How many degrees is each little tick mark on the OEM temp Gauge?

Is going up 1/2 or 3/4 of a tick during hard driving anything to be concerned with?

 

Read this thread;

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...t-too-hot.html

 

The OEM gauge doesn't really start moving past the nominal position until about 230ish. I have a Defi sensor mounted on the coolant hard pipe before the radiator.

Once it starts moving up it's very bad. Air in the system and the temps going up is not as bad as actually overheating due to excessive heat or a blown head gasket.

 

Ok...Yah I just recently had my coolant changed and thermostat changed to a nismo. There could be a small amount of air in the system, but I didn't exhibit the symptoms of the heater problem and the temp rising high like others have. Also it only goes up above center when driving hard, but goes back down a little afterward. I guess I'll do some more bleeding.

I'm confused on the bleeding part though, just undo the screw in the rear on the passenger side when the car is cold, then start the car and run it for a few mins or seconds?

 

The rear bleeder is kinda weird to use. Drive it so it comes to temp, when you shut it down bleed it there while the system is pressurized. Hopefully any air in the system is in that area since it's one of the higher parts of the cooling system.

These make bleeding easier since the rad cap is removed from the equation. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lisle...Z1218822183431

The system needs to expand and contract so it may take a few times to completely do it.

 

Ok cool. It probably just wasn't bled enough. Damn I guess I'll have to be careful when undoing that screw then if its going to be at operating temp. I wish I had time to wait for that funnel thingy.

Edit- sorry, but when you say to temp do you mean operating temperature or just warm the system up a bit? like to 1/4 of the gauge?

 

Hmmmm ok my bleeder valve is stuck. I practically stripped the plastic cross trying to get it open. I noticed at cold though that my coolant resivor was a little over max.

 

I hate ****ing with the coolant system in our cars, after changing it theres always leak or air bubbles

 

Ok **** I cant get the bleeder valve open. The cross is now gone, and i've been trying to use pliers on the edges but its thin...****....what a bitch.

 

Yeah plastic bleeder FTL. Where are you located?

 

Pasadena. Not sure what I'm gonna do about this now. I dont want to use a vice and break it.

 

I'm in OC. You're welcome to use my funnel if you want.

 

the funnel doesn't require that you remove the bleeder valve? how does it work? Does this mean I'll have to drain the coolant again if I use it?

 

Funnel attachs to the radiator in place of the cap. You get the engine to operating temps and hold 2k rpms. The engine moves the coolant around the system, the system expands and will usually get air to the top of the radiator where the funnel is. Bubbles come up and some time big pockets of air. Leaving the funnel during cool down let's the system contract and pull in coolant from the funnel.

 

Awesome thanks. Thanks for the offer for letting me borrow yours, but for 20 something bucks and shipping....its probably just a little bit more as me taking the time to drive back and forth to OC. Its probably a good investment. I'll probably need it again when I change my radiator. I guess I should have waited to change my radiator to change my coolant but I didn't think I was going to do that soon haha.

And for those of you in the Pasadena area....I'll have one soon if you have this problem . Just bought one from amazon.com for 30 including shipping.