Actually light flywheels aren't the best for drag races. Any unit light enough to make real diff, will hurt his launch unless he is PERFECT.

I mean the dude has a V8 for cripes sake. Short of a Tae Dong stage III rocket, mustang man shouldn't be able to say squat. He's giving up 2 cylinders, a solid rear vs IRS and 2 liters of displacement.

 

I don't disagree at all with your drag race issue on the flywheel, but our cars really need mid range help - the flywheel really helps there, and it was a last mod idea, not a first by any means.

V8 - so what...I know 4 baggers that beat them. Spend $800 on juice and say goodbye to your buddy then. There are easy ways to beat any car out there with HP mods.

If you can't drive - it doesn't matter how much you have.

Rick

 

IMHO. A set of street legal slicks on some stockish 17s would yield better 0-60/1/4 times than a light/trickly flwheel. Probably much cheaper after install.

 

Not arguing there...your sure stuck on it though...

 

I'm completely with Rick on this. If you want to shut the guy up, instead of giving him plenty to bitch and moan about after he loses, you can't go doing something so visually substantial. Stickies, nitrous, etc. are going to give the appearance of an unfair advantage. Leave this guy with nothing more than the normal handful of excuses when he loses.

To accomplish that^, your options are limited and basic.

Personally, in such a close match, I would rely heavily on driver skill. Meaning, I would raise my revs before the green, intentionally goading him into launching too hard and smoking his tires with all that TQ. You'd be surprised at the number of guys on the street that bite on this one instead of running their own race.

While I used this to full, devastating effect with my AWD '97 Mitsu. GSX, there's no reason you couldn't adapt it to a RWD. You simply come down on the revs right before launch and hit it in the sweet spot.

Mustang and Corvette owners seemed to be the ones who'd really bite the hardest. Only the C5/C6 were able to hang in there good even through all that wheelspin.

 

give up u wont beat a mach 1 in the quarter....nitto drag radials on a stock mach 1 u do 12.8's....another...

love the g coupe...but in the quarter its amustang world...it comes with good shocks n struts from the factory for dragging....

 

[QUOTE=GT-Ron]I'm completely with Rick on this. If you want to shut the guy up, instead of giving him plenty to bitch and moan about after he loses, you can't go doing something so visually substantial. Stickies, nitrous, etc. are going to give the appearance of an unfair advantage. Leave this guy with nothing more than the normal handful of excuses when he loses.


+1 ^ This is the effect that I am going for. I want my car to remain mostly stock looking.

I appreciate all of your guys help in determining the best path. It looks like the Mach1 is going to be tough to beat, but I will practice my driving skills to make up for the difference in hp/tq. I have about 2 months before i see him again cuz softball is in its off season right now.

Special thanks to IMSoultions for taking the extra effort to try and understand where I am coming from and doing your best to help.

 

Hey - no problem - once again!

I'm a business consultant.

My goal is to educate my clients on their choices so they can make the best decision for their businesses. The biggest part of that is me getting to know them and how they work and what they really expect and need.

You can't get a real solution in anything without doing your homework first. I'll never rush to an answer or judgment or recommendation without getting enough facts, unless there is truly no other choice in the matter based on my years of experience and expertise.

Rick

 

Gotta side w/ Rick here....and I repeat my original suggestion: MREV2 w/5/16th spacer, Z-tube w/ KN drop in (pop charger if u can prevent heat soak), dual catback w/ test pipes (which give more hp increase than the exhaust alone at a third the price).

Of course now ur A/F ratio is off and u need to advance ur timing. Hence the engine managment. My first choice would be a UTEC if you can find a tuner. A close second is Emanage Ultimate. Actually, my first choice is the HKS F-con....but it is 3K....can give 30 horses, though. A tune will bring it all together and net u another 10 horses.

For an extra 4K (w/UTEC of EU) U will have a NA bolt on car that looks stock, gives u close to 40 more horses, and should beat a stock Mustang. I know because these are pretty much my mods and I also own a Mustang.

 

^^ Could you elaborate on the differences between a mach1 and a standard gt?

 

I didn't think it was any more than a 30HP difference. It's been a few years though since I've been able to quote figures on nearly evey car.

 

Mach1 is more refined, 4 valves per cylinder vs 2.... about 40 more horses than the GT. The GT is rated at 260 hp, the Mach at 300. I can tell you this, my 2002 GT's 260 horses (when it was new) felt at least as strong as my stock G35's 298. Probably due to the 300 ft of torque.

 

More weight saving tips. I doubt this will make a large difference. But I guess it's cheap and saves weight. I have an 04 Coupe and just removed the back of the back seats. This thing weights close to 40 pounds. It's pretty simple to remove and put back in too. Another thing is, I'm trying to remove my passenger seat, depending on difficulty, I think I may just keep it out until I know someone needs a ride and I can put it back in. I may even remove the drivers seat for a sparco racing seat.

Now, I remember a while back, someone said that a coupe driver seat weighed almost 50 pounds. So take that and the passenger seat, and thats close to 90-100 pounds. Put in a 25 pound racing seat, and u saved 75 pounds. Plus 40-50 pounds with the spare and jack gone. Another 35-40 pounds with the back seat's back gone. Depending on how bad u wanna beat this guy, and how much every little detail matters, u can remove the floor mats and only have a 1/4 tank of gas in ur tank. But from what I've said, u should save almost 200 pounds for 400-600 dollars. And that money is only for the racing seat.

Now, my stock 18's weight almost 26 pounds. I just bought 17 pound 18's for 888 dollars shipped. I just saved 9 pounds per corner. Like I said before, thats a total of 36 pounds of rotational weight, which equates to 360 pounds of curb weight.

You can see the weight savings add up now. To my knowledge, every 100 pounds of your car, is 1/10 off in the quarter mile. A stock coupe runs that in about 14.1. Now itll run it in 13.6, according to my speculation.

Another thing I heard, is every 10 hp, also takes off 1/10 in the quarter, I dont know whether thats wheel or engine, but lets say it is wheel, then I'd take Dr Jitsu's advice and do his mods which he says is good for 40 hp. So then u get another .4 seconds dropped from the 1/4 time, and now u run it in 13.2.

Theres one more thing that I will do for my car, and that's buy lightweight rotors and save another 5lbs per corner. Again, to my knowledge, thats 50 pounds of curb weight per corner, thus 200 off total curb. thats another .2 seconds off the quarter bringing u to a flat 13.0.

Again, I'm not in any way an expert, I'm just trying to help. Please tell me if I'm wrong, because I dont want to go around spreading false information.

 

32Vs are more mod friendly too, they will run away with Power adders and gears really do wonders too.

 

man you make it sound so easy! not doubting you or anything, but it looks real attractive to me now that you laid it out like that! haha