Use infiniti of coconut creek next time. Palm Beach is closer to me also but I refuse to use them after I called in for this issue several times, spoke to a few different people and they put me on endless holds 2x times.

I had a new clutch put in around march2010 and was STILL getting problems a couple months later.

However since about july the clutch has been working great. I thought I smelt A little clutch burning when I got outta the car a few times, but after sticking my nose under the hood i couldn't smell anything.


I'm gonna check to see how my fluid is looking when i get the time some weekend soon.

Well my clutch has only stuck on me once but lately I have been noticing taking off and going into second have seemed very "lax" to me. By that I mean its hard to feel the engagement point but it feels very high. Sometimes it shifts fine, others not. Every once in awhile also I smell something burning and I am not sure if its the clutch or not because I have no idea what that would smell like. People have told me it smells like burnt brakes, once again dont know what that smells like haha. Thanks to anyone who can help.

question, i just bought a used 6MT and the pedal was sticking the third time i drove it. i did smell something burning, but i thought it was the brakes. Does the clutch burning smell, smell similar to when you ride the brakes hard? If so, is my clutch toast or if i fix the sticking issue, can i still use the clutch?

Sorry for the ignorance right now as this car is new to me and i am just trying to figure it out

if your pedal is sticking down you have air in your line it happened to me before i changed my clutch when it would get hot or i was using the clutch often. once i changed the clutch and was bleeding the system the pedal would not return you have to pump the **** out of them to get it to bleed properly i prolly went though half a bottle of dot4. since then i have not had the pedal promblem

Here's a video of mine doing it today :-(

that is exactly what mine did before i cleaned out the fluid as described in this thread. has not done it since and i have done a few burnouts even

Changed out the fluid when i got home from that drive. I'll see how it goes now.

I have the same issue on my 2005. About 2/3rds from the top
It just stops and I have too pop it back up w/ my foot.
Going change fluid this weekend hopefully corrects the
Issue.

so lets say you just had the fluid bled, and lets assume that there's no air in the system still (just trying to move the problem further down the line). I see several people have replaced clutch cylinders. is there any consensus on which one to replace? master or slave? or do people normally just have both of them replaced? car is a 2004 with 85k miles, and dealership said they replaced clutch before they sold it to me. don't know what that entails, or if it was even more than a lie, but i'm assuming that just means internal clutch parts, not the cylinders, so i would bet that mine are original.

I had the exact question. How do you know if it's the slave or master? I plan on doing the work myself and certainly don't want to throw time and parts at it until I'm sure.

Thanks!

My 2006 is doing the same thing as described here. I did the fluid change as described link, even picked up same syringe from Walmart. Pedal still stuck a day later on a hot day. I'm going to try to bleed the clutch fluid next, because I'm not sure the fresh stuff is really cycling through.

One interesting thing I noticed in comparing the "cl" section of the factory service manuals is that in 2006 there is no longer an "orifice" in the clutch tube. So instead of drilling out, it might be just as easy to get a replacement tube (the hard line) from an 06 G.

feels a lot better after i did this, but my pedal never stuck unless it was HOT weather and while driving which got pretty annoying, i wanted to change out ALL the fluid but it would be too much of a hassle...

GREAT instructions and it seems like a majority of the people who goes through the procedure has had great results

I had this issue as soon as I bought my car used from a dealer 1.5-2 months ago. During the test drive the clutch was fine but after leaving the dealer once signing the papers the clutch was sticking. Houston heat and heavy shifting in rush hour was causing the pedal to stick upon return.

I changed the fluid at home like 5 times and never again (knock on wood) since then have I had the issues. I will change out the fluid 2 or 3 more times and keep doing it at least once a month. Good cheap and easy preventative maintenance that will keep your master and slave cylinder in good condition.

Along with that the same concept for Power steering applies. Now that is a change i feel everyday and well worth it. Power steering is much more smoother and takes less effort. Plus the fluid has 82k miles on it and was black dark nasty.

http://gshack.org/?p=272

Okay, siphoning the fluid from the reservoir was a waste of time. It might work on Vettes as that's where the original post came from, but the only fresh fluid was in the reservoir, not the lines. Bleeding the clutch wasn't that hard, but now my lines have fresh, clear fluid in them, instead of the murky brown stuff that was in there before. Waiting for another 90+ degree day to see if it helps.

2006 Sedan - 6MT. Love my car but have been frustrated with the clutch problem.

Finally found this forum, and a solution that worked...thanks to all the people who posted. I had the EXACT problem described above - pedal would stick halfway up after 35-40 minutes in stop & go on a hot day (any time the temp was over about 80 degrees). In fact, for a while I could remedy the problem by pumping the clutch hard and fast 3-4 times (while in neutral). Clutch would act fine another 10 minutes and then get soft again.

I replaced the reservoir fluid about 5 times in my garage, pumping the clutch in between each change just as the original post suggested. I noticed however that pumping the clutch didn't "mix" the reservoir fluid with fluid in the lines, necessarily. If you watch carefully, you see the dark fluid from the line below the reservoir rising in the clear fluid in the reservoir as soon as you add it. Anyway, after about 5 changes, it stayed clear, but a few days later it got pretty dark again - obviously there was a lot of bad fluid still in the lines.

I have been replacing the fluid every 2-3 days for the last 2 weeks since the original fluid change. Yesterday was the first hot day (in a while) - about 92 degrees. 60 minute stop and go drive home, no problems for the first time since I bought the car a year and a half ago. I couldn't be happier this problem is finally solved.