Kinetix ssv VS MD Spacer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,112
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From: Miami, FL
Kinetix ssv VS MD Spacer
OK, I called up http://www.billetdesign.com/ and I talked to Chris and told him the whole deal. He told me he is going to talk to Marco who I believe owns the shop and see what we can do schedule and price wise. I have talked to both Tony from MD and Jamison from kinetix. They have both instructed me to test the plenums in this way.
KINETIX INSTRUCTIONS
try to make sure the dyno pulls will have an A/F readout. Sometimes in N/A
and F/I setups the SSV can cause a couple spikes in the A/F curve. We
havent been able to figure out exactly what causes this, we believe it may
be a change in some of the factory sensor readings because of the different
configuration of the manifold.
In F/I , it is strongly advised that tuning be done. The SSV is not a
simple bolt on with F/I , to truly test you should dyno the car stock and
record the A/F curve. Then you should bolt on the spacer and dyno again
(make sure the a/f curve is the same) , if it is not, then re/tune the a/f
curve to stock. Then dyno again with SSV and adjust the a/f curve
accordingly.
This process should also be repeated with N/A testing, however the chance of
an erratic fuel curve in N/A testing are less.
If you are maximizing power, especially in F/I, then you have an "ideal"
fuel curve which maximizes power. Products should be compared at the same
fuel curve, so you see exactly what the product is producing, as opposed to
gains/losses simply due to changes in the fuel curve (which can be modified
with a simple tune.)
I would be very curious to see the results. What F/I setup will be tested?
As far as process for testing the SSV, just simply repeat the SAME process
as the motordyne and factory testing. The goal is repeatability. Same
number of dyno pulls, same day, SAE corrected.
MOTORDYNE INSTRUCTIONS
Just a note:
For your dyno test, be sure to ask the dyno operator to do 2 throw away pulls before you start the comparison.
You don't even need to aquire data on the throw away pulls. So hopefully he won't charge you extra to do it.
Pull it WOT from ~2K to redline a couple times while on the dyno. Then shut off the car for about 10 seconds, restart the car and then you will be ready to do the pre/post comparison.
Doing the breakin pulls will increase the consistancy of the remaining pulls that follow. It will yeild a more accurate comparison.
Good luck on the testing!
Tony
KINETIX INSTRUCTIONS
try to make sure the dyno pulls will have an A/F readout. Sometimes in N/A
and F/I setups the SSV can cause a couple spikes in the A/F curve. We
havent been able to figure out exactly what causes this, we believe it may
be a change in some of the factory sensor readings because of the different
configuration of the manifold.
In F/I , it is strongly advised that tuning be done. The SSV is not a
simple bolt on with F/I , to truly test you should dyno the car stock and
record the A/F curve. Then you should bolt on the spacer and dyno again
(make sure the a/f curve is the same) , if it is not, then re/tune the a/f
curve to stock. Then dyno again with SSV and adjust the a/f curve
accordingly.
This process should also be repeated with N/A testing, however the chance of
an erratic fuel curve in N/A testing are less.
If you are maximizing power, especially in F/I, then you have an "ideal"
fuel curve which maximizes power. Products should be compared at the same
fuel curve, so you see exactly what the product is producing, as opposed to
gains/losses simply due to changes in the fuel curve (which can be modified
with a simple tune.)
I would be very curious to see the results. What F/I setup will be tested?
As far as process for testing the SSV, just simply repeat the SAME process
as the motordyne and factory testing. The goal is repeatability. Same
number of dyno pulls, same day, SAE corrected.
MOTORDYNE INSTRUCTIONS
Just a note:
For your dyno test, be sure to ask the dyno operator to do 2 throw away pulls before you start the comparison.
You don't even need to aquire data on the throw away pulls. So hopefully he won't charge you extra to do it.
Pull it WOT from ~2K to redline a couple times while on the dyno. Then shut off the car for about 10 seconds, restart the car and then you will be ready to do the pre/post comparison.
Doing the breakin pulls will increase the consistancy of the remaining pulls that follow. It will yeild a more accurate comparison.
Good luck on the testing!
Tony
Last edited by 2FastG354U; Jul 14, 2006 at 02:18 PM.
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