Anyone ever done CV shafts on an AWD?
Basically it's the same but the front shafts actually go INTO the front diff unlike the rears which have that little stub shaft with the flange of bolts at the differential that stays in place.
Front axles usually go something like this:
-Jack up vehicle , remove tires, remove plastic undercover
-Remove drive axle nut, personally I cheat and put a screwdriver into the center vanes of the brake rotor and wedge against the brake caliper to keep the rotor from turning it's not the technically "correct" way but I've never damaged a rotor using this method so...
-Remove brake caliper and hang it to the side, mark the pads inboard/outboard in case they fall out so you can get everything back exactly like it was.
-Unbolt the compression rod, transverse link, steering tie rod, and upper control arm from the steering knuck so you can take the knuckle off.
-Now just slide hammer the axle out, make sure the circlip (little metal ring in the groove a the end) came out, visually inspect the front differential inside the hole to make sure there isn't an OLD circlip floating around... this happens way more often then you would think, scroll up a few posts and you'll see a mangled one stuck in someones diff on post #48.
-Installation is the exact opposite, line up the new one, slide hammer (or just use a plastic deadblow mallet which is easier) the new one in, put the knuckle back on, attach all the components, torque the steering knuckle components first, put the screwdriver back into the rotor vanes on the opposite side and torque the axle bolt, use a NEW COTTER PIN.
-Put the tires and undercover back on, it's pretty simple but you're going to need an assortment of sockets because there's quite a few sizes of bolts, the axle bolt is 32mm I think so it's the only oddball, you might need a puller for the ball joints and tie rod end depending on how crusty everything is.
Technically you MIGHT be able to leave the tierod and FUC arm attached and just remove the compression arm and transverse link, sometimes you can turn the knuckle enough with the lower parts removed to get the drive axle out, I like to have more room and have all the pullers for stuff like that so I just take everything off.
I'm sure you can just watch a few youtube videos for both vehicle drive axle replacement as well as G specific front component ones like compression arm replacement to get an idea how all the stuff comes apart. Doesn't need to be for an X model either, literally everything is the same on the RWD except it doesn't have the diff, axle, and a different hub without splines.
Front axles usually go something like this:
-Jack up vehicle , remove tires, remove plastic undercover
-Remove drive axle nut, personally I cheat and put a screwdriver into the center vanes of the brake rotor and wedge against the brake caliper to keep the rotor from turning it's not the technically "correct" way but I've never damaged a rotor using this method so...
-Remove brake caliper and hang it to the side, mark the pads inboard/outboard in case they fall out so you can get everything back exactly like it was.
-Unbolt the compression rod, transverse link, steering tie rod, and upper control arm from the steering knuck so you can take the knuckle off.
-Now just slide hammer the axle out, make sure the circlip (little metal ring in the groove a the end) came out, visually inspect the front differential inside the hole to make sure there isn't an OLD circlip floating around... this happens way more often then you would think, scroll up a few posts and you'll see a mangled one stuck in someones diff on post #48.
-Installation is the exact opposite, line up the new one, slide hammer (or just use a plastic deadblow mallet which is easier) the new one in, put the knuckle back on, attach all the components, torque the steering knuckle components first, put the screwdriver back into the rotor vanes on the opposite side and torque the axle bolt, use a NEW COTTER PIN.
-Put the tires and undercover back on, it's pretty simple but you're going to need an assortment of sockets because there's quite a few sizes of bolts, the axle bolt is 32mm I think so it's the only oddball, you might need a puller for the ball joints and tie rod end depending on how crusty everything is.
Technically you MIGHT be able to leave the tierod and FUC arm attached and just remove the compression arm and transverse link, sometimes you can turn the knuckle enough with the lower parts removed to get the drive axle out, I like to have more room and have all the pullers for stuff like that so I just take everything off.
I'm sure you can just watch a few youtube videos for both vehicle drive axle replacement as well as G specific front component ones like compression arm replacement to get an idea how all the stuff comes apart. Doesn't need to be for an X model either, literally everything is the same on the RWD except it doesn't have the diff, axle, and a different hub without splines.
Passenger side is the easy side, Drivers side CV axle has six 10mm bolts that are a pain. Don't even bother trying to change CV axles without an impact driver. Take off the center nut, wheel speed sensor, then disconnect the upper ball joint, this allows the spindle to rotate far enough for the CV axle to come out of the splines.
https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Sedan/2004/sc.pdf
See page SC 18
Removal and Installation
Telcoman
That's a G, mine is a Gx
The X has the starter on the left side, I can get it off. I need a path to get is out, axle in front, manifold on top, no hole to get it out?
Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for the reply.
Last edited by ScottsT; Dec 15, 2018 at 10:49 AM.
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Danielek
G35 Sedan V35 2003-06
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