even further, but it costs a little more.

If you stored it properly and it didn't harden on you, you should be ok. Prior to use, I'd spray it with the clay lube and reshape it in your hand and soften it up.

Let us know how everything turns out.

Nothing wrong with it, you wouldn't use the Rejuvenator Oil for maintenance, but using the Prestine Clean alone is perfectly fine. The downside to it is the cost I guess. You'd want to use a UV protectant over the Prestine Clean which also brings the cost up and introduces another step. I like to keep the maintenance simple and do a full Leatherique restoration 2 or 3 times a year for optimal results.

Hope that helps.

 

Hi George,

I was trying to put my order through via http://www.detailedimage.com/, but was unsuccessful. The website indicated that international shipping is no longer available.

The website suggested I set my default address to be within the 50 states of US. Currently, I have my default address set to Ontario, Canada. How should I proceed George?

In addition, I am considering ONR instead of Maxi Suds II as my primary washing solution. I am a bit skeptical though. What's your take on ONR as a replacement over traditional hose-washing?

Lastly, if I do choose to go forward with ONR, would you recommend it as a clay lubricant? Or would dedicated lubricants such as Dodo Juice Born Slippery be more recommended?

Thank you,
David

 

Detailed Image,
I have couple water spots and a light blue hazing on my rims, it's a polish finish with clear coat. Is there a way to get rid of it?

 

Unfortunately, we no longer ship internationally. The only way to receive an order from us is to ship to a friend in the states and have them forward it along or to use a freight forwarding company. I apologize for any inconvenience there.

ONR is a great wash option, especially for winter time or to use it as a clay bar lubricant or quick detailer solution to clean up certain messes. ONR washing in proper fashion isn't much different in terms of adding swirls or imperfections as a traditional wash when used properly. The key is to use a good wash media, like a grout sponge, work in small sections and run the sponge over a Grit Guard bucket insert before moving onto the next section. The reasons grout sponges are effective are because they release contamination easily compared to a sheepskin wash mitt or microfiber mitt and they hold a lot of water, which is important during an ONR wash.

If the finish is clear coated you can treat it the same as paint, however, keep in mind that the clear coat on wheels isn't the same as paint, so you want to begin with the least aggressive approach and work your way up. You could start by using a non-abrasive chemical polish, such as Klasse All In One and see if that cleans it up, then work your way up to abrasive polishes, which could help remove the water spots, but depending on what caused the blue hazing, if it's under the clear coat, no polishing option will do any good unless you strip the clear coat and get down to the bare metal then polish using metal polishes. At that point, I'd just recommend getting your wheels professionally refinished rather than tackling it yourself.

Hope this helps.

 

hi i have a question, i recently used eagle one wheel cleaner on my work rims ( big no-no) and have etched into my clear coat.. im kinda bummed about it as my rims dont look as good as they should.. is the only way to fix it to have it recoated with clear?? thanks