Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction Have Technical Questions or Done Modifications to the G35? Find out the answer in here! (View All Posts)

want to make 20+ hp

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  #16  
Old 10-11-2009, 01:46 PM
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if you are going to get a higher rev tq converter. i hope you dont plan on driving it on the street very much. yea people are going to say there is nothing wrong with driving it on the street which there right. its jst very very anoying and you will go through gas a lot quicker. and no im not pulling this out of my ***. i have done this on my previus car.
to get better throttle response and better launches check out the sprint booster. there area a couple threads on it.
hope that helps
 
  #17  
Old 10-11-2009, 02:38 PM
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It's gonna be a daily driver, Gas mileage ain't too big a deal for me, but I'll def look into this Sprint booster you speak of.
 
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Old 10-15-2009, 10:08 AM
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Info from the ocd guy

Not trying to be a dick or anything, I have Ocd and am out of work and on disability, which basically means I'm pissing my money away on my car and spend hours if not days researching parts for my 05x. I literally have notebooks filled with lists of web pages where i can get mods and how much power is to be expected of each one so I am sorry to argue but 20hp more is a cake walk. our cars respond very well to increased breathing and exhaust mods so you could start there, (.25" plenum, pop charger, mid pipe, and high flow muffler should be good for 20+.)

300whp even on my 05 G35x is possible naturally aspirated. I have 2 words for you all "stroker kit" 4.15 liter...

http://www.jscspeed.com/350z/engine/bc_stroker.htm

(yeah I know its not cheap but neither are turbo's or superchargers) probably looking at 7000 all said and done.

Anything is possible I know a few of you guys are pulling close to 700hp with TT's and SC's but this stroker can take up to 1200hp and I'd also like to add that Top Secret is showing a LOT of interest in our cars now because the GTR is so pent up you really can't do a whole lot to them. Not to mention that they are limited by F'ing satalites in Japan to 75mph everywhere but on race tracks...(can't wait till their intake is available and the individual throttle bodies are a work of art) Some of you probably saw the article in Import Tuner this past month with the R34 vrs the GTR. the GTR was making what 600hp? the 34 was pulling close to 1000. Nissan isn't stupid, they knew our car would be popular in America because it IS a skyline we can afford even if it doesn't say it. and they new guys like us would want to make them insanely powerful. They get those 900hp plus numbers on r34-33's the same way we can, more displacement, more air, faster exhaust venting...turbo's and super chargers are great and I'm glad that there are so many of you out there i can learn from so I'm just sharing what I've learned through my experience working in shops and being an engineer and 3d computer modeler.

Hope this gives you some idea's...It that doesn't do it for you Zex make a 30-90hp NOS kit...
 
  #19  
Old 10-15-2009, 06:33 PM
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what have you done to your car so far? youre not being a dick by leading me in the right direction either, by the way. im happy ppl like u are out there to say "well guess wat, 20 hp is as easy as 1,2,3, 700 hp might take more steps, but its possible"

that bore kit is sexy, i just dont have 7g's to drop on the car atm. damn recession. does the kit itself provide gains? seems like going from 3.5l to 4.15l would, but the website didnt specify.
 
  #20  
Old 10-16-2009, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by AEROG35
I was talking TQ @ crank/engine, not what it puts down to the wheels and I recommended plenum spacer / intake / exhaust to answer the OP original question, the the OP came back and clarified it being 20hp to the engine - so my answer is accurate based on his initial question. I did not go by the vendors listed gains but with those 3 mods for less then $1200 - you will have 20-25hp / torque easily.

Torque is force x distance (ft-lb). It's what turns the crankshaft.
Horsepower is torque x time (torque x rpm ÷ 5252)
These are the exact mods I was looking at buying myself. What do install charges usually run? I have yet to call around for shops in my area (north FL)
 
  #21  
Old 10-16-2009, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 05 DG Sedan
These are the exact mods I was looking at buying myself. What do install charges usually run? I have yet to call around for shops in my area (north FL)
You can easily install the plenum spacer and intake yourself with some simple hand tools. There are instructions and DIY's you can find here and on google.

I got my exhaust put on at a Meineke for $90 but I went during off hours so it was basically me and the mechanic, so the whole time I made small talk and watched him like a hawk to make sure he didn't **** anything up. Been almost a year and have had no problems so far.
 
  #22  
Old 10-16-2009, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by tragedycat
You can easily install the plenum spacer and intake yourself with some simple hand tools. There are instructions and DIY's you can find here and on google.

I got my exhaust put on at a Meineke for $90 but I went during off hours so it was basically me and the mechanic, so the whole time I made small talk and watched him like a hawk to make sure he didn't **** anything up. Been almost a year and have had no problems so far.
Nice. I looked at the spacer install...talking myself into trying it to save some cash.
 
  #23  
Old 10-16-2009, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by AEROG35
I was talking TQ @ crank/engine, not what it puts down to the wheels and I recommended plenum spacer / intake / exhaust to answer the OP original question, the the OP came back and clarified it being 20hp to the engine - so my answer is accurate based on his initial question. I did not go by the vendors listed gains but with those 3 mods for less then $1200 - you will have 20-25hp / torque easily.

Torque is force x distance (ft-lb). It's what turns the crankshaft.
Horsepower is torque x time (torque x rpm ÷ 5252)
Or to make perfectly clear HP = (torque x rpm) / 5252

Assuming 300 as the value for torque and 5252 rpm:

HP = 300 x 5252 = 1575600

HP = 1575600/5252

HP = 300

The reason I stated this is that some spreadsheets will give errors unless the order is forced.

What is important in my mind is not getting 20 more horsepower but get 20 more horsepower in the area desired. Often times many get what looks good on paper but many of us don't normally drive at 5000 rpms all day long. Getting more low end torque is often more important to certain drives so basically I would look at driving habits and then look at the mods that match the driving habits. Some mods that many use will actually yield lower values in the desired rpm ranges.
 
  #24  
Old 10-16-2009, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by G15
^well i know ill need forced induction to get 300 hp to the wheels (i have an 04, engine rated at 280, dont know what it is to the wheels, but its significantly less) so if i could just make 20 hp to the engine, that would be fine. its mostly for cost. i cant spend 30k on a whole FI set up
The first thing I would do is analyze your driving habits. This will include your MPH and RPMs. For example a good mod may be simply a change in rear end ratio to give you more of what is desired based on your driving habits. it could be a bad mod for others.

From what I have read I would go for a spacer as a first mod for your car to improve what you already have.

Not knowing the condition of the engine the next mod may simply be a restore of some simple items that may have taken your 280 to some lower value. Most figures for mods I have seen are based on 'like new' conditions. Because of wear or falling out of specs it is possible to get a negative out of what could be a beneficial mod.

Now go out and match what is desired to what is available.

One type of mod I would not do is anything that may affect the balance of the engine (ie pulleys, light weight clutches or flywheels, etc.) This isn't based on the fact you may not get a benefit in HP or Torque in your desired area but that it may well affect the reliability of an engine. A shaft for example will be affected by harmonic changes due to a light weight pulley. All shafts have critical rpms that you do not want to operate in for extended periods of time.

This needs to be done carefully to ensure that these changes in the rpm ranges that the car is driven in do not induce stresses on the engine due to a change in a critical. The same goes for changes on the other end. These changes can be done for sure and could end up in the benefit range but this is difficult for the average Joe Blow to get a good handle on. Most will do little for static gains but will possible help with spool up times.

A popular item is an under drive pulley (not to be confused with light weight). This will almost without fail give a little bit extra to the wheels due to less parasitic loadings to the engine, but may compromise your cooling or charging circuits depending on rpm and loading on the device driven. A reasonably cheap mod, just be a little careful to properly look at what effects it may have for 'you'.
 
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