If the 0-60 and 1/4 are your only objectives then a set of slicks and some deep set of gears might get you there.

 

excuse moi for this silly question....dyno tune, is that running car on dyno, adjust a/f to get optimume hp/tq w/stock ecu or piggyback/stand alone? thanks.

oh, regarding the race........build it up this way......tell him he should smoke you by bus lenghts, if he doesn't, tell him he should feel ashamed because he afterall has a mustang.....
there you go, you're in a win-win situation

 

with your mods... to get sub-5 secs you need to:

1. get Ignition Amplifier like SUN Auto Hyper Force or HKS Twin Power DLI
2. get reflashed ECU, UTEC, or Unichip
3. get 3.9 final drive gears
4. get stickier tires like Advan Neova, Advan Sport, Bridgestone Potenza RE-01R, Pirelli P-Zero Rosso, or Michelin Pilot Sport PS2
5. get light-weight wheels (under 22 lbs per wheel would be good)
6. make your car about 300+ pounds lighter

I guess my formula here is better power-to-weight ratio plus sticky tires would do the trick. you'd be able to run sub-5 and do high 12's to mid 13's on 1320 strip

 

what does the ignition amplifier do? never heard that one before... i understand a stronger spark but does it really add that much hp? (maybe just to prevent misfires?)

 

there are several cast wheels that go for under a 1200 dollars and only weight about 17-18 pounds. I think the stock 19's also weigh about 25 pounds. So that's a total of 28 pounds of rotational weight, which is about 280 pounds off curb weight. Every 100 pounds off the curb weight is about 1/10 off your quarter mile. Then a step further than that is lightweight rotors. Any other weight shavings would be a waste of time, but I'd suggest taking out the back seat and the spare tire/jack.

If your wallet still has something left to give, I'd suggest staying in weight savings and go to light weight racing seats and ditch the heavy *** heated 2 front seats. This is all the realistic things u can do to shave weight, still ending up with what u paid for in the first place.... an Infiniti. I mean who the hell suggests gutting the entire car?

No, theres still more weight to save. Take the quarters out of the cup holders.

Now for the engine. Plenum (Just get one that u like, most of the upper plenums do the same damn thing. Its just price/brand that separates them.) Headers seem to be big thing around here, but I really doubt it does anything for speed. Just like most bolt ons. Personally the only engine mod I'd recomend is more aggressive cams.

I've heard the 3.9 final drive is only good for the track (twisties). Because you have to shift an extra gear in the 1/4 mile because the gears are shorter so I dont know, go with ur instinct on that.

So those are the mods I suggest without really getting into heavy engine work or F/I territory. The weight saving mods wont void warranty. NOS is probably the only sure fire way to get ur self there, but then he can use that too.

But if worse comes to worst, SLASH HIS TIRES.

 

minimal hp gains (maybe 4-5hp) but makes engine more responsive. you will definitely feel a difference in the way your car runs after adding an ignition system or ignition amplifier.

 

ChromiumBlue7 - great suggestion on the brake rotors. just by replacing the stock rotors with a 2-piece design, one can shave around 5 lbs rotational weight per (or 20 lbs total). getting rid of the spare tire and jack are also great.

 

do you have some actualy dyno proof of this? Modern Nissans already feature full electronic ignition with individual coil on plug technology.

 

dude... read between the lines. did i not say "MAYBE" 4-5hp? if i had dyno numbers they would be up here and i would say "the mod produced an additional 5 hp..." there maybe dyno numbers available on g35, 350z, lancer evo, and wrx sti, but you can look that up for yourself if dyno numbers on ignition systems are that important to you.

 

+1 It's simply a matter of insurance, not a significant HP/TQ increase... ...even though some increase can usually be seen.

The questions are how much is the OEM system good for and how well does it perform with mild bolt-ons? Then you can justify if a little insurance is what you want or not.

 

People have installed the HKS ign system on maximas (NA and FI) and achieved 0 benefit. I HIGHLY doubt Nissan's coil on plug electronic ign system is even remotely close to being stressed in anyway.

 

OK - so here's the skinny on ignition mods:

Unless your going WILD NA with Nitrous or super FI and high mod build with it - it's just not needed and will not help at all. Ignition systems are designed for FI cars these days with advanced fuel and ignition needs.

The ignition in these cars is VERY well suited for highly modded cars - trust me on this one...

Remember the original need of the poster of this thread. He has a limited budget, a street car daily driver with bolt on mods and wanting to get the car to a certain point.

Slicks and such are not realistic with that goal. Try to help him with reality.

Rick

 

get a tune, you can then start from there

 

Why wouldn't a set of street legal slicks realistic. They ARE going to the track right? Getting his 60ft time down is a good way at reducing your 0-60 and 1/4 time. Especially for how close his is to his goal.

 

OK -

So, you have to read Shogun's posts - first and foremost.

His buddy had never tracked his car, just talked a bunch of crap. For ASSUMPTION sake, per Shogun, they are both stock. He just wants to go to the track, or maybe a street, and show his a s s up.

To do that and keep ego at it's highest - you may as well do it as sleeper as possible - the ultimate insult!

So changing rims and tires for slicks, just makes for argument later about being unfair to each other...blah blah blah.

Make the race about engine to engine and driver to driver. General bolt ons for about 40HP, short shifter, tune and maybe a flywheel. The slicks aren't a WRONG idea, don't get me wrong about that, but for a possible couple of ego races??

If the stang shows up with slicks...different story, if Shogun looses because of a traction issue, that's either driver or tire prep or condition or 'the need for the tire". Then it's another day and another race.

Overall though - 40-50HP and 30lbs of TQ, and a tune should do the trick. The flywheel seals the deal. The gears on the MT are fine and the gain for the 3.92's are good for ET, but costly in this scenario, at this budget point.

Remember the goal - bang for the buck - power to weight ratio always wins with some help transferring the power (flywheel).

Rick