i might be wrong but as a daily driver ( mobil-1 synthetic 5-30) is just as good to use as any other synthetic oil .. as long as i change my oil between 3-4,000 miles ..
i dont street race .. spirited driving on occasion .. on a highway ...
i wont have any problems ...

but

if i were tracking the car /racing/boosted ... i should go with an amsoil or european castrol syntheic aka full synthetic .. because the engine would need or i would like to know i have that extra protection ..

is this what it all boils down to ??



am i correct ?

 

That's about right. I use Penzoil Plat because it's a decent non-Group IV oil and I end up changing it at 3-4k anyway. ie.. the TBN seems to decline at that point but I'm changing it anyway.

If you are running a boosted motor, then you definately need the extra protection a true synthetic can offer.

I might try running the diesel Rotella or Mobil diesel oil. I'm just not sure about running the thicker 40w vs the recommended 30w. I know it's no problem actually running that weight but I don't know if it's at a slight performance detriment. I'd have to look at a viscosity rating or something. If it actually rates closer to a 30w, I'd be much more receptive to running it.

 

Jeff92se- you're obviously a bright guy, so why would present an argument that may in itself be valid, but does not address the issues HighTechOilCo and I are referring to (Ignoratio elenchi- also known as irrelevant conclusion). Read my comments carefully-- what I'm only stating is that one can't make the claims made by many on this thread and others based on the evidence presented: that's it, period! The conclusions might be correct, but you know as well as I do that we can't just spit out global information w/o referencing a credible source.

I'm familiar with the BITOG forum and visit often (and this is a fairly credible source), but actually have gotten most of my info from this PDF, which is written by a lubrication specialist and SAE certified motor oil engineer:

http://www.motor-oil-engineers.com/M...eers%20PDF.pdf

Not exactly a good novel for the evening, but pretty solid material- 120 pages of pure science on lubrication and oil engineering. G'nite

 

Well considering you haven't pointed out to any specific claim or person, I can't really reply. I'll again say that we all have two choices in the matter. Base our oil decision on maker advertising or the less then perfect data that's found by impartial 3rd parties.

I haven't said or even disagreed with his/your opinion. I was only trying to qualify some of the member's conclusions regarding their oil decisions. Again, if we have to adhere to your logic, then you both cannot accurately suggest one oil over another for our specific application. Yet, hitech has done just that.

Looks like a great read though. It should be part of a FAQ (if the info I browsed is as good as it looks). He is partial to Amsoil. To the point of capitializing it's name and none of the others.

Did you happen to read his definition of Group III oils and how it can technicall be called a synthetic but isn't by the traditional Group IV or V sense? See how that applies to the email I received from Mobil 1?

 

chick fight!

 

Stop hijacking the thread and add meaningful material/value to it instead!

 

ok.

 

i changed it this weekend and maaaaaan! I think the only hard part(time consuming) was taking off the plastic guard! thanks for your help!!

 

What a thread!

When is the last time anyone has heard of an oil related engine failure?

Use the proper weight oil and filter. Change your oil every 3 to 6 thousand miles and you will be fine. We are not talking about race cars with $40,000 engines spinning at 9000 rpm's. Brand simply dose NOT make a difference.

 

I have seen lots of "Oil Related" engine failures. Mostly due to NOT checking the level or NOT changing it often enough.

 

Exactly- other than neglect- when is the last time you have heard of a OIL related engine failure?

My point is too many people focus on brand. The fact is it just does not matter.

 

I think brand matters when your racing or really pushing your car. There is evidence that synthetics have superior lubrication and cleaning qualities over dyno fluid.

My 3 ancient Volvos combined have >1.25 million miles w/o engine, tranny or electrical problems/repairs. All ran on dyno. It's highly unlikely that G's on average will exceed 300K, especially if pushed the way most are. But overall, I think you're right, it's less the fluid and more the comprehensive care of the car that determines it's life!

 

You still think Mobil 1 is a Group IV based synthetic?

 

How old is this thread, this is why I switched to Red Line 10W/30 back then
even though it costs twice as much....I don't doubt what I'm using. Strange
I rarely listen to anyone elses opinions....
Gary

 

Mobil 1 is a phosphodiester bonded, polymer based, synthetic lubricant with anagrelide, isosorbide momonitrate and hydroxychloroquine additives not found in other synthetics.

Jeff, Jeff, Jeff.... it doesn't really matter what I think about Mobil 1. The context of our (the last couple of commentators) collective comments was that the most important variable is not your oil alone, it's how you maintain and use your car overall.