Anyone ever done CV shafts on an AWD?
^ problems you speak of are climate related. not so much car related.
its like us doing a catback exhaust VS these cali-guys doing it. So much easier to do things in cali, other then the state laws.
its like us doing a catback exhaust VS these cali-guys doing it. So much easier to do things in cali, other then the state laws.
Last edited by TurTLe*; Dec 5, 2010 at 06:07 PM.
This is gonna be my third time with an axle problem, the first time I was just able to replace the boot, the second time I replaced the whole axle. Now the car has a slight vibration and both inner axle boots need to be replaced. Getting an OEM axle is way to expensive and it is very difficult to find a reman. Anyone have any suggestions as to what I can do? Im thinking of just replacing the boots myself at this point.
just did both sides, wasn't that hard at all but the driver side is a pita because there are 6 small bolts retaining the axle and u need a very small ratchet and you have to remove the entire under tray
Where is the cheapest place to get a 2006 G35X front right (passenger side) axle?
The dealership wants $540 for one.
I got a torn inner boot and its throwing grease everywhere.
What about from autozone?
Duralast Reman/CV Axle
For your 2006 Infiniti G35 AWD 3.5L SFI DOHC 6cyl
Part Number: 10369
Alternate Part Number: 60-6282
Price: $67.99
+Core: $35.00
Is this correct?
it says it fits the AWD but I'm not sure...
The dealership wants $540 for one.
I got a torn inner boot and its throwing grease everywhere.
What about from autozone?
Duralast Reman/CV Axle
For your 2006 Infiniti G35 AWD 3.5L SFI DOHC 6cyl
Part Number: 10369
Alternate Part Number: 60-6282
Price: $67.99
+Core: $35.00
Is this correct?
it says it fits the AWD but I'm not sure...
I highly doubt the AutoZone axle is correct. They seem to not realize the difference between AWD and RWD Gs; I ordered anti-sway bar end links, which Advance Auto had specified for AWD, and they were only for the RWD.
I just recently did the whole front right axle thing on my X (starting last week), and Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, Napa, Bumper-toBumper, and Advance all were unable to come through for me.
I had to order from infinitipartscenter.net - they had my axle for $470 plus about $40 shipping. I have the front right axle I removed still in the garage, waiting to be rebooted and SOLD! It looked to be in good shape. It was very rarely making any noise, and when it did it was a single pop or click at parking lot speeds, probably just due to being dry.
I just recently did the whole front right axle thing on my X (starting last week), and Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, Napa, Bumper-toBumper, and Advance all were unable to come through for me.
I had to order from infinitipartscenter.net - they had my axle for $470 plus about $40 shipping. I have the front right axle I removed still in the garage, waiting to be rebooted and SOLD! It looked to be in good shape. It was very rarely making any noise, and when it did it was a single pop or click at parking lot speeds, probably just due to being dry.
Going to be tackling this on my drivers side. I have a question though that hopefully someone can answer for me. On the drivers side theres those 6 bolts that hold the inner part of the axle. The manual states to replace those bolts. For anyone who's done there driver side did you replace them or is it okay to reuse the originals?
I would not.
Just re-use if it passes a visual inspection. The FSM is written to be ultra-safe - it covers the dealers'/manufacturer's butts in issues of liability, and increases revenue when the dealership replaces every single bolt during maintenance. IMO, if you've got six bolts, the chances of one breaking are slim-to-none, especially if you're not over-torquing your bolts.
I personally have never seen a steel bolt on a car break, and the only place I've heard of this happening with any regularity is on the wheel hub studs. Somebody else may have another opinion, though, and I'd be interested to hear. Since the car's AWD, I assume you live in areas with road salt in use, so that can definitely damage steel. Just look carefully.
I personally have never seen a steel bolt on a car break, and the only place I've heard of this happening with any regularity is on the wheel hub studs. Somebody else may have another opinion, though, and I'd be interested to hear. Since the car's AWD, I assume you live in areas with road salt in use, so that can definitely damage steel. Just look carefully.
Thanks mcaron!
Your description provided the details I needed to complete this easy task.
I have some recommendations that may help others.
I did not remove the caliper or rotor.
My process was as follows:
1 - I raised and supported car high enough to allow me to lay underneath and rearward of the front wheel. You will need to access the front differential from here when prying the axle.
2 - I removed the wheel.
3 - I had an assistant apply the brake while I used a 3' cheater bar to loosen the spindle nut.
4 - I positioned the spindle nut flush to the end of the spindle and rapped it with a 2 pound hand sledge. It slid easily.
5 - I detached the brake line clip by removing the two bolts. This action will keep the brake line from being pulled tight later.
6 - I detached the (2) rubber grommets that hold the anti-lock brake sensor wire in place. This action will keep the wire from being pulled tight later.
7 - I removed the upper ball joint nut and separated the "assembly" from the upper control arm.
At this point I was able to remove the axle from the "assembly" hub.
Now I had to remove the axle from the front differential.
Following mcaron's instructions, I inserted a large screwdriver into the gap between the axle and differential at the top (11 o'clock looking inboard) and using the taper of the screw driver, tapped it into place until it became snug. I had an assistant insert a large screwdriver from the lower front (4 o'clock) and provided a twisting action with the screw driver (there is no room to push the screw driver through and utilize the taper). I inserted a third large screw driver from the bottom rear (7 o'clock) and applied a twisting action similar to the second screw driver. The axle popped out with little effort.
I removed the dust cover from my old axle located where the axle enters the differential and attached it to the new axle.
I carefully inserted the new shaft into the differential with a forceful push as I felt the *click* of a positive engagement.
I reversed the earlier procedure concerning the "assembly" (I apologize for no knowing what the hub, rotor, caliper, tower.... is called).
If I had to do it again then I could complete the entire task in about 70 minutes. In and out of the garage.
Your description provided the details I needed to complete this easy task.
I have some recommendations that may help others.
I did not remove the caliper or rotor.
My process was as follows:
1 - I raised and supported car high enough to allow me to lay underneath and rearward of the front wheel. You will need to access the front differential from here when prying the axle.
2 - I removed the wheel.
3 - I had an assistant apply the brake while I used a 3' cheater bar to loosen the spindle nut.
4 - I positioned the spindle nut flush to the end of the spindle and rapped it with a 2 pound hand sledge. It slid easily.
5 - I detached the brake line clip by removing the two bolts. This action will keep the brake line from being pulled tight later.
6 - I detached the (2) rubber grommets that hold the anti-lock brake sensor wire in place. This action will keep the wire from being pulled tight later.
7 - I removed the upper ball joint nut and separated the "assembly" from the upper control arm.
At this point I was able to remove the axle from the "assembly" hub.
Now I had to remove the axle from the front differential.
Following mcaron's instructions, I inserted a large screwdriver into the gap between the axle and differential at the top (11 o'clock looking inboard) and using the taper of the screw driver, tapped it into place until it became snug. I had an assistant insert a large screwdriver from the lower front (4 o'clock) and provided a twisting action with the screw driver (there is no room to push the screw driver through and utilize the taper). I inserted a third large screw driver from the bottom rear (7 o'clock) and applied a twisting action similar to the second screw driver. The axle popped out with little effort.
I removed the dust cover from my old axle located where the axle enters the differential and attached it to the new axle.
I carefully inserted the new shaft into the differential with a forceful push as I felt the *click* of a positive engagement.
I reversed the earlier procedure concerning the "assembly" (I apologize for no knowing what the hub, rotor, caliper, tower.... is called).
If I had to do it again then I could complete the entire task in about 70 minutes. In and out of the garage.
Last edited by dascon; May 14, 2016 at 06:42 PM. Reason: grammatical error
So no one had fluid come out of there differential when doing passenger side? I'm in the process of changing mine right now. When I popped it out of the differential some fluid did come out. Might have to do with the angle of my driveway. I had the front of the car on jackstands and I guess my driveway leans a little more to the passengers side so I had some fluid drain out. I stopped it by just having the passenger side on a jackstand and removing the stand on the drivers side and letting it rest on the tire/ground allowing the fluid to go back in towards the differential. It was prob only about 0.5 oz(a tablespoon worth), would it be okay to drive the car without filling it back up or can this cause damage?



