The syringe I've used for six years for swapping fluid in the clutch hydraulics is the Mist Mizer, available at Walmart for $3. Usually found there on a pegboard near the gas cans.

Ranger

 

I did this and it worked for a day or two this FL heat does numbers on it so I think the only route for us is to drill out the restrictor for the pedal so does anyone have pics yet of this? I have a jwt clutch and flywheel so I am not going to keep burning this clutch up cause it wasnt cheap so pics would help thanks.

 

my clutch stuck today on the way to work.. I was only driving the car for 5 minutes and it stuck at a light how embarassing! never gave me a problem the whole time after that. so weird...

 

For a day or two? Yikes. I'm guessing you have a different problem than I did!

What kind of fluid did you replace it with and did you get it looking as clean as Madscientists? What does the fluid look like now that it's acted up again? If it is still clean as a whistle then I'll be certain you have some other different problem. If it's dirty again, it could still be the problem I had -- gunked up fluid not resisting heat well.

 

Correcto. If the fluid has any murkiness, the boiling point is compromised. Also the slave may be still full of goo that will come loose with repeated flushing and the 20 pedal pumps that agitated fluid at the slave.

Ranger

 

You might want to look into a stainless steel clutch line. After I had my clutch/flywheel installed, the pedal would degrade over time in the heat. After I installed the SS line, that problem went away. BUT - if you swap out the line, you will have to bleed the system multiple times. It's very easy to get air in the system when playing with the clutch line.

 

thanks for the input where can I get the ss line from and did you drill out the orifce yet?

 

As a recap, my G has been having problems with the clutch pedal sticking when the temperature rises over 83 degrees. Also, my clutch pedal was spongy and felt very soft. I took it to the dealership and they did a "clutch adjustment". Of course, the adjustment did nothing.

On Friday I did the fluid change exactly as in Rangers protocol. And...

Wow! It's like having a new clutch. The temperature hit 92 degrees today and my pedal was hard as a rock and never came close to sticking. Even if your pedal does not stick, you really should do this. It's easy and cheap.

This should be a sticky. Thanks Ranger.

 

I bought mine from SGP, but several shops sell them, including Forged Performance. I paid less than $50 for my SS line.

And nope, no drilling. After I installed the SS line, I have had zero clutch issues, except for a bit of free travel at the top of the pedal. And that is because I haven't yet bled the system properly. From what I've read, it takes multiple attempts.

GT-Ron has some good information in these two threads:
https://g35driver.com/forums/drivetrain/154272-urgent-clutch-install-pedal-return-issue.html

and
https://g35driver.com/forums/drivetrain/154473-braided-stainless-clutch-line-users.html

I have no issues with a sticking pedal after I went with the aftermarket unit. And that includes no drilling. This clutch has taken about 100 passes down the drag strip, including 50+ launches of at least 5 grand, and two clutch-drops of 6.5k or more.

 

update update update

so after a weekend of driving I have noticed the clutch defiantly feeling a little more "Sticky". I'll put it this way, after a while i decided to turn my traction control off because I was spinning the rears so much because I loved the difference. I did notice a little murkiness in the fluid this morning so I'm going to flush it out again after work. I'm just assuming that it was crud that was build up inside that got worked loose, not too worried about it.

Thanks again for the suggestion to do this, I loving my car again.

 

Launches and high-rpm strong shifts produce heat. Heat take a toll on the brake fluid in the clutch reducing its boiling point. That degradation is evidenced by the color change and murkiness in the fluid.

The preventative prescription is to stay ahead of the degradation with fresh fluid, keeping the average boiling point of the fluid near the number on the can. Do that and clutch pedal woes will become a thing of the past.

Ranger

 

Thanks. I've had it a week now and I L.O.V.E it! Pure aural pleasure shifting through the gears...
but, I'm willing to try this sometime soon-anything to keep from feeling like a shifting noob!

 

I'd suggest treating the clutch fluid change a part of routine preventative maintenance if you drive your G35 aggressively. That way you'll never suffer pedal woes.

Ranger

 

Anyone have pics of the drill-out procedure? Thanks to all for the clutch fluid change tip!

 

So you can remove essentially all the clutch fluid just by sucking it out with a baster? What about what is in the lines? Does it rise to the top somehow? I want to try this today, my clutch tends to get stuck at high heat temps and looked at the fluic yesterday, a little murkey