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I just replaced my rear main seal so i dropped transmission flywheel etc and reinstalled my transmission just to find the clutch pedal to quite literally go straight to the floor as if the slave cylinder had no resistance. I didn’t have any problem with the CSC before hand so I look under and found the CSC has not moved it’s piston further into the fork as i pull the pedal out and back in . i’ve tried bleeding it but i couldn’t use my pedal to bleed since it’s stuck on the floor so i did it manually on the slave cylinder. Still stuck to the floor and no more fluid came out the CSC. iafter researching figured i might want to replace the slave so i do and same thing. Now i’m wondering if i have to replace my CMS because i don’t see any leaks in the system.
The vehicle starts just fine but when i throw the shifter into first it catches drivetrain engages. Before i drop my transmission again.
Flywheel was torqued to 75lbs
pressure plate torqued to 28lbs
Replied to your PM, pretty good chance the clutch friction disc is backwards or the clutch fork spring is backwards.
Here's a link to a thread I made about the clutch fork return spring being upside down, you can see this easily just by pulling out the rubber boot around the clutch fork, you can also install that rubber boot without issue. Just need to remove the CSC to get it off/on, there is an ARROW that points towards the FRONT of the car so make sure that boot is properly installed too.
i’ve rechecked my clutch it was aligned correctly and clutch fork is installed correctly . Still getting no pressure in clutch pedal and CSC is still in same position in each depression of the pedal. I’ve tried bleeding it however no fluid comes out
Take off the reservoir cap, put a container under the slave cylinder, open bleed valve and just let it drain out while you stand at the engine and keep the reservoir full without creating bubbles (pour from a close distance).
Put half a bottle into it and hopefully the air gets pushed out due to how quickly the fluid drains, the bubbles won't have a chance to float up the line.
Take off the reservoir cap, put a container under the slave cylinder, open bleed valve and just let it drain out while you stand at the engine and keep the reservoir full without creating bubbles (pour from a close distance).
Put half a bottle into it and hopefully the air gets pushed out due to how quickly the fluid drains, the bubbles won't have a chance to float up the line.
i gravity bled it twice and the second time i did it (literally let it bleed for a full 12-14 hours) less than 1/4 of reservoir was drained but i was finally getting fluid , used a bleeder pump and after next day pedal was feeling fine enough to bleed normally and even then it was apparent there was an ungodly amount of air in the system. Thanks for the help
i gravity bled it twice and the second time i did it (literally let it bleed for a full 12-14 hours) less than 1/4 of reservoir was drained but i was finally getting fluid , used a bleeder pump and after next day pedal was feeling fine enough to bleed normally and even then it was apparent there was an ungodly amount of air in the system. Thanks for the help
OHH!! There is a restrictor valve in part of the line in the wheel well, if it didn't freely gravity bleed out (it will empty the reservoir in about 5 minutes) then I bet your restrictor valve is clogged up/rusted up.
The 2003-2004.5 models had a smaller restrictor valve, 2004.5+ has a larger restrictor. Z1 Motorsports makes a kit that replaces that section of the line to delete the restrictor. It's only purpose is to smooth out the release of the clutch for people who don't know how to properly drive a manual transmission.
OHH!! There is a restrictor valve in part of the line in the wheel well, if it didn't freely gravity bleed out (it will empty the reservoir in about 5 minutes) then I bet your restrictor valve is clogged up/rusted up.
The 2003-2004.5 models had a smaller restrictor valve, 2004.5+ has a larger restrictor. Z1 Motorsports makes a kit that replaces that section of the line to delete the restrictor. It's only purpose is to smooth out the release of the clutch for people who don't know how to properly drive a manual transmission.
haha well look at that , i will have to get onto that so i don’t have any problems in the future and just upgrade it to the z1 kit . That would make a lot of sense.
Basically it just slightly slows down the rate that the pressure transfers back from one side of the restrictor to the other.
-Pushing the clutch pedal there's a TINY bit of delay as the pressure squeezes past the restrictor to push the slave cylinder out.
-Releasing the pedal there's a bit more of a delay which causes the clutch to release a little more smooth, makes it harder to "pop the clutch". A lot of modern vehicles add a restrictor to the clutch line.
On the G35 the earlier models had an undersized restrictor that adds a bit too much of a delay, they increased the size for the 2004.5+ models though. Most folks I've met who are proficient with a clutch prefer NO RESTRICTOR. I completely forgot I had drilled mine out right after I bought my car, here's where it's located in the fender well. You can either drill it out (can't remember the drill size, just needs to be made a little bigger though) or replace that whole thing with the delete kit.
This is inside the left side fender well with the plastic shroud removed.
