this only happens while I'm driving and i push the clutch in until i come to a complete stop

http://youtu.be/VqTSD2biasU

 

How did you fix this problem? Mines been doing this for awhile. Wheel bearing?

 

Don't push the clutch in until your revs drop to about 1500....


Also, had anything to do with the cooling system recently? that kind of thing can be linked with an airlock.

Also, you've got the SES light on, what's the code? something's wrong.

 

Some of them are wheel bearings, some are the axle TSB, have a search for it, it's on the web in various places and in the forums too.

 

I'm having problems with a low/ fluctuating idle now myself. Debating on taking it to the dealer but thought I'd ask the think tank guys first just in case.

Here is the short version. I drive the G home from work one night, go out the next morning to start the car and what sounded to me to be the starter solenoid went out. I hear it trying but nothing happening. I figure I have 130k on it so might as well get a new starter too. I order a new starter (Denso), wait a week and then install it. Meanwhile, I had the battery disconnected completely from the weekend before when I removed the old starter. I go to start my girl up with the new starter and again...same thing I called in some back-up to help me diagnose the issue and it turns out the car was flooded...didn't know they would do that. However, after checking the keys, checking for spark, then spraying some carb cleaner in the TB (at a distance) while attempting to start...she woke up! This guy mainly works on Nissans and Subaru's told me to always do my resets on the car if you have had the battery off for an extended period. I reset the ECU...seemed to take (no CEL). Did the close and open TB valve learning processes (which I have a few questions about but I will get to later). Trying the Idle Air Volume learning and I just can't seem to get this idle right. I have done these steps before when I had cleaned my TB and installed a plenum spacer....took me about an hour to get it right, but I DID get it! lol.

I have a few questions for you guys. One is with the steps of reset. On the Accelerator Release Position learning...Turn ignition on for 2secs then off...wait 10secs....back on for 2secs...then off for 10secs....is there something after that? Why even put the last "off for 10secs...why not just off? The next one is about the Trottle Close Position Learning. It says to turn ignition on...then off...wait 10 secs? Is there a time in between the "on" and "off"...and again why the wait 10secs off as a last step? My last and most cumbersome reset...the Idle Air Volume Re-learning. What I learned before is that in the last steps...when you are waiting on the blinking CEL to stop blinking....you have 3 secs to let off the gas pedal AND start the car...is this correct? The last step says to Rev the engine a few times after 20 secs...is this just a check to make sure it doesn't studder or something? Also, step one and two of this process say do the Accelerator Release process and then do the Throttle Valve Close process. If I felt that the Idle Air Volume didn't take...wasn't executed correctly, do I still need to do steps 1 and 2 again? Shouldn't it already have learned that if done right?

Needless to say, I have tried the Idle Air Volume process several times and it just doesn't seem to stay at spec....to low. Goes about 15-20 sec then starts to bounce between 1k and 500rpms...when steady...about 550...maybe 600 but she never dies (love this car!). Runs great when driving though...no problem.

Should I just take it to the dealer and pay them $75 to reset all of these? (I heard this is about the going rate) By the way, it seems that my trottle response seems better now...faster (not as much of a delay from when I push the pedal). This is another reason why I think the ECU reset worked....am I just a kid with new shoes?

And yes...that is the short version lol. I fixed a few other issues that were notices while under the car. Just so no one asks....a belt and my stabilizer links.

Any suggestions to my problem....I tried to be as informative as possible...thanks for taking the time to read.

 

#1) these ECUs are adaptive - so if you reset the ECU you are clearing out the tables and your current driving style will be more accurately reflected in the ECU tables.

#2) Don't pay the dealer what you can do yourself, if you can avoid it. Are you using a stop watch to time these steps out properly? If not, I highly recommend it because timing is critical for accuracy. I use a video from my phone, or else the built in timer. Once you learn it this way it is hard to not get it right.

#3) If your car refuses to hold the idle rpm properly it could be due to a) improper procedure b) vacuum leak c) TB that is bad.

Its not likely to be a bad TB - that normally kick a "high idle" code.

When you do the idle air volume learning procedure make sure you have the car at normal operating temperature AND once you have started the car and are letting it idle give it at least 30 seconds to LEARN

 

yes Nissan fixes all the infiniti because it is a nissan