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10-40??? Dealer’s fix for my oil burning problem?

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  #31  
Old 06-05-2007, 12:29 PM
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i use Mobile 1 0W/40 as well - haven't consumed any oil. car has 23K miles on it (05 g35 coupe). The oil will not shear down in the time frame of the recommended oil change interval. This is a very, very good oil. if you go to bob is the oil guys web site and look at the oil analysis done using this oil on various vehicles, you'll see that this particular mobile 1 holds up extremely well on all vehicles and ours in particular.

i also looked at redline, but it doesn't produce very good used oil analysis results. don't be fooled by the line given that its "cleaning what the old oil left", as there have been users of this oil with over 100K miles of constant use which still produce just plain bad results (ie, high wear).
 
  #32  
Old 06-06-2007, 03:46 PM
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I have always been intrigued by this topic (oil consumption) and why it only affects rev-up motors.

The conclusion I come to is two-fold.

1. People who buy 6-speeds are going to beat the hell out of their car compared to the 5at

2. if you drive the 6 speed normally you are frequently shifting at 5-6K due to the low gearing, if you drive the 5at, it short shifts below 3K unless you are really stepping on it.

3. If you are driving a 6mt in the mountains (this is where mine uses tons of oil) the car may sit between 5 and 7K for extended periods of time sometimes with the throttle closed (extreme vacuum). If you have a 5at and let off the gas, it immediatly drops to 5th gear - no vacuum. It is common for me to go through deals gap in second gear, running up to red line and leaving it there becuase it takes more time to shift into 3rd and then back to 2nd. In a weekend at deals gap I will go through more than a quart of oil. On the trip to deals gap which is 1000 miles for me, I will not use a drop (crusing at 80-90ish in 6th gear) even if I am pulling a trailer.

Unless there is a true defect in the ring pack, the only time oil should be consumed is when it is being sucked in under extremely high vacuum. If this is the case it doesn't bother me a bit. What would bother me is if the rings are not holding a seal under pressure causing enough blow-by to push oil through the pcv system right into the intake to be burned. The reason this would bother me is that I am losing power both to the blow by which is not putting pressure on the piston, and also the lowering of the octane of the fuel do to the addition of oil. Maybe this is why my car pings non-stop.

Having raced many vehicles with racing engines (which ours is not), it is not uncommon for oil consumption to be high. My buddies new BMW M6 uses more than a quart of oil every 600 miles. The dealer tells him it is normal for that engine and if he spent less time at 8,000rpm the oil consumption would go down.

I would be very surprised if the rev-up vs non rev-up engines had different ring packs, and pistons - which would leave the oil use to the extra few RPM (sometimes rings can flutter) or the fact that manual transmission cars are frequently in high vacuum high rpm deceleration that an auto car will never see.


Again if I drive on the highway towing a trailer for 2000 miles, I use no oil. One weekend of racing through the mountains I will use a quart in a weekend (about 300 miles)

Normal? Maybe
 

Last edited by CBRworm; 06-06-2007 at 03:48 PM.
  #33  
Old 03-08-2024, 10:11 AM
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Black and Chrome All Round Beige Interior
Agreed

Originally Posted by bocatrip
If driving in a all year round warm climate, I would not suggest a 30 weight oil, especially a multigrade such as a 5w/30 or 10w/30 which is even thinner that a straight 30. Ideally, you would want a straight 30 except for start ups when you want the thinnest oil possible. That is why I use Mobile 1 0W/40 in the extreme florida heat. I would have used 0W/30 if it were not for the thin quality of most multigrade 30 weights. For whatever it might be worth, I have researched this subject to death in many forums and am very **** about my car in general. I would never put anything in my car that might hurt it.
👆 Agreed. I can say these cars have run here in my country which is A Hot Climate on 10w40 ... Unless u have a really new Model u would go to the w30's... It's been tried and proven for years now... If ure with an older model 07 and so down it's 10w40 for u in the heat... I'm in a club. It's worked fine for years Here!! Cheers..
 
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