Motor Blew on Friday the 13th
#16
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Nice use of the bigger font. It should have only seen 13 psi for a few seconds and lots of other vq's with the vortech and the 2.87 pulley can run that with the stock block just fine.
#17
I have to agree with Adam here ... 13 psi is WAY too high for a stock block!! I am running the stock pulley and peak at just under 6 psi and hit 360+ rwhp. That is more than double the input pressure than I am running.
I follow a thread on my350 about FI on stock blocks and I see it time and again that too much psi = boom, especially on a turbo setup where you hit that max psi at lower rpm's.
The other comments here are all good though, it could have been something as trivial as a bad tank of gas. It could have been an injector failure, run lean in 1 cylinder and detonate = boom. So many variables...
Sorry for your "loss" here, I've been playing this gamble since March of '06 when I bought my G from Randy already boosted with stock injectors/fuel pump/radiator/etc, and no gauges (tracked HARD many times too).
You never expect anything to go wrong when you go to such lengths to create a safe build. At least you know it can be fixed, just sux that you have to spend the extra coin now...
#18
It was late last night so I forgot to start my reply with a sorry about the loss! I was also working as we have a production software deployment this weekend so I was in my "straight up no nonsense facts" mode, sorry if it came out harsh. I know it must feel like total crap.
You can either get another long block/short block as needed, a full long block shouldn't cost more than $1200, you can find rwd vq35DE's for less than that if you look.. or you can go for a built block.
I've done a ton of reading on my350z, and they had two very very good threads that have since gone missing in action, but those threads spoke about stock vs built blocks, and was it worth it. The consensus was that if you go with a built VQ35, you will have issues. Not necessarily BOOM issues, but you will have to tinker with the car constantly moving forward. You just have to decide if the awesome power you can put down is worth it, or not, a totally personal choice imho.
If you go the stock block route, I strongly suggest you start off with a stock pulley, pushing 6-ish psi. Why? Some freak issue with the exhaust/header install causes back pressure making you spike an additional 2 psi? No problem! Bad batch of gas? Still not likely to blow before it can be caught. Injector clogged up? At that psi you can run pretty lean for a short burst and catch it before going boom. At 13psi, anything at all that is wrong.. well you know the rest.
You can either get another long block/short block as needed, a full long block shouldn't cost more than $1200, you can find rwd vq35DE's for less than that if you look.. or you can go for a built block.
I've done a ton of reading on my350z, and they had two very very good threads that have since gone missing in action, but those threads spoke about stock vs built blocks, and was it worth it. The consensus was that if you go with a built VQ35, you will have issues. Not necessarily BOOM issues, but you will have to tinker with the car constantly moving forward. You just have to decide if the awesome power you can put down is worth it, or not, a totally personal choice imho.
If you go the stock block route, I strongly suggest you start off with a stock pulley, pushing 6-ish psi. Why? Some freak issue with the exhaust/header install causes back pressure making you spike an additional 2 psi? No problem! Bad batch of gas? Still not likely to blow before it can be caught. Injector clogged up? At that psi you can run pretty lean for a short burst and catch it before going boom. At 13psi, anything at all that is wrong.. well you know the rest.
#19
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I have to agree with Adam here ... 13 psi is WAY too high for a stock block!! I am running the stock pulley and peak at just under 6 psi and hit 360+ rwhp. That is more than double the input pressure than I am running.
I follow a thread on my350 about FI on stock blocks and I see it time and again that too much psi = boom, especially on a turbo setup where you hit that max psi at lower rpm's.
The other comments here are all good though, it could have been something as trivial as a bad tank of gas. It could have been an injector failure, run lean in 1 cylinder and detonate = boom. So many variables...
Sorry for your "loss" here, I've been playing this gamble since March of '06 when I bought my G from Randy already boosted with stock injectors/fuel pump/radiator/etc, and no gauges (tracked HARD many times too).
You never expect anything to go wrong when you go to such lengths to create a safe build. At least you know it can be fixed, just sux that you have to spend the extra coin now...
I follow a thread on my350 about FI on stock blocks and I see it time and again that too much psi = boom, especially on a turbo setup where you hit that max psi at lower rpm's.
The other comments here are all good though, it could have been something as trivial as a bad tank of gas. It could have been an injector failure, run lean in 1 cylinder and detonate = boom. So many variables...
Sorry for your "loss" here, I've been playing this gamble since March of '06 when I bought my G from Randy already boosted with stock injectors/fuel pump/radiator/etc, and no gauges (tracked HARD many times too).
You never expect anything to go wrong when you go to such lengths to create a safe build. At least you know it can be fixed, just sux that you have to spend the extra coin now...
Thanks again for your sympathy. Kirk
#20
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It was late last night so I forgot to start my reply with a sorry about the loss! I was also working as we have a production software deployment this weekend so I was in my "straight up no nonsense facts" mode, sorry if it came out harsh. I know it must feel like total crap.
You can either get another long block/short block as needed, a full long block shouldn't cost more than $1200, you can find rwd vq35DE's for less than that if you look.. or you can go for a built block.
I've done a ton of reading on my350z, and they had two very very good threads that have since gone missing in action, but those threads spoke about stock vs built blocks, and was it worth it. The consensus was that if you go with a built VQ35, you will have issues. Not necessarily BOOM issues, but you will have to tinker with the car constantly moving forward. You just have to decide if the awesome power you can put down is worth it, or not, a totally personal choice imho.
If you go the stock block route, I strongly suggest you start off with a stock pulley, pushing 6-ish psi. Why? Some freak issue with the exhaust/header install causes back pressure making you spike an additional 2 psi? No problem! Bad batch of gas? Still not likely to blow before it can be caught. Injector clogged up? At that psi you can run pretty lean for a short burst and catch it before going boom. At 13psi, anything at all that is wrong.. well you know the rest.
You can either get another long block/short block as needed, a full long block shouldn't cost more than $1200, you can find rwd vq35DE's for less than that if you look.. or you can go for a built block.
I've done a ton of reading on my350z, and they had two very very good threads that have since gone missing in action, but those threads spoke about stock vs built blocks, and was it worth it. The consensus was that if you go with a built VQ35, you will have issues. Not necessarily BOOM issues, but you will have to tinker with the car constantly moving forward. You just have to decide if the awesome power you can put down is worth it, or not, a totally personal choice imho.
If you go the stock block route, I strongly suggest you start off with a stock pulley, pushing 6-ish psi. Why? Some freak issue with the exhaust/header install causes back pressure making you spike an additional 2 psi? No problem! Bad batch of gas? Still not likely to blow before it can be caught. Injector clogged up? At that psi you can run pretty lean for a short burst and catch it before going boom. At 13psi, anything at all that is wrong.. well you know the rest.
#21
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iTrader: (114)
The only consensus, per say, is that:
1) sleeves are bad news for vq35de's and
2) issues will start to happen when you go for big HP (650+)
Yes its still a gamble but if you build it right and have the right supporting mods the odds are extremely in your favor for a solid 400-550 whp.
There will always be more maintenance and upkeep with FI, but thats just part of the game. If you don't want that trade it in for a big V8
Last edited by seymore4; 11-21-2009 at 07:06 PM.
#22
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I've done a ton of research too (not just online) and know of no such consensus. I'm currently building my block for 500 whp and don't expect any big issues, neither does my tuner, mechanic, or friends who've done it before.
The only consensus, per say, is that:
1) sleeves are bad news for vq35de's and
2) issues will start to happen when you go for big HP (650+)
Yes its still a gamble but if you build it right and have the right supporting mods the odds are extremely in your favor for a solid 400-550 whp.
There will always be more maintenance and upkeep with FI, but thats just part of the game. If you don't want that trade it in for a big V8
The only consensus, per say, is that:
1) sleeves are bad news for vq35de's and
2) issues will start to happen when you go for big HP (650+)
Yes its still a gamble but if you build it right and have the right supporting mods the odds are extremely in your favor for a solid 400-550 whp.
There will always be more maintenance and upkeep with FI, but thats just part of the game. If you don't want that trade it in for a big V8
#23
I've done a ton of research too (not just online) and know of no such consensus. I'm currently building my block for 500 whp and don't expect any big issues, neither does my tuner, mechanic, or friends who've done it before.
The only consensus, per say, is that:
1) sleeves are bad news for vq35de's and
2) issues will start to happen when you go for big HP (650+)
Yes its still a gamble but if you build it right and have the right supporting mods the odds are extremely in your favor for a solid 400-550 whp.
There will always be more maintenance and upkeep with FI, but thats just part of the game. If you don't want that trade it in for a big V8
The only consensus, per say, is that:
1) sleeves are bad news for vq35de's and
2) issues will start to happen when you go for big HP (650+)
Yes its still a gamble but if you build it right and have the right supporting mods the odds are extremely in your favor for a solid 400-550 whp.
There will always be more maintenance and upkeep with FI, but thats just part of the game. If you don't want that trade it in for a big V8
#24
Premier Member
iTrader: (114)
Would be interesting to read those threads :/
The only thing that is getting me is the head-lift at 600 whp on a built engine. If they built it right there is no reason for that to happen... Unless they have sleeves, and then there are issues with the sleeves dropping or being installed crooked and causing problems.
Also remachining the block to use 1/2" head studs has caused a lot of trouble, but if you just stick with the tried and true L19's you can make big power and still not blow out your head gasket.
One of the issues I've noticed personally is people who try to DIY an engine built definitely seem to have a higher proportion of "problems" come up than those who entrust it to a reputable shop. Nothing like experience to get it right the first time!
The only thing that is getting me is the head-lift at 600 whp on a built engine. If they built it right there is no reason for that to happen... Unless they have sleeves, and then there are issues with the sleeves dropping or being installed crooked and causing problems.
Also remachining the block to use 1/2" head studs has caused a lot of trouble, but if you just stick with the tried and true L19's you can make big power and still not blow out your head gasket.
One of the issues I've noticed personally is people who try to DIY an engine built definitely seem to have a higher proportion of "problems" come up than those who entrust it to a reputable shop. Nothing like experience to get it right the first time!
#25
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I agree Seymore and that was good info as well. As much as I like doing the work myself I am man enough to say this is a little over my head. Experience is something I didn't give enough thought to before but Mad A is right to be cautious but I feel if I find the right shop and not over do it, I can have a fairly reliable fast *** road racing car Thanks again everyone for the great discussions, keep them coming.
Would be interesting to read those threads :/
The only thing that is getting me is the head-lift at 600 whp on a built engine. If they built it right there is no reason for that to happen... Unless they have sleeves, and then there are issues with the sleeves dropping or being installed crooked and causing problems.
Also remachining the block to use 1/2" head studs has caused a lot of trouble, but if you just stick with the tried and true L19's you can make big power and still not blow out your head gasket.
One of the issues I've noticed personally is people who try to DIY an engine built definitely seem to have a higher proportion of "problems" come up than those who entrust it to a reputable shop. Nothing like experience to get it right the first time!
The only thing that is getting me is the head-lift at 600 whp on a built engine. If they built it right there is no reason for that to happen... Unless they have sleeves, and then there are issues with the sleeves dropping or being installed crooked and causing problems.
Also remachining the block to use 1/2" head studs has caused a lot of trouble, but if you just stick with the tried and true L19's you can make big power and still not blow out your head gasket.
One of the issues I've noticed personally is people who try to DIY an engine built definitely seem to have a higher proportion of "problems" come up than those who entrust it to a reputable shop. Nothing like experience to get it right the first time!
#28
As I and many other members that went over to the darkside...FI on a stock block is doable but just be prepaired for problems, both minor and major. Motor issues will occur sooner or later on the stock block. It sucks that it happened but all you can do is deal with it. 13PSI is a lot of boost on the stock motor (G35 owners with Greddy twins don't even run near that much boost). As Waj said there are certain steps that can be taken to assure a longer lasting motor if you aren't building up your bottom end. Good luck though. Pulling the motor is a task but can be done in about 6 hours.
#29
yeah agreed. i can feel an oncoming **** storm brewing on my car.... gonna take it to the shop to preventative care... always gotta keep on top of it. it's a love hate relationship.
sucks that i dont trust to take it to long trips anymore. but it's a decision i made, and also why i own a honda element haha
sucks that i dont trust to take it to long trips anymore. but it's a decision i made, and also why i own a honda element haha
#30
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I think I have made a desesion I am giong to go with a built bottom end and a Uprev is going to do everything except build the block that's coming from import parts pro. I have never gone the FI route and have always wanted too, I feel I am too close now to turn back. So while the car is down I am going to spend the money and hopfully do it right. Thanks everyone for your help and advise. I want to do the work myself but this is a time to step back and let the pro's handle it. In a month or two this should be me just the thought of me driving my baby makes me want to