Jim Wolf S2 Cams Installed
#20
02-04-2009, 05:24 PM
UTEC with the map switch is very nice and even easier to have if he ever plans to boost it and go past where the osiris can help but for N/A it is overkill.
#21
02-04-2009, 05:42 PM
#23
02-05-2009, 06:32 PM
It was too noisy and was costing me power. I changed things out so hurriedly some people claimed I was lying about changing out my headers to back to back dyno, which I really did do before deciding to sell the cat-back. I'm really starting to think that this car hates exhaust modifications. I may put on the factory y-pipe and redyno to see if it gains anything soon. In the meantime, I have uploaded my best effort at graphing my dyno results. I hope this proves informative. Air/Fuel ratio is a steady 13.6 until I hit 6000 RPM where it becomes 13, sorry for not graphing it. The shops I went to all claim there was nothing to really tune as my cams were not that much more aggressive over stock (correct me if I'm wrong but stock is 238/238 duration .326 lift where the JWT S2 is 256/256 .429 lift) so I have decided to purchase an Osiris tune. I don't plan on going FI. I really, REALLY wish they had told me they lost their old dyno data before the cams were installed, that way I could have had an accurate before/after dyno. As it stands for all I know the car pre-mod could have dynoed at only 190 whp and I've gained a bunch of power.
#24
02-05-2009, 08:33 PM
190? dude wtf, are you pumpin 87 gas with a 5 year old air filter or what?
#25
02-05-2009, 10:16 PM
What's done is done. For years I've been warning people that cams will sacrifice low and midrange power for upper rpm breathability and your car is a classis case. You've lost a lot of power over the powerband and unfortunately, your car is now slower because of it. The reason it's quieter in the lower rpms is because it's not breathing as hard in the lower rpms. If you're going to do cams, you MUST do the following mods to take advantage of the new found power above 5000rpms and the ability of the cams to breath to 7500rpms.
1) Cosworth plenum or spacer with ported lower manifold. I'd really go for the Cosworth piece because it's the best for upper rpm power.
2) Gears. Since you've lost low and midrange power, you need the extra torque multiplication to get thru the lag and get into the meat of the power. 3.7 gears with the AT and 4.X gears with the 6MT. Probably should consider a high stall torque converter as well for more torque multiplication.
3) Rod bolts and valve springs, at least. If you want to be able to use the cams, you've got to rev that VQ35. On an NA motor, there are only two real ways to add HP/TQ. That's either by extending operational rpm or freeing up the intake/exhaust. On these cars, the intake/exhaust are already pretty good and there isn't a lot of power left on the table. Extending operational rpm will require the use of Revup rod bolts and heavy duty valve springs if you plan on revving above 7100rpms and no more than 7500rpms. The rod bolts will offer some safety in not sending those glass rods through the block and the valve springs will keep the valves from floating. If you want to rev above 7500rpms, you'll need rods, head gasket, head bolts, and oil pump to handle it reliabily.
4) ECU flash. You need a raised rev limiter plus some work with regards to ignition and A/F tuning. You need to richen up that fuel mixer slightly and you need that extra rpm.
In the end, this is why I don't recommend cams because IT IS NOT a simple swap in. This isn't an LSX motor that gains 40whp/wtq from a simple cam swap, ECU flash, and rockers. The cams are already decently aggressive in the VQ35 and everything else about the drivetrain is setup to handle the cam size. Change the cam characteristics and you need to spend another $3K+ plus in supporting mods to take your garden variety VQ35 to a heavy breathing VQ35 that makes power to 7500rpms. If you don't do that, you're cammed VQ will get owned by stock VQs. I
It irratates me that JWT doesn't warn buyers of the performance downsides of their cams.
1) Cosworth plenum or spacer with ported lower manifold. I'd really go for the Cosworth piece because it's the best for upper rpm power.
2) Gears. Since you've lost low and midrange power, you need the extra torque multiplication to get thru the lag and get into the meat of the power. 3.7 gears with the AT and 4.X gears with the 6MT. Probably should consider a high stall torque converter as well for more torque multiplication.
3) Rod bolts and valve springs, at least. If you want to be able to use the cams, you've got to rev that VQ35. On an NA motor, there are only two real ways to add HP/TQ. That's either by extending operational rpm or freeing up the intake/exhaust. On these cars, the intake/exhaust are already pretty good and there isn't a lot of power left on the table. Extending operational rpm will require the use of Revup rod bolts and heavy duty valve springs if you plan on revving above 7100rpms and no more than 7500rpms. The rod bolts will offer some safety in not sending those glass rods through the block and the valve springs will keep the valves from floating. If you want to rev above 7500rpms, you'll need rods, head gasket, head bolts, and oil pump to handle it reliabily.
4) ECU flash. You need a raised rev limiter plus some work with regards to ignition and A/F tuning. You need to richen up that fuel mixer slightly and you need that extra rpm.
In the end, this is why I don't recommend cams because IT IS NOT a simple swap in. This isn't an LSX motor that gains 40whp/wtq from a simple cam swap, ECU flash, and rockers. The cams are already decently aggressive in the VQ35 and everything else about the drivetrain is setup to handle the cam size. Change the cam characteristics and you need to spend another $3K+ plus in supporting mods to take your garden variety VQ35 to a heavy breathing VQ35 that makes power to 7500rpms. If you don't do that, you're cammed VQ will get owned by stock VQs. I
It irratates me that JWT doesn't warn buyers of the performance downsides of their cams.
#26
02-07-2009, 12:16 AM
I just got back from Houston Raceway Park. My best run of the night was a quarter mile time of 13.7 seconds at 105 mph. I'll attribute this to either a low dyno showing or I've finally learned to stage/launch my car correctly and I actually had no real gains from this modification. Before I went I had the Exhaust Depot Y-Pipe removed and my OEM Y-pipe bolted back in for a final dyno showing of 248 whp and 231 wtq. Whatever the case, DaveB is right what's done is done there's no chance I'm going to shell out money and waste time having the shop swap back in my factory camshafts/replace with another brand of camshafts. They're all pretty tired of seeing me already and I'll bet this board is too! I'll wait for my Osiris and eTune and see how things go from there.
#27
02-07-2009, 11:34 AM
I have the same cams... it really helps at the track - top end is much increased! I've reeled in cars that I probably would not have caught when I had stock cams.
I didn’t suffer low end - but I've done a few other things to consciously control that... in fact my low-mid (especially mid) trq increased when I was done with cams/headers and re-tune)...
But as you have realized, this isn’t a mod that everyone will consider - cost/benefit just doesn’t warrant it for most ppl... honestly I wouldn’t suggest it. Not because it doesn’t show gains, but because the gains are worth the expense.
But when you do it right, you will beat most other NA VQs, even the HRs & 37s (until they start dumping sh!tloads of $$$$ in their engines).
I didn’t suffer low end - but I've done a few other things to consciously control that... in fact my low-mid (especially mid) trq increased when I was done with cams/headers and re-tune)...
But as you have realized, this isn’t a mod that everyone will consider - cost/benefit just doesn’t warrant it for most ppl... honestly I wouldn’t suggest it. Not because it doesn’t show gains, but because the gains are worth the expense.
But when you do it right, you will beat most other NA VQs, even the HRs & 37s (until they start dumping sh!tloads of $$$$ in their engines).
#28
02-07-2009, 01:14 PM
I just got back from Houston Raceway Park. My best run of the night was a quarter mile time of 13.7 seconds at 105 mph. I'll attribute this to either a low dyno showing or I've finally learned to stage/launch my car correctly and I actually had no real gains from this modification. Before I went I had the Exhaust Depot Y-Pipe removed and my OEM Y-pipe bolted back in for a final dyno showing of 248 whp and 231 wtq. Whatever the case, DaveB is right what's done is done there's no chance I'm going to shell out money and waste time having the shop swap back in my factory camshafts/replace with another brand of camshafts. They're all pretty tired of seeing me already and I'll bet this board is too! I'll wait for my Osiris and eTune and see how things go from there.
A 13.7@105mph with an NA automatic? What were your times before? I know HRP is a very quick track because my 94 Z28 was about .3 and 2mph quicker there than any of the Kansas City tracks I've raced at, BUT if your car is naturally aspirated and is pulling 13.7s at a whopping 105mph, keep the cams, get a tune, Cosworth plenum, DRs, and consider a higher stall torque converter. That should propel you into at last the 13.4@106ish range. That is impressive.
You should also source an HR y-pipe. You'll love it and it will restore some low and midrange punch.
#29
02-07-2009, 05:54 PM
