There are 2 different oil pressure senders for VQ35DE engines, ones for the G35 are a 2-wire sender which is for a low level activation light only. The Sensor on a 350Z is different, it is a 3-wire sensor since a 350Z has a factory Oil Pressure Gauge, the oil pressure sender connector is just about the only difference between a G/Z wiring harness. But the factory oil pressure sender on Zs is so problematic that I wouldn't recommend monitoring pressures from it anyway.

The Oil pressure sender is pretty much useless in general, it must have a near 0psi threshold because I have seen cars running as low as 8psi of pressure without a light (factory spec is ~14psi). But if you eliminate the sensor all together the light will constantly be on. So i recommend keeping the sender in place and adding an aftermarket sensor/gauge to monitor oil pressure. We offer a fitting to accomplish this. HERE This will only work with oil pressure sensors using 1/8 BSPT, some oil pressure gauges use 1/8 NPT for which you would need a adapter which we do not offer but can be purchased HERE

Let me know if I can help you with anything.

-Rob

 

Thanks for the response.
This was an old question after which I found the answer and added the oil pressure gauge.
Do you know what are the compression numbers for a new engine?

 

Since manual transmission is available in about 15% of cars, was this factor taken in consideration with this chart !?

Is the percentage a function of all manuals relative to auto ?

 

I am located just outside of DC. I am either having the engine rebuilt or just swapping a low mileage DE in eventually.

Compression was within acceptable standards, but it is not uncommon for OC engines to show good compression.

Don't know what an oil air separator is, so I'm gonna have to say I don't have one.

It smokes all the time.

 

oil air separator is inserted between the pcv valve and the suction line.
It accumulates the oil that evaporates from the engine.
This way it gives one an idea where is the oil disappearing, thru the rings or thru the pcv.
Mine has very little oil in the clear glass can, so that means the oil is going thru the rings.
Do you remember how the Spark plugs looked when you removed them ?
Was any oil on them ?

 

4 out of 6 spark plugs had oil on them and all smelled like fuel. Keep in mind, I had ART Pipes on the car for 500 miles. I think I was running way rich because of the TP thus the fuel smell.

The ART Pipes were removed and valve covers, PCV valve, oil, plugs were changed before I ever even started the car back up.

After that I did the flush and the engine smoked like crazy. Was a bad idea, but necessary for the techs to diagnose where I was losing my oil from. Smoked way more after the flush than it did before. Consumption got a little worse.

 

Factory Specs
Standard: 184psi
Limit: 142psi

-Rob

 

Do you guys think the oil consumption might be related to the valve cover seals being busted? I had two of my spark plugs flooded with oil during my last spark plug change. I have the 'new custom' valve covers, I just haven't gotten to replacing my old ones yet.

 

What color was you oil when you first noticed the OC problem?

Was it very dark, possibly indicating a lot of blow-by, or was it clean and light?

My reasoning is this:
If the oil was dark, this likely indicates blow-by, the obvious cause is bad rings, or possibly warped cylinders / pistons. But if the oil is light and clear, there mostly likely are not a lot of combustion gasses blowing by the rings. So, in this case, the oil is likely sucked out through the PCV valve, valve guides, or something else connected to the intake.

What do you think?

 

Responding to the question posed by "Braunschweiger:
The Oil was dark, but not from to much use.
Since the recession started, I moved my office to my house, so the car was driven only 20 miles per week or so.
After the dealer started the first oil test, I found out that the PCV valve was stuck !
After cleaning it the consumption went down, but still very close to the limit of under 1 quart per thousand miles.
After that I installed two clear glass oil-air separators and found out very little oil from the blow by accumulated in the PCV side. The other vacuum line is still clear!
That meant oil is passing thru the rings!
Since then I switched to 10W40 and now to half 10W40 and half 10W50 high mileage with Prolong!
Consumption is down to about 2/3 of a quart per 1000 miles.
Today, based on many recommendations, I added 1/2 can of "SEAFOAM" to the oil and half to the gas tank.
Instructions say to keep it like this for 100 to 300 miles and then replace the oil and filter.
The instructions also call for half a can thru the main vacuum line into the cylinders, but that I will reserve only if this cleaning does not help.
The reason being, that pouring it thru the vacuum hose will create a lot of white smoke which may alert some green peace neighbors!
Will see the results after that!
L.W.

 

I am looking to get 04 G35x down from a 2007 G35. Does OC affect this type..as in sedan AWD?

If i get the car i will look to change the plugs and if i find oil in there..would i just have to replace the valve covers

 

that sounds like a terrible move the 07 is so much better

 

1qt per 500 miles on my 2007 5AT (with only 40K on the odometer)

took almost a month of waiting and testing but i ended up being approved for a warranty short block, but however i am still waiting on the car to come back into my possession

 

When you have had the engine replaced...transmission issues and vibrations that won't go away..you would want to dump it as well.

I want lower/really no payments at all. Need to save for a house...not a car

 

my 04 G promptly needed a new engine...I suggest looking elsewhere if money is the problem. I had an 08 G35x loaner, the 04 is a ginormous luxury downgrade. not to mention the power downgrade