I would say that dyno reads a tad high... lol you baselines 280 before the tune? Picking up 14hp in a tune is not impossible.

 

^what the hell kind of dyno is that? That thing is out to lunch! These cars DO NOT make 280hp stock. Get you car dyno'd on a real dyno and you'll see you're probably closer to 260.

Mustang; do we ever talk about crank power on here lol

Jotsuka; I like you based on your ability to search, high five.

AZt108;

OP; The best way to do this is going to be a Procharger, stillen stage 1 or 2. Basically just supercharge it. Turbos are nice but SC is a more reliable source of power and usually a cheaper install, not to mention most of the SC kits them self are cheaper to begin with.

 

stroker kit, otherwise you will probably reach 270 max with just bolt ons.

Just go supercharger, it will be a lot easier and last longer on your auto.

 

Check out this mod list from my350z.com. He says he put down 315whp and his internals are stock.

City, State which Dyno occured : Toronto, Canada
Approx weather condidtions : Multiple Occasions all with varying weather however with the same power output.
Baseline Dyno : None.
Dyno after your mods : 315whp @ 6200rpm/279ft-lbs @ 5250rpm
Type of Dyno : Dynapack correctly calibrated (stock non-revup Z dynos 210whp)
Year : 2003
Model : 350z
Motor : Non Revup
Engine Oil : Castrol EDGE 0w-40
Plugs : Stock
Transmission : 6spd
Clutch : Tilton Carbon Tripple
Flywheel : Tilton Steel
Short Shifter : Stock
Final Drive Gear Set : Stock
Rear Diff : Nismo 1.5way
Engine Internals : Bone Stock
Heads : Bone Stock w/ Nismo R-Tune Cams
Intake Manifold : Stock Upper
Lower Intake Manifold : Stock Non-Revup
Intake Manifold Spacer : Skunk2 + Motordyne 5/16"
Throttle Body : 72mm bored TB
Intake : Injen with Maf still in place
Headers : SGM 2 Step Longtubes
Cats : None
Exhaust : SGM 3.5" Single
Fuel System : Aftermarket Return w/ stock injectors @ 60psi
ECU : Motec M800
Fuel used on Dyno : Sunoco 94 Octane Pump
Air Fuel Ratio: 13.1-13.3:1 as measured with BOSCH Widebands on both banks
Ignition Advance: 31 degrees at peak RPM - 28 degrees at peak TQ
Cam Timing: 40 @ 4000 - 35 @ 4500 - 34 @ 5500 - 24 @ 6000 - 18 @ 6500 - 10 @ 7000 - 2 @ 7500
Other: Unorthadox Crank pulley and accessory pulleys. No A/C compressor. Solid engine mounts.

 

That may be true but this is the kicker:
SGM 2 Step Longtubes

Completely obnoxious to have on a street driven car. Not realistic for 99% of us here that don't want anybody within 5 miles of us to know we're driving.

To the OP, your best bet would be to go FI. Personally I'm happy with ~315whp which is a safe, usable, manageable amount. I know the Stillen SC will get you just about around that. A lot of people trash talk the Stillen because it's not a good bang for the buck though, so YMMV.

 

The obnoxious part isn't the longtubes themselves but rather the muffler-less exhaust.

 

So you're saying if I paired the longtubes up to a more standard aftermarket exhaust that it wouldn't be ridiculously loud?

 

^don't forget his $1600 cams.... well lets add up his costs there.... OH could have been supercharged making 350+hp for the money he's got into it.

He's local to me and I dunno who he is. Wheres the dyno sheet?

 

I'm working on my NA build right now... and while I don't know how close it'll come to 300whp when it's completed, I can tell you that trying to hit 300 NA is damn expensive.

 

Zack, reason for not just going FI?

 

Most likely not. Longtube Headers DO tend to make exhausts louder due to reduced restriction, but in the end an exhausts muffler will be the deciding factor in general exhaust loudness.

His cams may have cost $1600, but you could probably do just as good with $1000-$1200 Crowers or equivalent.

I'm thinking about building my car on a budget build to see how close to 300whp I can get before I can say it's not worth it. Part of my list include Ebay exhausts and ebay longtube headers...we'll see how well those flow. I'm at 240whp right now so I have 60whp to go...yikes!

 

Definitely possible but definitely hard.

 

I don't get what's so magic about 300whp...my goal has always been to get the car as quick as possible for the money I have to spend. I'm comfortable knowing that my little car is quicker than, what?, 80% of the cars I meet on the road?

But then, I haven't tracked my car yet.

 

Yep, the Nismos are actually a pretty toned down cam set up. Other companies provide way bigger gains.... but mainly for FI.

 

My main reason for going NA is for reliability on the track.

For the street, throwing on a supercharger or low boosting turbo setup can be pretty reliable. For the track though, I think I'd have some problems... and even with a built block to go with the FI, there's no guarantee that you won't have problems. Now that isn't to say that I wouldn't love to have an FI setup, unfortunately at this time I wouldn't be able to afford to repair an FI setup if something catastrophic occurred.

I have a spare block that is being built for the NA build... and I'm planning on building my existing block for FI once the we swap engines out. It's been surprising to see how much it costs to build one of these motors up!