Do you have an ongoing build thread?

I know BBS350z has his stripped Z that's going to be a track dedicated N/A car. He has a 500something hp street Z and a G sedan for DD. ****in guy lol

Check out his....unbuild on my350.

Do you plan on stripping the car? is it a G or a Z?

 

I 300rwhp is one of those things that if you have to ask, you are going to have a pretty difficult time actually achieving it.

 

I have a G - it's completely gutted, seam welded, and a cage is in the works. I still daily it, but by the time it's a full dedicated track car I'll have something else to daily. I have a thread that shows some of the progress, but I'll probably start a build thread up when it's all finished.

 

Cool, can't wait to see it all!

Back to OPs question though ahah.

 

I find it amazing how people like you, ShanesG, etc. still use your cars to daily drive.

 

This is a dynapack dyno. Yes they read higher but I don't care. The OP wanted to know about 300crank and our car does that. If HP was a standard then all dynos would probably read wrong!

Certain items are worth doing. In this case I am pointing out the easy hp is in an exhaust and a tune. I am not going to toss any more money for an extra 3hp.

FYI, all dynos are real unless you are talking about gtec meters I will stick to dynapack because it is the right type of dyno to tune on. I don't want to tune my car on a roller dyno to find that the load was enough to reproduce the limits of the car on the street.

 

He didn't ask about power at the crank. He asked about power. Power is the power to the wheels, people that calculate their power at the crank are guys in civics trying to hit 200hp.

No offense to anyone that might take it, but dynapacks are crap. Your reading is off.

 

I would think going boosted you tend to run into more problems, having a built motor and staying NA trying to achieve 300whp you dont run into that many problems. It would be awesome to have a 300whp NA setup not having to wait for boost to build but to always have all that power when stepping on the gas pedal.

 

Here is the Florida G Club Presidents G35 coupe.

As you can see wasnt easy reaching this:






https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...g35-coupe.html

 

OK, I'd have to say that up to 20hp gains from a tune is very possible if you have the right bolt-ons or mods to go with it. but that dyno does seem more than a bit high...

 

4DGS That Z is from a shop call SG motorsports ive read the thread about it over on my350z and im sure there is a dyno sheet too.

 

Would you like to explain why dynapacks are crap? I would like to hear why you think this.

 

^^^
I want to know it too.

Wouldn't reading directly from the hubs be better than reading from the tires?

 

I trust a roller dyno, majority of cars dyno'd are done on them. Dynapacks have been proven to be off in the past.

That's just my opinion, not really to say they are a lesser quality. If you want to get high reads, dynapack ftw. If you want a legit reading of what your car is actually putting to the ground. You need something on rollers.

Hyunkoon; you would think that, but it really doesn't matter how fast the hub spins, it's how fast the wheels turn on a surface.

Again IMHO

 

No offense, but you're an idiot when it comes to knowledge about dyno's then.

EVERY DYNO can bet set to show you big numbers. Dynopacks can bet set to show you low numbers.

When it comes to tuning the majority of good tuners will use a dynopack or mustang dyno. There is a reason it is 4x more expensive than the dynojet.

We all know that Church's dyno reads high but he does a great job tuning. That is the important thing. That is what a dynopack will allow.