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ses light code p1084 HELP!

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  #31  
Old 07-29-2014, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by "g"orge
Thank you! Keep me posted..
So I replaced my sensor over the weekend and everything appears to be good so far. Idle has been normal.
But before I replaced the sensor, my idle would only be high after long hot drives and would be normal again once the car cooled down. It's been pretty hot lately here but I haven't gone on any long drives yet. I'll keep you posted if the code comes back.
 
  #32  
Old 07-29-2014, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dc2long
Originally Posted by "g"orge
Thank you! Keep me posted..
So I replaced my sensor over the weekend and everything appears to be good so far. Idle has been normal. But before I replaced the sensor, my idle would only be high after long hot drives and would be normal again once the car cooled down. It's been pretty hot lately here but I haven't gone on any long drives yet. I'll keep you posted if the code comes back.
Cool! Hopefully ill get some time to switch out the sensor. This light is killin' me.. Thanks!
 
  #33  
Old 09-03-2014, 03:38 AM
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G35 Coupe 6MT
Can someone with a successful attempt to fix the P1084 code post the proper part number of the item that needs to be purchased?

Also, please confirm that it is: Driver Side - EVT straight sensor.

I want to have this fixed once and for good.

Thank you!
 
  #34  
Old 09-03-2014, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 05CoupeMT
Can someone with a successful attempt to fix the P1084 code post the proper part number of the item that needs to be purchased?

Also, please confirm that it is: Driver Side - EVT straight sensor.

I want to have this fixed once and for good.

Thank you!
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...osition+sensor

this is what i used for my P1084 code. The driver side straight sensor for my 05 6mt.
Code hasnt come back on ever since. A lot of people prefer the OEM sensor over aftermarket but I havent had any issues with mine yet.
 
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  #35  
Old 09-04-2014, 05:29 AM
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G35 Coupe 6MT
Originally Posted by dc2long
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...osition+sensor

this is what i used for my P1084 code. The driver side straight sensor for my 05 6mt.
Code hasnt come back on ever since. A lot of people prefer the OEM sensor over aftermarket but I havent had any issues with mine yet.
Correct me if i am wrong please, even-though the website states "Camshaft Position Sensor", the same sensor can be used as the "Exhaust Valve Timing" sensor which is the what P1084 code stand for?
 
  #36  
Old 09-04-2014, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 05CoupeMT
Correct me if i am wrong please, even-though the website states "Camshaft Position Sensor", the same sensor can be used as the "Exhaust Valve Timing" sensor which is the what P1084 code stand for?
Correct.
The camshaft and exhaust valve sensor are the same.
Both sides have a straight and angled sensor (this only applies to 6mt). P1084 is the straight sensor for the driver side.
 
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  #37  
Old 09-11-2014, 01:55 PM
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So finally had a chance to get my evt sensor changed(driver side, bank 2). So far so good. Idle is good, cel light off.. Thanks!
 
  #38  
Old 09-11-2014, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by "g"orge
So finally had a chance to get my evt sensor changed(driver side, bank 2). So far so good. Idle is good, cel light off.. Thanks!
Nice! did you have any issues getting the sensor out?
 
  #39  
Old 09-12-2014, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by "g"orge
So finally had a chance to get my evt sensor changed(driver side, bank 2). So far so good. Idle is good, cel light off.. Thanks!
was it hard to reach the sensor? wish you took some pics of the location of the sensor or how the process was made and had them posted.
 
  #40  
Old 09-19-2014, 09:57 PM
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It was a pain to get out tbh. Literally right next to cam sensor on drivers side. Can actually look straight down and see it. Just do it when car is cold because u gotta stick your hand down there. But, yea. As soon as i started the car, idle was perfect and light was gone. Thanks!
 
  #41  
Old 10-04-2015, 05:15 PM
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Hello every1, go to page 538 and follow instructions... I had the same problem on my 350z MT and did troubleshooting like this. G and Z both have the same engine, so u can go for it
350z 06 Factory Service Manual - ECM
 
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  #42  
Old 01-30-2016, 09:19 PM
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I hate wiring harness connectors with the fiery passion of 10,000 suns.

I couldn't get it loose, so I pulled the sensor out still connected thinking it would be easier. Nope. The POS wouldn't come loose. Ended up snapping the clip, which means I'm going to have to freaking cut the wires and splice a new one on.

So who knows where to get one of the connectors for these? Courtesyparts.com doesn't seem to have them that I can find.
 
  #43  
Old 06-28-2018, 08:19 AM
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Dredging up an old thread because I read this whole thing to solve the exact problem. I bought the 05 6MT for my son. I drove it for some reason, and went to pass another car. It was on a 4 lane and they were hogging the fast lane so I was going to zoom past them in the slow lane. There wasn't much zoom to the pass, and I thought, this thing should have more power than that. A few weeks went by and the car needed the first oil change since our ownership. I then noticed (before the oil change) that the SES light was on and it was high idling. It hadn't been on during the lack of zoom event from above. Maybe it high idled (about 1,100 rpm) before, but I hadn't noticed.

I just figured, this light is on based on oil change timing. I did the oil & filter change (which is another story … why does Nissan need 400 fasteners to hold the engine bottom cover on?), and got on the net to look up how to clear the code. You know, it's usually a series of button pushes or something. I didn't find anything. So I got my BT OBD-II connector and attached it to the OBD port. I fired up my smartphone's Carista app (an app I downloaded primarily for a different vehicle). It read P1084 detected and P1084 pending. So I read about P1084 (EVTS), but decided just to clear the code, maybe it was set from running on the low side of oil capacity. Fired the car up … high idle, no zoom.

Then I found this thread. I want to clarify something that probably half of you may know already. But I'm stating this from the point of view as a former Toyota & Hyundai design engineer, not being a smarty pants, and not knowing this information factually. There are 2 sensors to the rear of each bank. One has an elbow, one is straight. One has been referred to as a cam position sensor, and one is called exhaust valve timing sensor. This is what I believe, but is not 100% clear in this thread. Both are cam position sensors. One is looking at the exhaust cam, one is looking at the intake cam. So the ECU can safely adjust their timing based on rpm, for increased power and mpg. The way I observed it was the green headed sensor was the "cam position sensor." Or, the intake cam position sensor. And the black headed one was the exhaust cam position sensor. All 4 sensors are the same basic sensor, but one has a bend to it the other is straight. I figure as an engineer, the shape has to do with fit, accessibility, wire harness routing. Maybe all of those, one of those, or a mixture. Maybe something else.

But what I needed was the straight black one on the driver's side (P1084 bank 2). I bought the following from RockAuto: DELPHI SS10818 {#237316J90B} (Standard Replacement). 23731-6J90B is the Nissan part number. RockAuto called it: "Cam Position Sensor." My point above is, all 4 of them are cam position sensors, so don't get hung up on the name. The code P1084 bank 2, tells you which one, which is the straight one. That sensor was less than $41, plus shipping, it was in the $45 zone. Got to my house in 3 days.

I mainly make this post because the G35driver forums are so helpful, and I want to contribute. Below is the main contribution.

Installation. I removed the intake from the airbox to and including the throttle body. Not bad at all to do that. I then found the green angle sensor easy to get to, but the black one NOT EASY, near impossible to get a wrench on. I needed to remove the black straight one. I went and watched a bunch of youtube videos, and it's amazing the B.S. of bad and wrong information about this … to finally get to a good one. There was one guy, a black guy with really big forearms that made it look easy. My arms, while not as big as his, are big. What he did was stand on the passenger side, reach his left arm between the engine / intake and firewall, and he could put his hand on either sensor. He popped the connector off, and put a socket wrench on the bolt and removed all that blind.

At that point, since I had everything else off, I had my son join me and had him clean and scrub the throttle body (with a toothbrush, throttle body cleaner and paper towels) while I try what the guy did on the video. Holy cow, it was very easy doing it that way. I could have changed that sensor in 15 minutes and not removed ANYTHING. But, since I had removed stuff, I had my son clean it while it was out. I replaced that sensor and when I was done, my son had the throttle body cleaned. It wasn't horrible, but it did need a cleaning.

I bolted it all back together, and … NO ZOOM AND HIGH IDLE. I read about it again. I found out that disconnecting the throttle body (especially when not disconnecting the battery (which I did forget to disconnect it)) puts the ECU in failsafe mode. So, I did the procedure to calibrate the throttle body, I forget what the sequence is called. And then BLAM, SES Light OFF, idles at about 600 rpm, and full power restored! I checked the codes again and they had self cleared.

I hope this long post helps somebody. The G35 is running great! I've done a fair amount to this vehicle since it was purchased. Some repair due to a light collision, replaced the clutch, sent the fuel gauge off for calibration, and replaced this sensor. Probably very little compared to some, but a lot for a vehicle I don't use myself much.

This thread was APPRECIATED!


7milesout
 
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  #44  
Old 06-29-2018, 06:38 AM
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G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
Since you have been a member here for almost a year you know how awesome this site is as a resource for all things G. Your post was and I hope all of our newer members who read it will pick up on the fact there is so much information out on the internet that they can access to help solve a myriad of problems with their cars. Most however are part of what I call the "instant gratification" generation and they start an account here, ask questions that can be answered in less than a second using Google and get butthurt when we suggest they do some research before they post. I "gently remind" them that is actually a forum rule they are expected to abide by.

Good luck with the Delphi sensor and don't be surprised if it fails prematurely. It's common knowledge here that most of the time our motors don't usually play nice with aftermarket sensors. If you don't have that issue down the road you'll join a fairly exclusive club that got lucky. If it does fail I found the OEM cheapest on Amazon but someone else posted recently they found them even cheaper somewhere else. For the life of me I can't find that post fml hehe.

Glad you're part of the family and we hope you stick around.
 
  #45  
Old 06-29-2018, 07:37 AM
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Thanks - You may not see me much in here. Because I won't see the car all that much over the next 4 years. My son is one of those instant gratification types. Too many video games. He's about to go off to college and he'll take the car with him. He's really good at being mechanically responsible with his car. He drives the stick well, and doesn't abuse the car. The slight collision damage was prior to our ownership. I'm hoping it goes the next 4 years mostly problem free. He won't be but an hour or so away so I can still help him with the car. It's a very solid car for the low $ I spent. And it drives like a dream, everything works and good cold A/C. MPG is in the toilet, but whatever. He got it during his senior year of high school. And his high school is only about 1.5 miles away. A little around town driving too, and his mpg hovers around 15 mpg. I knocked down 25 mpg with it on the interstate, so I know it is running nominally, no problems. Probably needs some spark plugs though, at 110k miles, and I doubt they've ever been changed.


7milesout
 


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