DIY: EVAP canister removal for sedan owners
#1
DIY: EVAP canister removal for sedan owners
This isn't really finished but I wanted to post the idea. First thing I noticed when I first remove the canister months ago, is that the car cranked longer before starting if it sat a few hours since the gas tank was constantly venting and not maintaining pressure. I put the canister back and it started normally.
People who did this on my350z and had the CEL SES light from removing the EVAP canister said they removed the codes with Osiris and didn't see any long cranking before starting.
I had the EVAP canister in the trunk and could keep my spare tire but the gas smell was unbearable sometimes and it's simply not safe to be inhaling gas vapors. I removed the canister and took the lines from the gas tank under the car and routed them in the same place where the canister vented originally, in the subframe. I guess the gas vapors venting in the subframe prohibits the growth of mold or any rust from forming since it is hollow.
There is still one hole (pictured) that was covered originally by one of the brackets for the EVAP canister. It needs to be plugged somehow with something to prevent vapor from getting into the trunk through the vent on the side of the quarter panel.
People who have the driver side valve cover vent to atmosphere also get gas smell every time the car is WOT. I have it the same way but I plan on putting it back into the intake.
People who did this on my350z and had the CEL SES light from removing the EVAP canister said they removed the codes with Osiris and didn't see any long cranking before starting.
I had the EVAP canister in the trunk and could keep my spare tire but the gas smell was unbearable sometimes and it's simply not safe to be inhaling gas vapors. I removed the canister and took the lines from the gas tank under the car and routed them in the same place where the canister vented originally, in the subframe. I guess the gas vapors venting in the subframe prohibits the growth of mold or any rust from forming since it is hollow.
There is still one hole (pictured) that was covered originally by one of the brackets for the EVAP canister. It needs to be plugged somehow with something to prevent vapor from getting into the trunk through the vent on the side of the quarter panel.
People who have the driver side valve cover vent to atmosphere also get gas smell every time the car is WOT. I have it the same way but I plan on putting it back into the intake.
Last edited by Andrei; 08-16-2010 at 01:26 PM.
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#8
I got under the car a few months back. I'll be doing this (well, remounting vertically) for space reasons. I'll be running a dual exhaust as well but to make it easier I won't have any mufflers. My plan is to run LaBree resonated test pipes to a midpipe with a Sebring muffler/resonator and mandrel bent pipes to the rear with dual tips on each side. Should be pretty darn loud n' sexy.
You're running a dual exhaust with muffler canisters in the rear, right Andrei?
You're running a dual exhaust with muffler canisters in the rear, right Andrei?
#9
#10
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The gasoline I was smelling at wide open throttle WOT before I routed the hoses back into the subframe and got rid of the canister was due to one of the wideband sensors being out on my car and the ECU dumping gas and running super rich at WOT. This has been reported before by others on this forum who have G35s with widebands that went out.
Also there is no gasoline smell coming out of the driver side valve cover that I have venting to atmosphere. The gasoline smell was caused by the reason above.^
Also the person with the canister removed who I talked to on my350z who said his car did not crank longer after sitting for a few hours was running an aftermarket fuel setup with a Walbro fuel pump which has instant pressure when the car cranks thus a quicker start.
The gasoline I was smelling at wide open throttle WOT before I routed the hoses back into the subframe and got rid of the canister was due to one of the wideband sensors being out on my car and the ECU dumping gas and running super rich at WOT. This has been reported before by others on this forum who have G35s with widebands that went out.
Also there is no gasoline smell coming out of the driver side valve cover that I have venting to atmosphere. The gasoline smell was caused by the reason above.^
Also the person with the canister removed who I talked to on my350z who said his car did not crank longer after sitting for a few hours was running an aftermarket fuel setup with a Walbro fuel pump which has instant pressure when the car cranks thus a quicker start.
Last edited by Andrei; 10-13-2010 at 02:38 AM.
#11
This is the drive side valve cover venting to atmosphere. Like I said it does not cause any gas smell venting to atmosphere. Usually this has a hose connecting to the intake and it releases unburned gas vapors into the intake but it fouls up the throttle body.
The gas smell after I put the canister back into the subframe was simply because of a bad wideband air/fuel sensor.
The gas smell after I put the canister back into the subframe was simply because of a bad wideband air/fuel sensor.
Last edited by Andrei; 10-22-2010 at 02:22 AM.
#12
I got under the car a few months back. I'll be doing this (well, remounting vertically) for space reasons. I'll be running a dual exhaust as well but to make it easier I won't have any mufflers. My plan is to run LaBree resonated test pipes to a midpipe with a Sebring muffler/resonator and mandrel bent pipes to the rear with dual tips on each side. Should be pretty darn loud n' sexy.
You're running a dual exhaust with muffler canisters in the rear, right Andrei?
You're running a dual exhaust with muffler canisters in the rear, right Andrei?
I think if you do it without a muffler it will be too loud and raspy, but test it out and see I guess. I just have one muffler, no resonators, and it's friggin loud lol. I can only imagine how it would be without a muffler lol.