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Thanks - You may not see me much in here. Because I won't see the car all that much over the next 4 years. My son is one of those instant gratification types. Too many video games. He's about to go off to college and he'll take the car with him. He's really good at being mechanically responsible with his car. He drives the stick well, and doesn't abuse the car. The slight collision damage was prior to our ownership. I'm hoping it goes the next 4 years mostly problem free. He won't be but an hour or so away so I can still help him with the car. It's a very solid car for the low $ I spent. And it drives like a dream, everything works and good cold A/C. MPG is in the toilet, but whatever. He got it during his senior year of high school*. And his high school is only about 1.5 miles away. A little around town driving too, and his mpg hovers around 15 mpg. I knocked down 25 mpg with it on the interstate, so I know it is running nominally, no problems. Probably needs some spark plugs though, at 110k miles, and I doubt they've ever been changed.
7milesout
Can you post the link to YouTube you mentioned above. Ironically got the 1084 code today. Thanks for you contribution!
Long time lurker giving back... Recently the wife's 2005 G35 6MT has been idling high with loss of power. Pulled codes and got P1084 and P1078. I cleared the codes and then got just P1084 - Exhaust Valve Timing Control Position Sensor Bank 2.
Thanks to this thread I was able to confirm this is the same straight 23731-6J90B Camshaft Position Bank 1 sensor. If you get P1084 and suspect it's a bad sensor, you can swap the two and should get the P0340 code after the swap. This will rule out wiring issues, etc.
If you get P1078, that's the other EVT angled Bank 1 sensor 23731-AL61A, which is the same as Camshaft Position Sensor Bank 2 (or code P0345).
The connectors for 23731-6J90B are green, white the connectors for 23731-AL61A are black.
All four can be accessed from the passenger side, as noted in the last video posted.
Just wanted to say 'thank you' to everyone that contributed to this thread. My SES light came on yesterday morning while I was cruising down the highway. There was no noticeable loss in acceleration, but when I came to a stop, I got the high idle around 1000 rpms. The issue went away after I parked it for about an hour and then started it back up for my short drive home. I pulled the codes with my OBD reader and got 1084.
Just a heads up for anyone else that gets this issue - I went ahead and searched for the exhaust valve timing control position sensor for bank 2 and saw that 23731-6J90B has been replaced by 23731-6J90D.
Dredging up an old thread because I read this whole thing to solve the exact problem. I bought the 05 6MT for my son. I drove it for some reason, and went to pass another car. It was on a 4 lane and they were hogging the fast lane so I was going to zoom past them in the slow lane. There wasn't much zoom to the pass, and I thought, this thing should have more power than that. A few weeks went by and the car needed the first oil change since our ownership. I then noticed (before the oil change) that the SES light was on and it was high idling. It hadn't been on during the lack of zoom event from above. Maybe it high idled (about 1,100 rpm) before, but I hadn't noticed.
I just figured, this light is on based on oil change timing. I did the oil & filter change (which is another story … why does Nissan need 400 fasteners to hold the engine bottom cover on?), and got on the net to look up how to clear the code. You know, it's usually a series of button pushes or something. I didn't find anything. So I got my BT OBD-II connector and attached it to the OBD port. I fired up my smartphone's Carista app (an app I downloaded primarily for a different vehicle). It read P1084 detected and P1084 pending. So I read about P1084 (EVTS), but decided just to clear the code, maybe it was set from running on the low side of oil capacity. Fired the car up … high idle, no zoom.
Then I found this thread. I want to clarify something that probably half of you may know already. But I'm stating this from the point of view as a former Toyota & Hyundai design engineer, not being a smarty pants, and not knowing this information factually. There are 2 sensors to the rear of each bank. One has an elbow, one is straight. One has been referred to as a cam position sensor, and one is called exhaust valve timing sensor. This is what I believe, but is not 100% clear in this thread. Both are cam position sensors. One is looking at the exhaust cam, one is looking at the intake cam. So the ECU can safely adjust their timing based on rpm, for increased power and mpg. The way I observed it was the green headed sensor was the "cam position sensor." Or, the intake cam position sensor. And the black headed one was the exhaust cam position sensor. All 4 sensors are the same basic sensor, but one has a bend to it the other is straight. I figure as an engineer, the shape has to do with fit, accessibility, wire harness routing. Maybe all of those, one of those, or a mixture. Maybe something else.
But what I needed was the straight black one on the driver's side (P1084 bank 2). I bought the following from RockAuto: DELPHI SS10818 {#237316J90B} (Standard Replacement). 23731-6J90B is the Nissan part number. RockAuto called it: "Cam Position Sensor." My point above is, all 4 of them are cam position sensors, so don't get hung up on the name. The code P1084 bank 2, tells you which one, which is the straight one. That sensor was less than $41, plus shipping, it was in the $45 zone. Got to my house in 3 days.
I mainly make this post because the G35driver forums are so helpful, and I want to contribute. Below is the main contribution.
Installation. I removed the intake from the airbox to and including the throttle body. Not bad at all to do that. I then found the green angle sensor easy to get to, but the black one NOT EASY, near impossible to get a wrench on. I needed to remove the black straight one. I went and watched a bunch of youtube videos, and it's amazing the B.S. of bad and wrong information about this … to finally get to a good one. There was one guy, a black guy with really big forearms that made it look easy. My arms, while not as big as his, are big. What he did was stand on the passenger side, reach his left arm between the engine / intake and firewall, and he could put his hand on either sensor. He popped the connector off, and put a socket wrench on the bolt and removed all that blind.
At that point, since I had everything else off, I had my son join me and had him clean and scrub the throttle body (with a toothbrush, throttle body cleaner and paper towels) while I try what the guy did on the video. Holy cow, it was very easy doing it that way. I could have changed that sensor in 15 minutes and not removed ANYTHING. But, since I had removed stuff, I had my son clean it while it was out. I replaced that sensor and when I was done, my son had the throttle body cleaned. It wasn't horrible, but it did need a cleaning.
I bolted it all back together, and … NO ZOOM AND HIGH IDLE. I read about it again. I found out that disconnecting the throttle body (especially when not disconnecting the battery (which I did forget to disconnect it)) puts the ECU in failsafe mode. So, I did the procedure to calibrate the throttle body, I forget what the sequence is called. And then BLAM, SES Light OFF, idles at about 600 rpm, and full power restored! I checked the codes again and they had self cleared.
I hope this long post helps somebody. The G35 is running great! I've done a fair amount to this vehicle since it was purchased. Some repair due to a light collision, replaced the clutch, sent the fuel gauge off for calibration, and replaced this sensor. Probably very little compared to some, but a lot for a vehicle I don't use myself much.
This thread was APPRECIATED!
7milesout
Great post!!
So I’m in the process of replacing the drivers side sensor. Have taken off the bolt and unclipped the wires. The sensor is not coming out though! I’m pulling and twisting but it’s stuck in there. Unfortunately there’s not enough room to get a good grip on it. Is it supposed to come out easy or do you really need to pull on it?
I believe I recall there being a 10 mm bolt holding the sensor in place. Use the same passenger side left handed reach around with a socket wrench. It was not very difficult.
Then the sensor comes right out after bolt removal.
The video posted by 7milesout is a life saver. I was able to replace the Bank 2 sensor blind without removing ANYTHING in 10 minutes. Thanks for a great post and thanks to all for a very helpful discussion.
Big thanks to Dr. Hammer et al. My scan tool reported code P1084. I ordered the delphi equivalent Camshaft Position Sensor - Right part number W0133-2886379 from partsgeek.com to replace the current Nissan part 23731-6J90D. A couple days later the part arrived. Here's how I replaced it: First, I disconnected the negative battery terminal. Next, I was able to reach from the passenger side of the vehicle over in front of the driver side firewall and then use a 10mm wrench to blindly remove the bolt that holds the "Exhaust Valve Timing Control Position Sensor Bank 2" part in place. With the bolt off, the part still has an o-ring that requires some wiggling and pulling to get it out of the block. Removing the part from the socket is tricky if you are not familiar with the connector. I found a helpful video explaining how that particular socket holds the part. I used a pair of channel locks to gently squeeze the clip and it literally "popped" out of the socket. Inserting the new part into the connector and squeezing it together with my hand locked the socket onto the part. I inserted the part into the block and blindly reinstalled the bolt that holds it in place with a 10mm wrench. After reconnecting the negative battery terminal I cleared the diagnostic trouble code. The whole job took about 20 minutes. I drove the car quite a bit today and the DTC has not come back!
Get ready to buy a new sensor more than likely sooner than later. It's common knowledge that our cars don't play nice with aftermarket sensors. Hitachi makes the OEM and that's the part you need. A few here have had long term success with aftermarket but the vast majority haven't, just an FYI for you to be aware of.
Get ready to buy a new sensor more than likely sooner than later. It's common knowledge that our cars don't play nice with aftermarket sensors. Hitachi makes the OEM and that's the part you need. A few here have had long term success with aftermarket but the vast majority haven't, just an FYI for you to be aware of.
The Hitachi OEM part ended up being the way to go. The Delphi part failed about a month after installation. Bought Hitachi part 18387-09200144 from partsgeek.com and have seen no issue in 3 months.
I had my ses light come on a few days ago, so I took it to my mechanic. He said it came back with this code p1084 and it says EXHAUST VALVE TIMING VOLTAGE CIRCUIT BANK 2. WTF does that mean? He checked and found that my car was 3 quarts low on oil, even though it had only been 2300 since my last oil change. He did a new oil change and reset the ecu. Problem fixed right? WRONG. 3 hours later SES light back on. Now i guess I need to take the MREV 2 and spacer off and go to infiniti. Anyone else with this problem or advise? I searched and saw a lot about oil problems and ses codes, but not the one I have.
06-30-2018, 10:30 PM
I read about it again. I found out that disconnecting the throttle body (especially when not disconnecting the battery (which I did forget to disconnect it)) puts the ECU in failsafe mode. So, I did the procedure to calibrate the throttle body, I forget what the sequence is called. And then BLAM, SES Light OFF, idles at about 600 rpm, and full power restored! I checked the codes again and they had self cleared.
replacing sensor and parts you need
Anyone else with this problem or advise? I searched and saw a lot about oil problems and ses codes, but not the one I have.
