I had the same problem went through a clutch a year for 2 years the problem is the dot 3's boiling point is too low. i bled the clutch resevoir and replaced it with dot4 i also changed the oem clutch line with an aftermarket one. I had this problem at least once a month and haven't had the problem in 2 years now.

 

Its the master and or slave. I've had mine replaced 3 times

 

I am always amazed at the power of the internet. This G forum is great. Some time dealing with the dealer is like beating your head against a wall. I am glad to see that I am not alone. Now I just need to get the dealer to help me out. Sounds like replace master/slave and drain hydraulics and replace with DOT4 and bleed.

What will an aftermarket clutch line do for me?

 

I've been using the Valvoline DOT 3/4 synthetic brake fluid from the start.. perhaps using a DOT 3 compatible fluid like the Valvoline will help you stay within warranty since it is DOT 3 compatible and that is what the hydraulic clutch system requires at a minimum. We all know DOT 4 has a higher boiling point that DOT 3, but you know how some stealerships can get ****; and then poof goes your warranty.

 

Very good point. I just stopped by the stealership today and talked with one of the managers. They seem hesitant to just start replacing parts and wanted me to leave the vehicle with them and have one of their techs spend more time with it seeing if they can replicate. I explained to them that I understand they don't want to just start throwing new parts at it, but my concern is that this problem may result in premature wear/failure of the clutch which is obviously not covered under warranty. He was nice enough to indicate that if they determine that the clutch wearing out as a result of a part that is covered under warranty (cylinders) they would cover the cost of the clutch. Anyways, what a hassle. I think I am just going to wait for a hot day and get in some stop and go traffic. Since it started happening more frequently, I know it'll happen again. Very frustrating. In all the sticks that I have owned, isn't it ironic that the most expensive car I have bought to date has this problem.

 

i dont know whats wrong with mine. im just replacing my clutch. already got the act heavy duty pressure plate and disc. but i have noticed to when its hot its harder to shift smooth. i dont know how to describe it.

 

first my dealership replaced the slave. and it still was acting up,then they replaced the master its only been a day but it hasnt sticked like before. with the new master the clutch pedal feels alot tighter

 

any updates on how your clutch feels? Any problems since you got a new master cylinder?

 

Ditto I had the SAME problem. More so when I sat in bumper to bumper traffic and it was hot out. Correlation? Who knows. I took it in and they wanted to replace my clutch. I need some research and found that it was the clutch line. It's rubber, so it expands and contracts too much with heat. I bought a steal braided one on everything35.com I think (bout $45 w/ s&h) and an a couple of hours worth of work later voila! Problem solved. Its an easy DIY or if not, just get the line and have someone do it for you.

 

http://rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

I do this for my car and it prevents this problem.

 

I am having the same problem, just took my car to the dealer and they charged me 120 bucks to tell me that my clutch is worn out... did some digging and downloaded the service manual. Here is what it says:

Page CL-4

Clutch does not engage, check:

1. Clutch pedal
2. clutch line
3. master cylinder
4. operating cylinder
5. clutch disc

They went straight to #5 and told me that it was a 1300 dollar repair... i am going to tell them to try 1-4 first! Really urks me that dealers take advantage of people!!!

 

Hey guys, i had the same issue as all of you are having in my 07 6MT. Key word HAD,.
I would either sit in traffic or mess around with burnouts or drifting and the pedal would stick and not return driving me insane. After much research, here is what completely resolved my problem: new stainless steel braded clutch line, and DOT 4 fluid. Working with two people, Changed the line, dumped all old fluid, filled with new one, pumped the clutch pedal about 50 times by hand until it started returning again, KEY POINT: once the pedal was back to normal aka you push and feel firm pressure and when you release and it comes back, then you need to push all the way and have some one else drain by end of clutch line until all pressure is gone and pedal is stuck again. Then pump again (50 time or until normalcy resumes) re-do cycle about 5 times adding more fluid in reservoir, drain by single push, pump, drain, pump, done. This process eliminated a bunch of visible clutch dust and air bubbles in fluid.
Back to same traffic jams headache free, i can do a burnout without sticky issues for the passed 6 weeks. Try this first before worrying about master/slave cylinder issues.
EuroKidLT

 

I had the same issues with my 2005 6MT...only on hot days after about 20-30 minutes of driving. I switched to DOT 4 fluid with a high boiling temp and the issue has NOT been back since.

 

after researching good to know that its not a major issue. its a super hot day today and my pedal just started getting sticky. didnt stick that bad and after 5 minutes of cooling down its back to normal. my clutch fluid is a golden brown maybe a little darker so im going to try and change the fluid and lets see how that goes. i got an 07 coupe with 35K miles in it never raced or anything crazy. so lets see if that works. ill keep you guys posted.

 

Your clutch pedal finally stuck Daniel. I got a steel line recently, I'll probably install it this week and bleed the fluid when I get a chance.