Took my Vortech G to the track today...mehhh...
Like DaveB mentioned, its your 20s that are killing you off the line. The track temps aren't helping either but losing the 20s and replacing with some smaller lighter wheels with DRs would be a major improvement. Changing the torque converter could be a huge improvement as you could get your motor into the powerband earlier. I might be new to the g35 (only owned it a year) but I have quite a few years of drag racing experience so trust me when I say DaveB is right on the money. Wheels and torque converter need to be changed.
Yeah, something doesn't sound right, especially if you're numbers are only 349whp.
I'm running virtually an identical set-up and i'm running low 12's consistently. Best time so far was a 12.1s, but typically run around 12.3-12.5.
Funny how you say you don't chirp. Thats good i think. My biggest problem is getting traction in 2nd and 3rd gear because i'm spinning both those when i shift near redline with full boost.
Yeah, off the line i get beat by everyone and their mother, but once i'm going, the thing takes off. I'm running the 3.12 pulley also, but i max out at about 11psi (even though its technically a 10 lb pulley)
I'm running virtually an identical set-up and i'm running low 12's consistently. Best time so far was a 12.1s, but typically run around 12.3-12.5.
Funny how you say you don't chirp. Thats good i think. My biggest problem is getting traction in 2nd and 3rd gear because i'm spinning both those when i shift near redline with full boost.
Yeah, off the line i get beat by everyone and their mother, but once i'm going, the thing takes off. I'm running the 3.12 pulley also, but i max out at about 11psi (even though its technically a 10 lb pulley)
Low 12's? Time slip pic please.
I ran against a stock 06 Mustang GT and BLEW the doors off him, he even changed to another driver who supposedly was a better jockey and it was still a no contest. I'm talking about 3-4 car lengths.
Yeah, but these posts also kinda get me pumped to find the problem and fix it. I already have a new boost bypass on the way, we'll see how much that helps. Now I need to get a fuel return system to get my 2.87 pulley on and also get some smaller wheels for track use.
Yeah, but these posts also kinda get me pumped to find the problem and fix it. I already have a new boost bypass on the way, we'll see how much that helps. Now I need to get a fuel return system to get my 2.87 pulley on and also get some smaller wheels for track use.
And lets not talk about the new GT...that one would just destroy you
And its true, the comments your getting should be more of a reason for you to check your car and setup since its telling you that your car should be alot faster than 13s....I do agree that wheels/tires play a big part....get some lightweight 17s with slicks and your set
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That stang race was definitely driver error...alot can get the stock GT in the mid 13s...
And lets not talk about the new GT...that one would just destroy you
And its true, the comments your getting should be more of a reason for you to check your car and setup since its telling you that your car should be alot faster than 13s....I do agree that wheels/tires play a big part....get some lightweight 17s with slicks and your set
And lets not talk about the new GT...that one would just destroy you
And its true, the comments your getting should be more of a reason for you to check your car and setup since its telling you that your car should be alot faster than 13s....I do agree that wheels/tires play a big part....get some lightweight 17s with slicks and your set
Anyways, I already got some new parts on the way so look for an update soon.
If you're on 20's you need to bring that down to 18 or 17's. GET STICKY TIRES !!!!!!!
that will help you with the times down low.
Also, since you've already played with gears and valve body, consider a higher stall torque converter.
that will help you with the times down low.
Also, since you've already played with gears and valve body, consider a higher stall torque converter.
A few things:
1) 91 degree temps with most likely 40% to 50% humidity (wet for a 90 day) isn't doing you any favors. That right there is a solid .3 and 2mph if not more.
2) 20 rims. Again, they're killing you, especially in the first 330' which is the most critical to drag racing. Those 20s are probably sucking out .2-.3 seconds and 2mph. If you want to be quick at the strip, you need to run the correct wheels and tires. I'd suggest picking up a set of 16X8 300ZX rims (they're light) and mount some DRs, but keep the tire height under 26". Air up your front 20s to 45psi. I don't know what brake package your coupe has, but I've got a set of Mazda Millenia 15X7 rims with 225/50 DRs on them. The entire wheel/tire package weighs 35lbs or 20lbs less than stock. The super short tires (24.5") would bring the effective rear gear ratio with my 3.54 swap to around a 3.75. I haven't run this setup yet because I want to get my ECU flashed for a raised limiter.
3) A Vortech SC creates power as the rpms rise. It's a great setup for a linear and flexible powerband. It's not good at delivering low end power. The power builds in a very linear fashion. The more rpm, the more the power increases therefore your launch isn't going to improve much because below 3500rpms, you're likely only making 15whp/15wtq more.
If you want to improve your car's 1/4 mile time and launch, you need to do the following:
1) DRs with lightweight rims, preferably with shorter tires to get some more torque multiplication.
2) Add a higher stall torque converter. Again, it increases torque multiplication....dramatically. You'll also be able to launch higher.
3) Run in sub 75 degree conditions. Anything higher is a waste of time.
Do all this and you'll be deep in the 12s. I'd say 12.5s-12.7s@108-110.
1) 91 degree temps with most likely 40% to 50% humidity (wet for a 90 day) isn't doing you any favors. That right there is a solid .3 and 2mph if not more.
2) 20 rims. Again, they're killing you, especially in the first 330' which is the most critical to drag racing. Those 20s are probably sucking out .2-.3 seconds and 2mph. If you want to be quick at the strip, you need to run the correct wheels and tires. I'd suggest picking up a set of 16X8 300ZX rims (they're light) and mount some DRs, but keep the tire height under 26". Air up your front 20s to 45psi. I don't know what brake package your coupe has, but I've got a set of Mazda Millenia 15X7 rims with 225/50 DRs on them. The entire wheel/tire package weighs 35lbs or 20lbs less than stock. The super short tires (24.5") would bring the effective rear gear ratio with my 3.54 swap to around a 3.75. I haven't run this setup yet because I want to get my ECU flashed for a raised limiter.
3) A Vortech SC creates power as the rpms rise. It's a great setup for a linear and flexible powerband. It's not good at delivering low end power. The power builds in a very linear fashion. The more rpm, the more the power increases therefore your launch isn't going to improve much because below 3500rpms, you're likely only making 15whp/15wtq more.
If you want to improve your car's 1/4 mile time and launch, you need to do the following:
1) DRs with lightweight rims, preferably with shorter tires to get some more torque multiplication.
2) Add a higher stall torque converter. Again, it increases torque multiplication....dramatically. You'll also be able to launch higher.
3) Run in sub 75 degree conditions. Anything higher is a waste of time.
Do all this and you'll be deep in the 12s. I'd say 12.5s-12.7s@108-110.
Heres a couple other things that may help:
Install a nitrous intercooler system to help get off the line in high temp conditions.
Adjust your new BPV so its barely open at idle. Thier will be a loud whistle sound after doing this and may need to install BPV filter to silence it. This will help build boost quicker.
As for boost VS pulley in your situation the long tube headers are making the engine more efficient so back press will be lower. Boost is really backpress on the intake side of engine. As the efficiency goes up boost will go down but make the same or more power.
Look at your RPM at the top end, if its <7000RPM than drop pulley down to 2.87 that way your spinning the supercharger at max RPM you top the 1/4 mile at.
Install a nitrous intercooler system to help get off the line in high temp conditions.
Adjust your new BPV so its barely open at idle. Thier will be a loud whistle sound after doing this and may need to install BPV filter to silence it. This will help build boost quicker.
As for boost VS pulley in your situation the long tube headers are making the engine more efficient so back press will be lower. Boost is really backpress on the intake side of engine. As the efficiency goes up boost will go down but make the same or more power.
Look at your RPM at the top end, if its <7000RPM than drop pulley down to 2.87 that way your spinning the supercharger at max RPM you top the 1/4 mile at.
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