Bolt Ons + Reflash=300whp
#46
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#47
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Originally Posted by Startbutton99
This is me after spending like 3k in parts for my engine alone.. add 1-2k for installations.
i'd say screw NA, go FI!
the next step for me is either cams or stroker kit. I plan on staying NA. But its really costing me. ALL this just to prevent my engine from blowing up on me. However ive talked to many differen turbo/supercharger owners going 30-40k miles on their engine with FI. So it IS do-able if done right! TUNED correctly!
For 300hp NA. good luck!.. its not easy, or cheap. With the same money ur going to spend u can get closer to 400 easy going FI.
ITs up to u!
i'd say screw NA, go FI!
the next step for me is either cams or stroker kit. I plan on staying NA. But its really costing me. ALL this just to prevent my engine from blowing up on me. However ive talked to many differen turbo/supercharger owners going 30-40k miles on their engine with FI. So it IS do-able if done right! TUNED correctly!
For 300hp NA. good luck!.. its not easy, or cheap. With the same money ur going to spend u can get closer to 400 easy going FI.
ITs up to u!
#48
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Originally Posted by Startbutton99
and still ur gonna get burned by a 335! hahaha
unless u go stroker ur not gonna hang with a 335. stroker kits cost more than FI, normally.
even with a stroker kit.. when the 335 chips with vishnu and adds an exhaust their at 420hp.. and ur once again toast!..
FI ftw!
unless u go stroker ur not gonna hang with a 335. stroker kits cost more than FI, normally.
even with a stroker kit.. when the 335 chips with vishnu and adds an exhaust their at 420hp.. and ur once again toast!..
FI ftw!
#49
Originally Posted by mgunner2006
i spoke with my tuner and after a long conversation... he asked me something if i want a daily or a track car???!!!
#50
Originally Posted by usmcmark
what he ment by that was, to get you at 300whp N/A you'd compromise alot of drivability. i love my car's new power curve, it's perfectly balenced(for my tastes). i don't get too caught up in dyno numbers these days, the more i read the more i realize dyno's are way to inconsistent to get all caught up w/peak gains. it's the over all gain across the band and how the car drives that matters. i've been told by several different guys that my car on the right dyno on the right day could pull very near 300(280ish)whp. i also know that a lightly modded 6MT G could burn me on the streets. so, it's all about you gettin' ur car tuned to a point that you'll be happy with... hope that helps.
#51
Just by my ATI Procharger kit from me....Its posted up in the Classifieds with alot of goodies for sale with it shipped right to your door..you will not need anymore parts at all just install tune and ready to run..I had 380rwhp with my kit and 364lb of torque....myone suggestion would be to buld your bottom end of your engine and you will be over 400 at the wheels with my kit for sure! I didnt build the bottom end and it was to late once I found out that my tune was to aggressive and I ended up with 2 rods through my oil pan....
#52
Originally Posted by Gee3point5Mhmm
I do not think going NA will compromise your drivability. In fact i think it should be better. With the added power and linear power curve it should be a blast to drive. Granted you are not making as much power as a FI so gripping the pavement should be easy and it wouldnt be as peaky and will be alot more predictable in driving or autocrossing. A correctly built high compressed NA motor will be more of a blast to drive (the sounds and the high redline is awesome) compared to FI IMO. The reason people choose FI is because the power gain can be had cheaper than a fully built motor and also that FI has potential for more power, while built motors are limited but nothing a little NO2 cant fix
Last edited by SDGenius; 04-13-2008 at 08:27 AM.
#53
Originally Posted by usmcmark
well, i beg to differ my friend. their are so many factors: how loud ur engine and exhaust get(in cabin noise & vibrations), where ur power is(high peak numbers=higher RPMs), emisssions, gas milage, dependability... DRIVABILITY. there's a reason they don't put race engine's in street cars. you want big numbers from an N/A motor, put a V8 in it. ur V6 does have more power to be unlocked, don't get me wrong.... but the more you gain, the more you lose. feel me?
#54
Originally Posted by Gee3point5Mhmm
you still havent describe how drivability is lost, you are just stating it. My opinions and yours differ but you have to go into detail how a built NA loses drivability, i put forth input on how it is better I would like you to be more specific on how it is not. And if you are in high rpms of course there will be excessive engine and cabin noise. But i'm guessing if you are in those power ranges you are opening her up and would rather hear the roar.
how loud ur engine and exhaust get(in cabin noise & vibrations), where ur power is(high peak numbers=higher RPMs), emisssions, gas milage, dependability = DRIVABILITY
get it? and what i ment by my comment about high RPMs was; high peak gains are in high RPMs, how much time do you spend in high RPMs on a day to day basis? not much, that's why mid gains and a broad power band are what's really gonna make ur car feel faster. NOT top end numbers that only matter on a dyno. as far as cabin noise, a built NA engine(v6 pushing 320+ to the wheels) is loud & vibrating throughout the power band. get it?
Last edited by SDGenius; 04-13-2008 at 07:02 PM.
#55
Gee3point5Mhmm,
the engine characteristics you're lookin' for are in a V8 or a V6 w/a roots type blower NOT a fully built V6. think about it, if a "correctly built high compression NA motor" could be built w/those characteristics(high HP while maintaining drivability), why hasn't anyone(car company) put one in a street car??? really think about that... even cams, let alone a fully built engine w/low compression, compromise too much drivability. if the R-Tune cams can get you 20 more HP, then why doesn't Nissan just make them standard??? come on, even bolt on's... why don't car companies just squeeze every bit of power out of there cars??? DRIVABILITY, that's why... get it?
DOMO
the engine characteristics you're lookin' for are in a V8 or a V6 w/a roots type blower NOT a fully built V6. think about it, if a "correctly built high compression NA motor" could be built w/those characteristics(high HP while maintaining drivability), why hasn't anyone(car company) put one in a street car??? really think about that... even cams, let alone a fully built engine w/low compression, compromise too much drivability. if the R-Tune cams can get you 20 more HP, then why doesn't Nissan just make them standard??? come on, even bolt on's... why don't car companies just squeeze every bit of power out of there cars??? DRIVABILITY, that's why... get it?
DOMO
Last edited by SDGenius; 04-13-2008 at 07:22 PM.
#57
#58
Originally Posted by usmcmark
wow, i thought i made it pretty clear...
how loud ur engine and exhaust get(in cabin noise & vibrations), where ur power is(high peak numbers=higher RPMs), emisssions, gas milage, dependability = DRIVABILITY
how loud ur engine and exhaust get(in cabin noise & vibrations), where ur power is(high peak numbers=higher RPMs), emisssions, gas milage, dependability = DRIVABILITY
dependability (reliability)... well if you are going NA or FI you have to build your internals... Forged pistons, rods, titanium valves, better main studs, etc. These will in essence increase your reliability given a good tune and a caring owner. Given the same amount of abuse the stock one will for one die quicker...
Anything can be a DD. IT ALL DEPENDS ON THE YOU GUESSED IT..TUNE! Go to my350z and go to the NA section and look at z1performance thread. He built a high compression VQ that screams all the way to 8k rpm. Look at the curve see how it is linear and much broader than stock, so when you state that power in high rpms is where he will only be making effiecient power the same can be said when he is in 3k range, which is when the engine isn't noisy yet..
And to your input on car manufacture not producing race engines. Yes, it is for economical reasons (ie "drivability") and market targets, but those are part of a miniscule figure of the whole market.. You have to realize upgrading better components means UPGRADING overall pricing. You can probably max out the VQ naturally aspirated style with all the best parts you can get, BUt guess what? the MSRP will be more than 30-35k that is for sure. You say drivability is what keeps the manufacturers from producing these race engines I say it is the market for which many are factors.. and your "driveability" is only of small significance.
Last edited by Gee3point5Mhmm; 04-14-2008 at 02:59 AM.
#60
Originally Posted by BlueDevilBAMF