I have heard several folks recommend waiting at least 15 minutes before pushing the G35, but that time obviously depends on the starting temperature. I would like a better indication of when my G35 is ready and eager to be pushed.

Is the coolant temperature given by our stock gauge a good enough indicator? If not, how much more time is needed? I would think that this extra time could vary with starting temperature also.

Would an oil pressure gauge be the next best indication? I assume that the time required for oil pressure to reach steady operating pressure is longer than the time required for coolant to reach steady operating temperature. For those of you who have oil pressure gauges, how much longer does it take?

Are oil temperature gauges available?

<font color=red>2004 G35 Sedan 6MT Desert Platinum/Willow</font color=red>

 

As I understand it, oil pressure actually drops a bit once the oil is warmed up. That would be the ideal time.

I just wait until the coolant needle is in the middle where it normally would be. If it's a cold day, I'll sometimes force the car into a lower gear so it warms up quicker.. but that's usually so the interior heater will engage sooner. [img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img] It's also good to give it a few seconds after starting before sticking it in gear.. let the oil have a chance to circulate just a little before putting a load on the engine.

On autocross days, I leave the car idling in the grid before the group starts, and leave it idling between runs.

 

same... i wait until the needle is in the middle... wait meaning... i dont drive hard untill it does...

 

Luckily I have my car parked in a garage so I just wait until my garage door opens and drive with low rpms. When the needle is in the middle, I then drive as hard as I want.

 

Your oil will be at full temperature before your coolant.

If your coolant temp is at normal operating temp, it is safe to say that the oil temp is also at normal temp. So just use your temperature gauge to decide when the car is fully warmed up.

 

That is what I have been doing, taking it easy until the temperature hits normal. Sounds like a reasonable plan.

Yes, the oil pressure will be higher when the oil is cold, as it is more viscous. I was just curious if the oil pressure levels out (oil warms up to operating temperature) before or after the coolant temperature does. I think some posters here are under the impression that the oil takes longer to warm up. Someone with an oil pressure gauge should be able to tell us for sure.

<font color=red>2004 G35 Sedan 6MT Desert Platinum/Willow</font color=red>

 

i think the best way to judge it is this:
-start engine
-when rpm drops to 1k, you can start going slowly (i personally dont exceed 2k rpm)
-when temp needle reaches 1/4 (some prefer 1/2 way), it is ok to push it a bit harder.
*note: personally, i dont really floor it until after like 5-10 minutes of driving. and plus, im on a mission to save gas (got 20 MPG!!!) so i shift at 2k all the time.

G35S 6MT
Technosquare ECU
350Z Springs & Struts
JWT popcharger + Z-tube
Stillen True Dual Exhaust
6-wire ground kit

 

Your coolant will be fully warm a long time before your oil. I have an oil temp gauge and it can take a long time from a cold start to get it warmed up.

Warmed coolant is no indication of a warmed up engine.

I don't know the answer to the real question of when to wait to get on the car, but if you want to know when your engine is warmed up, the best way is to install an oil temp gauge.

Most people don't fuss with it. I never did before my current car because oil temp is the key indicator. Multi-viscosity oil has different characteristics at different temperatures.

 

Also, something else to note is getting your drivetrain up to temp. Just because you let your car idle and reach operating temp, I still wouldn't jump on it to hard. Your tranny and rear differential oils are cold and won't offer maximum protection. The quickest and most efficient way is to bring the whole car up to temp by driving it slowly for the first 5-10 minutes.

2003 G35 Sedan 6MT
14.35 @ 98.62

 

My last car had an oil temp gauge and a coolant temp gauge. The oil ALWAYS was at full operating temp before the coolant.

Think about it- the oil is just 5 quarts and is totally contained in the engine block. There is much more coolant and it recirculates through the radiator (after the thermostat opens).

Trust me, your oil is warm before your coolant.

 

Fair enough. It's not something worth arguing about. In my current car, the water temp is fully up a long time before my OEM oil temp gauge even moves. I haven't been in a car that didn't have the water temp up to normal in several minutes, unless it was ***** cold outside. But to get the oil temp to 175-200, there's no way that happens in several minutes unless you ride the car hard.

The whole point of his question was when to begin beating on the car. I don't have an answer to the question.

We can agree to disagree. I've had this car for 4 years and not once has the oil temp rised in conjunction with the water temp. Maybe my car is a freak of engineering.

 

I have always started my car and driven at a low moderate speed for the first few minutes...it seems to speed up the warm up process and still at the same time not putting any unnecessary strain on the drive train components/lubricants.

Once my car "feels" like it is warm and ready, then I proceed to drive in my normal manner.

I really take it easy in the winter months with the exceptional cold temps...20 degrees or lower...then the car really needs a considerable length of time to warm to operating temperature.

Can't hurt to show some love the first few moments of start up.

I know I'm not ready to rip around when my feet hit the floor in the morning...takes a little time to get myself moving as well! [img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img] and at 52 yrs old, I'm no longer in warranty! [img]/w3timages/icons/wink.gif[/img] [img]/w3timages/icons/tongue.gif[/img] <font color=blue>2old4this</font color=blue>


04 cpe IP/willow/5at/prem/18's/JDM clear corners/Piaa's/MTEC H4 Super White fog/highs

 

do you guys have the same prob as I do.If I'm in a hurry and have to floor it to get out of a driveway on to a main street with cars comming while the engine is cold, the exhaust sounds extra tinny like a four cylinder.after it's warm, I never have the prob. I was thinking it was from the condensation in the exhaust pipes when I start it,and after the water all evaporates the noise is gone.Am I right? Or is there a problem with my Stillen exhaust?

Dark Side Of The Moon

 

I remember reading somewhere the AT doesn't like to shift until the tranny fluid temp reaches 160 degrees. I know my car shifts at a lower RPM once it warms up for a while, so that factoid rings true.

'03 G35 5AT Sedan, Garnet Fire/Willow
Staggered 18" SSR GT1/Bridgestone PP S03s
Eibach Springs/Anti-Sway Kit, Stillen 2-pc BBK
Stillen SS Cat-Back Dual Exhaust System