^^^ the thread is about oil consumption... doesn't matter what oil is used, there are several years/multi thousands of VQ engines with the consumption issue - and oil type hasn't been the common denominator.

BTW, what are you referencing as "these are oils"?

 

^ Agree and thread brought back from the archives. Doesn't matter which Group oil. I've tried them all and the VQ consumes them all.

 

Same here! but only 84,000 miles.

Never raced though.

 

NEED TO FIND OUT ONCE AND FOR ALL WHERE ARE THE PROBLEMS W/OIL CONSUMPTION COMMING FROM !!!!
1-PISTON RINGS
2-VALVES GUIDES
3-PCV VALVE
OR ANY OTHER.

FOR THIS I NEED TO GET THE FACTORY SPECS FOR COMPRESSION TEST.
MY TEST RESULTS AT 32,300 miles G35 SEDAN M6 WERE 180 TO 182 ON ALL CYLINDERS, BUT THE OIL KEEPS DISSAPEARING AND THE SECOND DEALER WAS NO HELP EITHER.
NEED SOMEONE TO FIND OUT THE FACTORY SPECS FOR COMPRESSION TEST.
WECHSLERL@AOL.COM:

 

After fixing the clugged PCV valve, oil consumption dropped from over 1 quart per 1000 to about 2/3 quart per 1000 miles, however, it did not stop.
Switched to 10W40 High Mileage to see what happends.
According to my research on many web sites, it will take several oil changes before any significant results .
That is because the oil additives inside it work slowly.
First the detergent part will remove any sticking materials and the oil seal conditioner will start expanding the seals.
Will report after at leat two oil changes, on any progress

 

Question to technically inclined members! Is the current oil pressure sender on the VQ35DE engine, a switch only, or it can be coupled to a pressure gauge?
If a new pressure sender is needed, then it will be good to keep the old one and the new one, so who makes an addaptor for two senders and what is the tread size on the existing sender?
Those of you who have done extensive modifications should know the answers!

Thanks
Leon Wechsler

 

I will see if i can compression test mine asap.

1. You wont know unless u do compression test, i think 210 is factory?
2. You just look in spark plug tubes (usually #6) and you will soon see
3. Take it off and inspect, inspect the vacume, and the line. Try using oil catch can.
4. who knows where else

 

^ PM'd ya!

Does anyone else have any idea how much a rebuild like this would cost?
I'm at over 107K miles with ongoing OC consumption issue. I'm thinking of trading the car in for something else if it won't last till 200K miles.

P.S. My wife is due for a new car and we've been looking at Subaru Foresters - I've been reading on the subaru forum of brand, spanking new 2011 Foresters burning oil as well. It seems like no matter how reliable cars are, they will have issues. No such thing as a perfect car these days. My first car was a 1989 Nissan Stanza and I've never had a problem with it. Maybe cars were made better back in the day....I donno.

 

Oh yes, it is a FACT that cars were produced to higher standards 10 years ago. My first car was a 1986 Honda Accord Lx-i 2 door hatchback. That little **** would flat out fly (2.0l EFI). I out ran a 1985 BMW M3 on the interstate with that little Honda. Speedo buried at 120 mph and that thing just kept on singing faster and faster, I could hear the governor on the M3 kick in were his rpms would not climb anymore. I could run Conv Oil in that Honda for 9k miles and not one drop would be gone, it would also not be in bad shape. I would fill back up my new oil bottles after the oil change and they would all be filled right up. I miss that damn Honda. Would of made me a great daily driver.

 

I'm burning oil at 75k on my 05 coupe a/t. Oh well time to save and build my motor.

 

2004 6mt Sedan...I'm consuming 1 quart every 500 miles. I just crossed over 100k OC started at 98k miles

 

2004 is not part of the problematic engines. 2005 and later are.
Yours just seem to be older in mileage.
1 quart per 500 miles is way to much.
Try the following before you need to overhaul the engine!
Check the PCV valve !, If it's stuck clean it with wd40, if OK buy a strong engine cleaner
together with a friction protector with ZDDP.
Add the ZDDP to a hot engine (1/2 a can) then add the engine cleaner and run it for 15 minutes only.
You can drive slow for 15 minutes or idle. This is recommended by infiniti Master Techs.
If there are any stuck rings, this should unstuck some of them (not all)
Drain oil and replace filter while engine is warm.
If after this, consumption does not improve, it's time to fix the rings.
If it improves 20% at least, do another one at 1000 miles.
I just order the cans from Ebay, they are made by BG.Products.
I will try all of them when they arrive next week, as a last resort!
LW

 

Here's what I have done so far....

Engine flush (using the product you described)
Change PCV
Change spark plugs
Change Valve Covers
Added BG MOA
Switched to a high mileage oil

My brother works for Nissan so I can get all the BG products for next to nothing. All of his master techs say that I need a new engine.

I have meticulously maintained and never beaten on this motor. All oil changes done with a quality synthetic oil at 2500 miles. Never consumed not even a drop between changes, then one night she starts smoking from the tailpipes. Checked the oil and it was down below half of the dipstick after 1000 miles of fresh oil.

BTW....I would not flush an oil consuming engine. It will make the OC worse. It did in my case.

 

^ Are you in PA? If so, where at?
So, which route will you go? Trade it in, get a new engine, or rebuild the whole thing?
Let me know as I'm having the same issue. I wonder if I should even go through what wechslerl recommended.

 

Did you check compression?

Do you have oil air separators?

is the smoke only at start or all the time !