I always wandered if VDC effects the nitrous when slipping occurs. I assumed if you're spraying and the VDC cuts the engine power then your engine is doomed.

 

Put 15K and rebuild the motor from bottom up. I was thinking along that way when or if I have extra money. I read some where about 2 or 3 out of 10 FI got their motor damaged.
Stay N/A.

 

I think your the only one who saw that post.

 

how many horses is it at the wheels? if its 293 at the crank?

anyways, like they said above...WHP is what matters.

lets say you have 250 at the wheels...to start off i'd say:

Cold air Intake, Whole exhaust set up (headers to muffler), Pulleys, bigger fuel injectors. 270 whp you might end up with.

its alot of work to get it to 300 whp

forced induction is the way to go. if you want a cheaper FI then go supercharger. Turbos take alot of work and money. Turbos are nice tho.

Its on you.

 

Turn VDC off maybe?

 

Seriously, who's going to spray with VDC on....

 

get a Flux Capacitor and a tune/re-flash from Doc Brown and be done with it !!!! hhhaaha

 

Cheapest and most reliable way to 300whp? Get a different car.

Used STI, used EVO, used 03/04 Cobra, new Mazdaspeed 3, used GTO, used C5, new Mustang GT, used 300C/Magnum/Charger are all capable of 300whp with little to no mods and all can be had for around $25-30K.

 

but none of those are as sexy as the G

 

that's f***en hilarious...

like, seriously??

 

you speak as if I'm new to modding. VDC does not fully disable unless you remove the fuse or relay. Turning it off doesn't mean ****. Extreme will spin will cause it to kick in.

 

you can also get it to turn off by doin a fast 180. It fully turned off when i was driftin in the rain and spun out.

 

Seriously Just do some FI or fully build the build. Bolt on's will any get you ovwer 300 at the crank, not wheels